Monday 3rd September meeting - AIC views/Everest video

From the big time to the big time - First up a short presentation by AIC students Mark Ware and Rachel Davidson "impressions of this year's AIC", and then, a climbing movie on the big screen "The Fatal Game" by Mark Whetu, the story of New Zealander's on Everest in 1996.

Welly High Wall $5 Tuesday night

This wall, in the old gym at Wellington high School at the top of Taranaki Street, will be open to Alpine Club members on Tuesdays from 7 pm. There is bouldering, top ropes, table tennis to warm up on, crash mats, and a CD machine. Bring your own music! Welly High has a range of climbs and boulder problems from Easy to Fing hard. Some new easier routes too have been developed, around the grade 14-19 mark. Call Scotty Taylor if you want to know more on 380 0913.

Fergs discount

$8 if you produce your card. Fergs have bought an extra 300 holds and are putting up heaps of new routes! Woohoo!

Hangdog discount

Still $8 cheap to NZAC members, and lots of happenings.

Library light and action

The library is presently in the throes of creating a catalogue of all the books in the Wellington Section Library. The task is largely complete save for the books presently on loan and those residing on foreign bookshelves. This is appeal to all members to return those errant books that may have strayed from the fold. The librarian is keen to get the library knocked into some shape as a useful ongoing asset to the all members. So even if you haven't managed to finish reading that book over the last 10 years, at least contact the librarian (see email at end of this newsletter) so its details can be recorded and added to the database. When complete, the catalogue will be placed on the Wellington Section website for general viewing.

By Derek Richardson, club librarian of cool.

Do Spring Rock!

The course is already half full, so get in quick! Here's the dates, place them in your calendar. Ring Scott Taylor and book now to avoid disappointment!

Contact Scott Taylor for details. Ph home 380 0913 and leave a message. We also need some more instructors. Again, call Scott to express your interest…now. The cost for students is $420.

eVert:Vertigo by E-mail

Anyone (you do not even have to be a club member) can get this newsletter by email and be the first to read the news. Send an email to: vertigo-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz and you can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to vertigo-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Brilliant discussion forum

A forum has been set up for use by Wellington NZAC members. Please use it considerately to communicate articles of interest, trip details, and other information. Email messages to discussion@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz If you would like to subscribe to this forum, send an email to discussion-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz
You can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to discussion-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Funky web-sites

Check out The New Zealand Alpine Club (National Office) web page which has lots of information, reasons to join the club, and even a form to sign up on line. www.nzalpine.org.nz. Also remember to check out our own Wellington Section web page at nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

And there is a interesting site worth checking out at www.climb.co.nz that has location guides for just about every obscure little corner of New Zealand (of the North Island at least!).

UIAA General Assembly invite

The UIAA General Assembly will be hold at St. Johann im Pongau from October 10th - 14th. The invitation and the information are on the way per snail mail. If you want to get information earlier, please visit our homepage http://www.vavoe.at Under the link "UIAA General assembly" you can find all information about the GA, and also a download area for all documents. Hope to see you in Austria!

Rudolf Kaupe, umlautmeister
Verband alpiner Vereine Österreichs (VAVÖ) Bäckerstraße 16 A-1010 Wien Tel. +43/1/512 54 88 Fax +43/1/512 54 88 4 e-Mail: vavoe@aon.at website: http://www.vavoe.at

NZAC Journal - word to the wise

Warning: do not write for the NZAJ. It gives no fame, and confers no fortune. If you really feel that you must write make sure it doesn't reach the evil hands of the editor. That is a guaranteed way to gain the attentions of someone you should avoid at all costs. Instead, try selling it to Adventure magazine. Do anything but let it reach Hokitika. The deadline (to avoid of course) is August 31. The person posing as editor is Bruce White, last known to reside at 88 Davie Street, Hokitika, but he has been seen disguised as a climber and skulking about the crags. Don't be fooled. This man is dangerous. Regard as spam any emails originating from wordshop@pobox.com. Destroy it as it contains a virus that will lure your PC into writing egotistical claims about your climbing exploits. White is a megalomaniac and must be replaced. He insists that he will produce another edition. This has been a public service announcement.

Editor
New Zealand Alpine Journal
88 Davie Street
Hokitika 7900
New Zealand

Selecta! Ice Climbing Course on offer - Friday 7th to Sunday 9th September 2001

Notorious ice climbing hardman and Mt Cook guide book writer to be Alex Palman will be running a top course on Ice Climbing to be held at Ruapehu (Tukino side) for those wanting instruction on ice climbing. Levels of difficulty catered for range from 'Soft As 'N Sync" through to 'Gangsta Hard Core'. Cost is $100-150 including transport, accommodation and some food. There will be a Theory/Organisation evening on Tuesday 28 or Wednesday 29 August.

