Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first unimpeded Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meet for dinner at the Backbencher public bar at 6.30 and on to Turnbull House at 7.30 pm for a catch up. Meetings and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea and coffee afterwards.

NZAC Wellington Section members Zac Orme and Kirsty Trotter, hanging around waiting for their next issue of vertiGO!

Upcoming Section Nights

Monday October 4th 2004: Dave Vass talks about Patagonia. Can't wait!

Section trips news

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter @nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories.

Pleasant (Objectiveless) Days at Ruapehu

Having recently moved back to the North Island after being in the South for a few years I was curious to see what climbing and tramping opportunities were present on Ruapehu. On this trip I discovered that one of its most endearing features is the presence of routes and objectives for alpinists and trampers of all abilities.

On Saturday morning Garth, Cat, Kris, Rachael, Simon and I decided on an objective (even though we didn't call it that) to Glacier Knob. Starting up the ridge from the Manawatu Ski Club Lodge, a moderate climb alongside the ski field reaching steeper slopes with some nice firm snow higher up. The weather got a bit claggy occasionally but on the whole it remained pleasant with clear blue sky, opening up marvellous views of the Plateau down below us once we got up to the tops at lunch time. Descended after lunch in plenty of time to take advantage of hospitality offered at Manawatu Ski Lodge (and beers from Kris).

Sunday morning we enthusiastically decided to take the chair lifts up to the Pinnacles area to have a climb around. Great weather and nice conditions for some front pointing. Opportunities for those of us wanting to have a general "try" as well as some more challenging slopes.

Headed back down at lunchtime, some refreshment en route and ready to leave for the trip home around 2pm. Very pleasant and enjoyable weekend. Future visits to explore more of what Ruapehu has to offer definitely planned.

Trip participants: Garth London, Angie London, Simon Romanos, Inez Romanos, Kris Perrson, Kat Robinson, Craig Robinson, Rachael Schmidt, Vanessa Johnson.

Vanessa Johnson

Pinnacles

On the weekend of 24/25 July, David Jewell, Yibai He and Mike Peat went ice climbing at the Pinnacles. On Saturday we focussed on the Grand Pinnacle area, "Chiming Bells" was climbed with us leading a pitch each of this classic 3 pitch climb. The short ice pillar on the 3rd pitch had not formed at all and the overhang where this normally forms had to be turned by climbing the rock to the right. Neither of the other classics, "Gorilla" or "Tequila Sunrise" had formed at all. We spent Sunday at Pink Floyd Buttress where better conditions were found, though it was still rather thin. We climbed "Delicate Sound of Thunder" and "Comfortably Numb" with leads being shared by Yibai and Mike, while David spent the day riding the middle of the rope on account of a nasty split in his crampon strap. To round off an enjoyable weekend we climbed the Knoll Ridge café waterfall on the way home.

Mike Peat

Mitre via Tufa Spur

On the weekend of 31st July - 1st August, David Eaton, Sam Newton, Tom Wilson, Yibai He and Mike Peat headed into the remote south eastern side of Mt. Ruapehu. After stopping in Taihape for the customary espresso, we headed into the Karioi Forest in two 4WD vehicles on Friday night. The last couple of kilometres of the drive was very rough going over tussock and alpine scrub to the bush edge where we camped beside the vehicles.

We had about 5cm of new snow overnight, and it continued to snow all day as we made our way up the 7km long Tufa Spur through ever deepening snow. About midday we found a comfortable wind scoop below point 2096 where we decided to luncheon and then dig a snow cave. Snow conditions for caving were excellent and within 3hrs we had excavated luxurious accommodations. The remainder of Saturday revolved principally around eating and melting snow for numerous brews.

We made an alpine start on Sunday getting away from the cave just before daybreak with a full moon to guide our way. Dawn came perfect, calm and clear as we cramponed across the broad saddle to the toe of the east ridge of Mitre. The Wahianoa and Whangaehu gorges on either side of the ridge were still dark and forbidding, but our ridge rose steeply before us bathed in the peachy glow of the rising sun. The summit 500m above beckoned, but three tricky looking steps and a couple of gendarmes in the lower section of the ridge barred our way to the easier ground above. Heavy rain during the week had stabilised the snow-pack, and a good overnight freeze ensured perfect cramponing conditions so we elected to climb un-roped. We discovered the route as we climbed, turning each of the difficulties by traversing out onto the faces on either side of the ridge and up exposed 45deg gullies. The crux was a 10m step at about 60deg. We celebrated the summit with the usual handshakes and photos, had a quick morning tea and then set off down before conditions warmed up. The descent went smoothly, with just one abseil required at the crux and by lunch we were back at our cave. Our grotto was still in the icy shade of a bluff which encouraged a brief lunch before packing and heading down.

After eighteen years of mountaineering on Ruapehu and seven years thinking about the Tufa Spur, thanks to the rest of the team for making the climb so memorable when at last we got up Ruapehu's best ridge.

