The end, AIC 2003 at Taharangi Lodge, Mt Taranaki

Section trips news: Growing and sowing

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories, tall or short, fat or thin, sharp or dim. We love to know what you're up to!

Weird scenes in the underworld

Maybe some of the people who have seen me swanning (stumbling) around on the AIC recently will find this amusing, but I am conducting the next concert of the Orpheus Choir and Wellington Sinfonia. It's at Wellington Cathedral Molesworth Street on Saturday 18th October at 8pm. The programme is all American music: Barber, Hovhaness and John Adams. Tickets are from Ticketek.

I'd love it if some people from the club were there. There's no way to self-arrest when the orchestra makes a slip...

Simon Romanos

Skiing

Kevin Patterson, Chris Fleck and I had a great weekend based at Whangaehu Hut. The walk up to the hut on Friday night was dubbed "mikes midnight marathon", which I thought was unfair because the distance was closer to six miles than twenty-six (it was a lovely night for a trot though).

On the Saturday we skinned up the Whangaehu Glacier in nice weather, which deteriorated to a white out as we made the top of Pare. After a run from the summit in a brief clearance and a bite to eat at the dome it became obvious that no further clearances could be expected. It was decided that a tactical retreat to the hut was in order. After leading Kevin and Chris on a traverse into the white void I assured them that before us lay the wide and obstacle free glacier, they were firmly instructed to forget the white-out and let rip. After an uncertain start, the confidence built and at one rest stop Kevin informed us that according to his GPS we were averaging 45km/h even though we couldn't see a thing!

Sunday was a glorious day, we skinned up the crater outlet stream and had elevenses at the lake edge. We had a few runs on a choice slope above the lake, then had a run down the Mangaturuturu Glacier. After a long skin back up the Mangatututuru and across the plateau we enjoyed a brief luncheon in the sun before skiing down the Mangatoetoenui Glacier and traversing around to the hut. After collecting our gear the run back to the car park completed an enjoyable weekend.

Mike Peat

Cordillera Blanca

In July Jon Terry, Bruce Roberts and I went to the Cordillera (sp?) Blanca in Peru. My overall impression that it is hard work doing 5 mountaineering trips in a row. Next holiday I'm going to a beach hah.

Great spot though. It was a mixed bag of results, did three relatively easy peaks at around the 5700m mark (Pisco, Urus, Vallunaraju) but had some bad luck on the two bigger ones. On Alpamayo (5970m) we watched a big serac fall that took out 8 people on the Ferrari route, no shit. We were lucky that we'd decided to have a rest day due to the high number of folks on the climb. Those thinking of climbing this route should be aware of the high level of objective danger despite its popularity and number of successful ascents. Also there are no choppers or radios to speak of in the 'Blanca. Buyer beware. We participated in an attempted rescue of a survivor and didn't feel much like climbing after that.

But we did climb after that: we tried Artensonraju (the Paramount Pictures peak 6025m). Unfortunately the bad luck continued and this was a write-off. We argued with the porters, I stepped in a puddle, and got very ill on bad water despite nuking everything with chlorine or iodine. Never mind, this is one that's worth going back for.

Not sure about these overseas mountaineering trips, the stakes seemed high and the chances of success low. But maybe that's just our bad luck. Mountaineering is mostly punishment and we got our share. I highly recommend this area and I'd go back, but take double the amount of time.

Tom Wilson

NZAJ gets the best stories!

I, Rhys Barrier and James Wright from the Auckland section, went rock climbing in the Magaliesberg in South Africa as a warm up for a trip to Mt Kenya from whence we've just returned - it was a very eventful trip - read all about it in the NZAC journal.

Anj Pande

New Vertigo editor announced

Rachael Schmidt will be taking over as editor starting with the November edition of Vertigo. I want to thank all of those who have sent material in the Vertigo over the years - you know who you are - Vertigo would not work without you.

Please keep all this good material coming - Rachael, as much as me, needs all those trip reports, information, events information, notices, and equipment ads that YOU as the collective reader can possibly send in - all the things that make members actually read their newsletter and feel part of a climbing community.

I have enjoyed the work immensely. I wish Rachael luck in putting her own unique stamp on things.

Simon

MOVED HOUSE?

Tell:
Richard Wesley, NZAC Administrator
PO BOX 786
CHRISTCHURCH
TEL (03) 377 7595, FAX (03) 337 7594
e mail office@alpineclub.org.nz

Rust put to sleep at Titahi Bay by grand coalition of forces!

