Monday 1st October club meeting: cool times at the Turnbull: 8 pm

Two warm up talks first: Chris Fitzgerald, Melinda Short & Caroline Duggan have pooled their resources and will show some slides and talk about two recent events - The Wellington Section Ice Climbing Course on Ruapehu and the Wellington Section trip to Te Ao Whekere (2590m) in the Seaward Kaikouras.

The main event, titled something like "The Evolution of a Rock Climbing Route" or "How a Rock Climbing Route is Created", is Dave Garrity all the way from the Waikato. This is a "must see" for everyone that has ever wondered how routes (on real rock) are created.

Dave Garrity has been rock climbing for the last 26 years and climbing new routes for 20 of those years. Over the last ten years he has been one of Bryce Martin's associates in developing new crags in the Waikato and nearby including Pairere, Froggatt, Sheridan, Bosch, Smith's Rocks, Bayley's Road, Hall's, Gower, Waipapa, and Mangaotaki.

Climbing new routes has some special rewards and costs and Dave is going to speak about these and the process of developing new crags and finding new routes to do and some of the issues that affect climbing of this sort. In particular some of the whys, wheres and hows of bolting and present access issues will be covered. Come along with some questions.

Welly High Wall $5 Tuesday night

This wall, in the old gym at Wellington high School at the top of Taranaki Street, will be open to Alpine Club members on Tuesdays from 7 pm. There is bouldering, top ropes, table tennis to warm up on, crash mats, and a CD machine. Bring your own music! Welly High has a range of climbs and boulder problems from Easy to Fing hard. Some new easier routes too have been developed, around the grade 14-19 mark. Call Scotty Taylor if you want to know more on 380 0913.

Fergs discount

$8 if you produce your card. Fergs have bought an extra 300 holds and are putting up heaps of new routes! Woohoo!

Hangdog discount

Still $8 cheap to NZAC members, and lots of happenings.

Library light and action, again

The library is presently in the throes of creating a catalogue of all the books in the Wellington Section Library. The task is largely complete, save for the books on loan. This is appeal to all members to return those errant books that may have strayed from the fold. The librarian is keen to get the library knocked into some shape as a useful ongoing asset to the all members. So even if you haven't managed to finish reading that book over the last 10 years, at least contact the librarian (see email at end of this newsletter) so its details can be recorded and added to the database.

By Derek Richardson, club librarian of cool.

Do Spring Rock! Tell a Friend@!

The course is already half full, so get in quick! Here's the dates, place them in your calendar. Ring Scott Taylor and book now to avoid disappointment!

Contact Scott Taylor for details. Ph home 380 0913 and leave a message. We also need some more instructors. Again, call Scott to express your interest…now. The cost for students is $420.

eVert:Vertigo by E-mail

Anyone (you do not even have to be a club member) can get this newsletter by email and be the first to read the news. Send an email to: vertigo-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz and you can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to vertigo-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Editorial gramble

A gramble is an interim place, lurking somewhere between a grumble and a ramble. A rambly grumble or a grumbly ramble? But let not such fine nuances detain us here. My problem here is rubbish at the base of Ship Rock, Baring Head - probably put there by non-climbers, but it doesn't really matter who is responsible. Rubbish attracts more rubbish, in the same way Russell Crowe attracts Meg Ryan. My biggest gripe about Titahi Bay is the rubbish, but the problem there is larger and more insoluble. My suggestion is if you're climbing at Ship Rock that you pick up one bit of rubbish on the ground and place it in a rubbish bin. Not a big ask. If we all do it, soon it will disappear like the snow in the spring sun.

Brilliant discussion forum

A forum has been set up for use by Wellington NZAC members. Please use it considerately to communicate articles of interest, trip details, and other information. Email messages to discussion@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz If you would like to subscribe to this forum, send an email to discussion-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz
You can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to discussion-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Aberrant rock web-sites

Check out The New Zealand Alpine Club (National Office) web page which has lots of information, reasons to join the club, and even a form to sign up on line. www.nzalpine.org.nz. Also remember to check out our own Wellington Section web page at nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

And there is a interesting site worth checking out at www.climb.co.nz that has location guides for just about every obscure little corner of New Zealand (of the North Island at least!).
Try John Palmer's www.powerband.org.nz too.

Trips: A plethora of events to fill your springtime with flowers

October
Mt Paske. Wairau, Nelson. Labour weekend, 19-22 October.
Find this one (NZMG5901929.9000,2488643.7000) and then go climb it! Guaranteed to be a good trip with Alan Lowrie at the helm. For further information, please contact Jim Watt who has kindly offered to organise. Contact: themes@themes.net.nz, or ph: 04 9041027.