If you would like a place on the course contact Caroline Duggan at ph 475 5542 (home) or email cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz Spaces are limited so get in quick!

A veritable cornucopia of trips for your springtime

Here's another programme, full of variety, rather like a box of chocolate, really. Great work from Phil.

August
Ski-touring. Relocated to Mt Ruapehu. 24-26 August.
Diana Munster may still be keen for this weekend but has diverted to Mt Ruapehu given primo snow conditions. Contact: diana.munster@opus.co.nz if interested.

Mt Ngauruhoe. 24-26 August.
Apologies for the short notice, but I had to get this gem in. Pete De Joux has cooked up a gourmet delight that I urge you to sample. "Very flexible small trip designed as a follow-up for students on AIC2001, but open to all. Drive to National Park Friday night or EARLY Saturday morning. Stay in Mangatepopo Hut or a backpacker lodge. Walk to the saddle between Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. Climb Ngauruhoe and camp in tents at the top if weather permits. Return about 7pm on Sunday. Poor weather options:
* re-schedule to the following weekend (i.e. stay home)
* tramp over to Ketatahi (aka Tongariro Crossing)
* go to Whakapapa Skifield for a walk around Knoll Ridge/Delta Corner area (show people where the NZAC Hut is)
* drive to Turoa Skifield for some ice-climbing at the Frozen Waterfall
Share fuel costs for my van ($20 max.). Own food costs + ?Bkpkr accomm."
Contact : peter.dejoux@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 570-1777 (wk), 478-1017 (hm).

September
Te Ao Whekere. Seaward Kaikoura. 14-17 September.
Matt Stevens has confirmed a long weekend of adventure and intrigue. A great opportunity to improve those AIC skills, to get down south, and to find out exactly where this mountain is. Furthermore, he insists that the more the merrier. Contact: ms@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0913.

Girdlestone, Mt. Ruapehu. 21-23 September.
John Barnes is keen for a trip up Girdlestone (the Matterhorn of the North Island of New Zealand), an excellent follow-up trip for the AIC but open to anyone who is keen. Please contact John in Palmerston North. Contact: jb@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 06 357 0654.

October
Mt Paske. Wairau, Nelson. Labour weekend, 19-22 October.
Find this one (NZMG5901929.9000,2488643.7000) and then go climb it! Guaranteed to be a good trip with Alan Lowrie at the helm. For further information, please contact Jim Watt who has kindly offered to organise. Contact: themes@themes.net.nz, or ph: 04 9041027.

November
Tasman Saddle, Mt Cook NP. 23 November-2 December.
Pete De Joux is offering the ultimate introduction to the wonderful world of Mt Cook National Park. Flexible small trip, designed as a first-time trip to the Mt Cook region, esp. for students from AIC2001 or AIC2000. Peaks in this area include Mt Aylmer 2608m, Hochstetter Dome 2823m, Elie de Beaumont 3111m. Fly in to Tasman Saddle by ski plane. Out by ski plane, or walk if you're keen (or stupid). Climb by day; enjoy great food and company by night. (Ski-plane costs would be about $300pp). "Great opportunity to practise safe glacier travel, route finding, weather observation and to climb actual peaks in NZ's premium mountaineering region"-or combine to share flight costs…..
Contact : peter.dejoux@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 570-1777 (wk), 478-1017 (hm).

March 2002
Easter Gardening. 27 March-1 April 2002.
Don French is heading to the Garden of Eden from Clyde, with eyes on Mt Tyndall. Don't miss out. This is sure to be a great gnarly adventure lead by one of the great gnarly adventurers. Get in early and secure a place, Contact: don.f@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 06 377 7117.

Watch this space…
Labour weekend is approaching-19-22 October. I have another indication of a trip to the Mt Cook region around Christmas and will be confirming dates and plans. This information will be extremely useful for co-ordinating logistics such as sharing of air transport up to the snow…

Not long before rock climbing seems like an attractive option!? [What? Rock climbing is always an attractive option. Ed.]

Thanks from Phil to everyone making an effort to generate club trips. Remember, contact trips co-ordinator if you have any ideas for trips-destinations, leaders, dates, level of (in)competence, activities, queries about listed trips, or even if you'd like to help in organising trips. Nothing will be set in stone! Phil Suisted-ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0855.

Exciting club news

New Sport Climbs at Ship Rock, Baring Head and elsewhere!
Martin Wilson and other dudes from Abseil Access have bolted a number of climbs on Ship Rock, 200m north of Baring Head bouldering area. Many of these are very steep!!!