Photos

Mike Peat

Taranaki Alpine Club 75th Jubilee

The Taranaki Alpine Club's 75th Jubilee is now being planned for Queens Birthday weekend (4th & 5th June 2005) and will be held in New Plymouth. The theme of the reunion will be Trips-Outings-Events.

If you have any photographs or slides that you would like to contribute for inclusion at the celebrations please contact:

John Jordan
Convener 75th Jubilee Committee
254 Johns Rd, RD8, Inglewood, New Zealand
phone/fax 06 7624752
email jd.jordan@xtra.co.nz

Any material will be returned as soon as it has been scanned. For anyone wishing to join in the celebrations please contact John Jordan. We look forward to your company.

Greg Hall
Taranaki Alpine Club

Hart on Ice!

Thanks to Adventure Consultants and the Distahgil Sar Fund I spent a week in August in Wye Creek. This valley runs south from Single Cone on the Remarkables and provides some excellent ice through July and August. The Adventure Consultants course is based at around 1400m giving a 15-30 minute snowshoe wander to various ice cliffs. The first day was fly in and set up camp, with a full afternoon looking at body technique and getting used to the steep ice. (Lesson 1 - never stand under large icicles dripping with water and not be grounded).

Tuesday saw the first of the storms come through bringing high winds and starting the process of de-stabilising the surrounding slopes. Out came the transceivers and an hour was spent playing hunt the buried treasure (Lesson 2 - always double check before burying a transceiver that it is on!)

A windy Wednesday looked a worry and crossing unstable snow was no fun, but we got out and spent a full day looking at placing ice screws and practicing leading on ground from WI2/3 to WI4. Some necky leads from the Aussie contingent and many wobbles placing screws gave a great day out. (Lesson 3 - express screws are the business, as are the new Charlet Poser technical crampons).

Thursday was a true write off, a metre of wind blown snow nearly buried the camp resulting in a 4am digout to keep us safe. Friday improved slightly with a snow show escape down valley. This is a very pleasant walk and brought us out at Lake Wakatipu in the sun to await the taxi back to Heliworks. This was the day the big avalanche came off Treble Cone so we were more than pleased to be out. If anyone wants to know more about the Adventure Consultants course or Wye Creek then contact me at sh@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Steve Hart

AIC 2004 - THE PROGRESS SO FAR

AIC 2004 took off with a bang and a roar with the instructors' weekend at Tukino in early July. The bang was literal as part of the bumper was separated from the Budget Van as Alan 'Rally Driver' Lowrie piloted us back to the Desert Rd on Sunday afternoon. All up it had taken just over 3 hours to get from the Desert Alpine Lodge to the Desert Road due to large amounts of the white cold stuff. All instructors however proved their shoveling skills and with the help of the bulldozer we were soon mobile again.

A few weeks later and we were back, this time a group of 35 people. Unfortunately Marmaduke is no longer, so this time we had a 4wd bus to transport us up the mountain. Chaos reigned for a while as those on the bus were turfed off about 30 minutes walk from the lodge and had to deal with extra packs and attaching hardware in a howling cold wind. Vehicles were passed abandoned at various stages along the road, depending on how far they had managed to get. Fruitcake and hot drinks at the lodge and then bed followed at 2am. Conditions on the mountain improved over the weekend and all groups had plenty of time outside plugging away in soft deep snow (some of us even found ice! Ed.) if they weren't recovering from a late night of slide shows and movies.

Onto weekend 2 of the course and all were prepared to once again be turfed out of the bus 30 minutes walk away from the lodge. This time however the walk seemed shorter or maybe we were just better prepared? Weather and conditions on the mountain still hadn't come to the party with many groups electing to begin lessons inside. Some that ventured out early observed
first hand the Wall avalanching, the rest viewing the scene from the warmth of the lodge - a great learning moment. With the lack of safe slopes to practice on groups were roping up for glacier travel and pitch climbing along the flat slopes around the lodges. With snow safety being one of the themes for the weekend we were treated to Bruce McGregor's account of being caught in an avalanche over corned beef and fruit crumble with jelly. Wrap up comment of the weekend was: "What many people failed to realise was Don H was actually creating lateral moraine not porridge and bearing that in mind he did an excellent job."

As this newsletter goes to print weekend 3 will be taking place on the slopes of Mt Taranaki where all are praying for fine weather and hard snow.

Turn up to the Short Talks at Septembers Section Night for the details....

Caroline Duggan

Wellington NZAC at the Junior World Champs!

As you receive this in your letterbox, young Wellington section members Kirsty Trotter and Zac Orme will be packing their bags to go to the Junior World Sportclimbing Championship in Edinborough, Scotland. This will be Kirsty's third, and Zac's second World Champs, and each has had to raise thousands of dollars each year to make the trip. Previous competitions have been in France (2002) and Bulgaria (2003).