After six years of bitching about the state of the tracks with the disgusting car wrecks etc at Titahi Bay (Whiteraia Park) - something is finally happening. DOC, Hang Dog climbing, and the NZ Air Force (supplying the helicopters) have got together and now the wrecks are all going to removed within the next 6 weeks. And later the tracks will be upgraded as well.

Finally we will be able to access the rock (and take visitors without cringing) without having to walk past the eyesores.

Good news indeed.

by Warwick, Hang Dog

CHAIRPERSON’S QUIZ No. 4: Answer

King Albert the First of Belgium was the monarch who was killed in a rock-climbing accident. He fell to his death during a solo climb in February 1934.

Four correct entries were received, and as a result of a live draw before the short talks at the September section night meeting, Dieter Ayers won a bottle of wine. In keeping with the royal theme, it was Queen Adelaide wine...

CHAIRPERSON'S 5th QUIZ

Nigel Roberts claims that his fascination with the upper classes is logical - after all, he says, climbers aim for the top. It clearly continues unabated, because Nigel's 5th quiz question is:-

Prince Luigi Amadeo is closely associated with mountain ranges on three continents in addition to mountains on the continent he came from. Which three mountain ranges are they? What is the basis for Prince Luigi's claim to fame in each of the three ranges?

Email your answers -- with the words "Quiz number 5" in the subject line -- to chairperson@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz by no later than 5:00 pm on Sunday, 5 October, to be in with a chance of winning a bottle of wine from Prince Luigi's homeland. (Unlike Powerball, the chairperson's prizes do not jackpot. If there are no correct answers, Nigel plans to drink the wine himself.)

Family social climbing mooted

Interest has been expressed in the section organising small family group trips of a climbing nature. Ideas have included Wharepapa and Whanganui Bay Rock weekends, Castle Hill meet, Unwin hut meet in school hols (one week say), Payne's Ford, even some tramps perhaps.

If you are interested in this idea please let me know and if there is enough interest we will develop a plan of action so people can get together to enjoy climbing as a family experience. Contact me at sh@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Steve Hart

NZAC National instruction programme

Course Numbers are limited so book early! Fully qualified alpine guides or rock instructors will be used to lead all courses and there will be an instructor - student ration of 1:4 ensuring an excellent learning environment.

Intermediate Rock Instruction (Two Days) $99
23-24 October Otago
1-2 November, Canterbury
23-24 October Auckland
1-2 November , Wellington

Intermediate- Advanced Mountaineering (Five Days) $750
3-7 January 2004 , Unwin Hut Mt Cook
10-14 January 2004 Unwin Hut Mt Cook

Richard Wesley
National Administrator
phone 03 377 7595
email richard@alpineclub.org.nz

And here are the club trips ....

Wellington Section Trips

Trips are a key part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to Mike Williams (trips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)

Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going on a safe and enjoyable trip.

See you in the hills!

Weekend October 4-5 (Note change to date)

Long Weekend October 25-26-27

Weekend November 8-9

Week November 29- December 7

Week January 3 - 11, 2004 

Long weekend January 17-18-19

For sale…wanted…climber partner needed

For sale: Leather mountaineering boots - can be worn with clip on crampons. One pair size 41, one pair size 46. $350 each pair ono. And there's a story behind them! Both pairs have been worn for one trip only - but on a 68 day trip up Mt Kenya. We had to buy them mail order hence didn't get the sizings exactly right and we ended up with them too big. Both pairs of boots are in good condition. These boots fall out smaller than the regular sizings - the size 41s would probably fit you if you normally wear a 39 (roughly a 6 or 7). The 46 would fit if you normally wear about a size 11-11 1/2. Phone Anjali on 04 4753 285 or 025 247 1961.

WANTED: Plastic mountaineering boots in good condition, all sizes. Phone Kate or Mike on 03 7534 099, PO Box 4, Franz Josef Glacier, South Westland. Phone 03 7534 099, e-mail westcoastclimbing@xtra.co.nz.

Ski tour or climbing partner wanted!: 1st - 19th Sept and 6th - 31st Oct for short or long trips. 8 years climbing experience and now trying my hand at ski touring. Please leave a message with contact number. Steve (Christchurch) 03 3775034, steven_jeff@yahoo.com