Martin notes that the bolts were well-tested in use by Clayton Lowe attempting the on site of his route "Pigs in Space". Clayton took a 5m dive off the finishing holds. In addition there is also still one climb bolted but not climbed. "This", Martin states, "is a prize for the taking". Go to it readers, the challenge is yours! Martin also asks climbers who regularly on-site to help hone the grades.

Details of the climbs, starting on the extreme left and south end of the crag and working right and eastwards are as follows:

1. "Easy ET", 21, 10m, 3B, DBB. Arete and groove on left of south wall. FA Martin Wilson.
2. "Red Dwarf", 21, 11m, 3B, groove and layback right of ET. FA Martin Wilson.
3. "Pigs in Space", 23, 12m, 3B, up old aid climbing bolt ladder. FA Clayton Lowe.
4. "Space Doubt", 25, 10m, 4B, from lip of cave up leaning wall. FA Martin Wilson.
5. "Reptilian Groove", 21, 10m, 4B, up flakes, cracks to join "Space Doubt" for last 2B. FA Simon Cundy.
6. "Shape Shifter", 26, 12m, 4B, DBB, left side of prow. FA Simon Cundy.
7. "Let Me Up", 22, 12m, 3B, DBB. FA Richard Thompson.
8. Unnamed, unclimbed, 10, 4B, go for it.
9. "Cracker", 19, 10m, 1B, 1.5, 2 Friends in crack.
10. "An Alien at My Table", 19, 9m, 3B, right side of east wall.

Martin also reports on the following new sports routes at Pukerua Bay. At the Arch, 5 minutes west along the coastal track from the Ocean Parade car park.

1. "Ah Chillies", 24, 6m. Continuation of the classic boulder problem on the West Side of the arch. First B after finishing holds on problem, 2nd B over lip. Rap B at top.
2. Top roping area on Northeast face. 3 top rope B anchors. Six routes from grade 8 to 16, all 10m. Ideal for beginners.
And Wairaka Rock, 20 minutes walk from the Ocean Parade car park along the coastal track in the far cave on the South West side of the point can be found:
1. "Nobby's Cave", 24, 16m, 5B, from the lower right corner of the cave to the upper left lip. Two ropes recommended reducing rope drag on lip. Named after a hermit who used to live here, Nobby Clark.

For additional information on these climbs or future climbs, talk to Martin Wilson phone 04 239 9207. He lives on Ocean Parade. Topos will likely appear in Climber in the near future.

By Horse through the Ruahines
There's Snow on them thar local hills! Ruahine snow plodders Dave Henwood, Tony Gates, Alistair Millward, and Derek Sharp recently crossed the central Ruahine Range, from Rangi Hut to Howlett's Hut without skis. They found lots of the deep, soft stuff, and very little cramponable ice. Difficult travel on "the cheval pitch" east of Te Hekenga (1695 m) was made easier when crampons could bite into the steep rock and snow. They report a new firebox at Howlett's hut, with a chimney that glows red hot when coal is burnt in it!

By Tony Gates

Check Tony's whizz photo of the cheval pitch on www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz/tripreport2.htm.

2001 Alpine Instruction course completed amid sh*tloads of snow!
Table traversing, prussiking to the ceiling, and fitting your fist in your mouth are all-important aspects of mountaineering. Eighteen students recently completed the 2001 Alpine Instruction Course where we learnt this and other essential skills for spending time in the hills. For many of us, it was our first opportunity to be in the snow and to learn to walk with balance, rhythm, and secure footing. All credit to Ric for teaching us the mantra of the mountain (it can be found by reading this message backwards). All credit to Al, Andy, Don, Fiona, Glen, Jamie, and Matt for being great instructors and credit too to Pete for reminding us of the sheer, life affirming joy of gear ownership. Finally, all credit to the Club for providing us with the chance to take our first small steps into a very big world. It was a course of three weekends. Thank you.

Matt Spittal

Re-bolting campaign at Titahi Bay
Jon Rosemergy has signalled an intention to replace many of the 5 to 6 year old bolts at Titahi Bay - nice one Jon! Jon also spent a very cold Saturday at Titahi Bay teaching Scott Taylor and the Ed. all about aid climbing. Awesome stuff, highly unfashionable, well worth doing. Nothing more satisfying than pounding a bit of ironmongery into the rock…

Flogging a dead horse, or, market for climbing gear

Wanted: a reverse curve ice hammer
Contact Peter Rowe, Day ph. 9200-213 or night 476-3522

Wanted: aid climbing gear (hammer, etriers, & pitons)
Contact the Editor at newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

For sale: ROCK climbing shoes
To fit 44 (9 1/2) feet. Boreal Aces, $80. Boreal Vector, $90. Both sets have new sticky C4 resoles (cost $60). Ph Mark, (025) 201-8681

Rome's first violinist gives us something to ponder

"Nothing", said Nero, "succeeds like excess".