Regular winners of the fortnightly HangDog Bouldering Series comps, the pair have also featured in their respective catagories in the National Sportclimbing Series. Zac has won the Under 18 males, and Kirsty it set to come second in the Open Womens, with NZ National Team Coach Emma Hawke cranking to take first place.

The New Zealand Sport Climbing Federation are sending a team of 8 to Scotland. First stop on the trip is Sydney, to compete in the Australian National Championship, then its to Zurich, Switzerland for two weeks training, before heading over to Edinborough for the main event. Next year the junior worlds are to be held in China, and being rather closer to home, this will be a great chance for the New Zealand team.

Kirsty and Zac would like to thank everyone who has helped them make it to the World Champs. So if you came along to one of the Boulder Blast competitions, bought some coffee or yummy food at a comp, or made a donation in one of the boxes in outdoor shops then that's you! Thank you!

Many thanks also to the NZAC Wellington Section for making a contribution towards getting Zac and Kirsty to Edinborough.

Merewyn Ellis

New Zealand Home of Mountaineering

On 28 July 2004, members of the Committee as well as other section and Club members, attended Parliament for the Wellington launch of the New Zealand Home of Mountaineering. The Home of Mountaineering is a great initiative by the National Office to create a permanent home for the New Zealand Alpine Club, which will include the housing of historic documents, journals and climbing memorabilia as well as provide a permanent base for the Club.

Our National Pres, Dave Bamford launched the initiative in Wellington, along with none other than our esteemed PM, the Right Hon. Helen Clark. Dave and Nigel Roberts (Wellington Pres) both paid tribute to how privileged, and probably unique, we are as Kiwis to have as our PM a person as into the mountains and outdoors as Ms Clark is. In fact, we discovered she was off to ski in the Two Thumbs Range the following week!

Ms Clark endorsed the proposal wholeheartedly and was extremely encouraging of the role the Alpine Club plays in New Zealand, including with supporting and encouraging young climbers.

If you want to hear more about the initiative, come along to September Short Talks or contact Dave Bamford on db@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Rock Top Technique Course

We will banish the gorilla and release the inner ballerina in all of you! Or at least teach the gorilla how to climb more efficiently…

The Wellington Section is offering a course on rock climbing technique.

The course will cover basic movement. Good climbing technique helps you climb longer and/or climb harder with what you've got. You will gain an understanding of your body and develop your spatial awareness.

Whether to improve your indoor climbing, route climbing, or bouldering, all are welcome.

Content

The course includes four evening sessions, and one weekend day at Baring Head. The course covers climbing technique, including the basic traverse, inlines, diagonals, slab climbing and chimney/bridging technique, training games, spotting, and more.

WHEN: Tues 7th, 14 h, 21st & 28th Sept
WHAT: Climbing Technique
WHERE: Ferg's Rock 'N' Kayak, Queens Wharf
TIME: 6pm- 9pm

WHEN: Sat Oct 2nd or Sun Oct 3rd
WHAT: Bouldering/Real Rock
WHERE: Baring Head

COST: $70

The course is open to all New Zealand Alpine Club and Women Climbing members.To register, or if you have any questions, call Mike or Scott on 04 380 0913, or email Mike on mob @nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Committee Bakes for the Good of All Climbers - Dough Flying!

From the round table of your hard working committee...

The ink has flowed freely as the Wellington Section has made or agreed to make or investigate the following major grants and purchases:

1. The purchase of a new Slide Projector to the value of $2,500
2. Investigate the purchase of a data projector up to the value of $3,000
3. Purchase a NZAC Banner
4. The grant of $2,000 to the Southland Section Homer Hut Upgrade
5. A $3,000 grant to the Home of Mountaineering Fund and an interest free loan of $5,000 for 5 years.

All hail the most excellent committee! (No hugs this month though, thanks.)

And here are the club trips ....

Wellington Section Trips - Trips are a key part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to Michele Domaneschi or Rachel Depree (trips @nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)

Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going.

See you in the hills!

Trips for the Calendar for the rest of 2004…

Check out the proposed and planned new list for 2004. We need trip organisers to put their hands up for what are bound to be outstanding adventures. There's something for everyone in here with a mix of snow, rock and even a spot of ski touring.

Proposed… 

Tasman Saddle 13 - 21 November 2004

Trip type: Alpine Level: Intermediate-Advanced Organiser: Looking for a volunteer

Fly into Tasman Saddle hut for a week and tackle some of the peaks as well as sort out or polish up on glacier travel etc.

Definite… 

For SALE

Thule roofrack for gutter mounted car with slide on lockable ski rack fitting 3 pairs of skis $150 ono

The following 4 sale items would be good for some one just starting out: 1 pair leather tramping boots size 38 (~$30) semi rigid (i.e. suitable for crampons), Coleman multi fuel light weight primus (~$30)

Diana Munster 478 5589

Bye Pete!

The Wellington Section Committee bids a teary eyed farewell to hard working committee member Pete De Joux as he leaves this month for a year in Antarctica. Thanks for all your work and we look forward to the tales from Pete's Post

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