November
West side, Ruapehu. 9-11 November
I'm organising a trip to the western side of Ruapehu (as a follow up for those who took part in this year's AIC). The trip is scheduled for the weekend of November 9 - 11 (leave WN Friday night). We could stay at Turoa (Massey Hut) or at Whakapapa (WTMC's sumptious "hut" - 5mins from the top of the Bruce). The plan is to undertake a full day trip to the Plateau on the Saturday.
Call Kara Lipski on 387 4420 (or email me kalipski@ihug.co.nz).

Tasman Saddle, Mt Cook NP. 23 November-2 December.
Pete De Joux is offering the ultimate introduction to the wonderful world of Mt Cook National Park. Flexible small trip, designed as a first-time trip to the Mt Cook region, esp. for students from AIC2001 or AIC2000. Peaks in this area include Mt Aylmer 2608m, Hochstetter Dome 2823m, Elie de Beaumont 3111m. Fly in to Tasman Saddle by ski plane. Out by ski plane, or walk if you're keen (or stupid). Climb by day; enjoy great food and company by night. (Ski-plane costs would be about $300pp). "Great opportunity to practise safe glacier travel, route finding, weather observation and to climb actual peaks in NZ's premium mountaineering region"-or combine to share flight costs…..
Contact : peter.dejoux@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 570-1777 (wk), 478-1017 (hm).

March 2002
Easter Gardening. 27 March-1 April 2002.
Don French is heading to the Garden of Eden from Clyde, with eyes on Mt Tyndall. Don't miss out. This is sure to be a great gnarly adventure lead by one of the great gnarly adventurers. Get in early and secure a place, Contact: don.f@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 06 377 7117.

Watch this space…
Labour weekend is approaching-19-22 October. I have another indication of a trip to the Mt Cook region around Christmas and will be confirming dates and plans. This information will be extremely useful for co-ordinating logistics such as sharing of air transport up to the snow…

Thanks from Phil to everyone making an effort to generate club trips. Remember, contact trips co-ordinator if you have any ideas for trips-destinations, leaders, dates, level of (in)competence, activities, queries about listed trips, or even if you'd like to help in organising trips. Nothing will be set in stone! Phil Suisted-ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0855.

Tangentially interesting news regarding the intersection between climbing and club members

The Magic Faraway Mountain!
In a distant island galaxy, faraway yet accessible by a 3 hour ferry ride and 2 hour van trip lay a mountain, A beautiful mountain! Fuelled full of pies, we mounted our trusty transit. We travelled to the bleating lamb and the dancing dog display (circumstances permitting). As the sun rose we walked to the hut, the hut with the shower and the mattresses and the 4 taps. Toil and trouble took us to Camp 1 where the wind attempted to shred the expedition before it had even started. A 4am start was not required. After a hurried breakfast the summit beckoned and saw the eleven little pixies scramble up the scree and onto the snow. Onwards we toiled, past great buttresses and vast snow fields, aided by gallant step pluggers (plastics wearing pixies). Finally we emerged onto the glistening apex, stamped our summit claims with a traditional view before intializing a rapid descent.
As we came back
We passed the farmer's shack
But not before the scree attack
Onto the boat
Home we float

And back to me....

Note: Alan Lowrie, Ben Marsland, Caroline Duggan, Chris Fitzgerald, Fraser Crichton, Ian Bennett, Maria Cassidy, Matt Spittal, Matthew Stevens, Melinda Short and Will Young climbed Te Ao Whekere (2595m) in the Seaward Kaikouras over the weekend of Sep 14- 17, 2001. Thanks to "super-dude" Matt Stevens for organising a great trip. We love you; thousand don't; live with it.

by all of us (with apologies to Enid Blyton and "Boy" George Lucas)

Bring back the birch: Stirring deeds in the land of Osh with Stu Gray

Just back from great trip to Kurumdy vallley, outlier of Pamir Alai, with a UK/Russian group led by Andrew Wielowchowski (old Pamir hand, map publisher, translator, school teacher in Wales)

Made first ascent of the beautiful Zoria Vostoka, or Eastern Sunrise, 6350m, which is significant in that the borders of Krygyz, Tajik, and China all meet at this point, so its easy to find on the map. It apparently was one of the highest unclimbed knobs in the FSU. Hard to find safe access onto it, but then a massive snow plough up 1500m of the North face. The group also did a couple of others, a lovely 5360m (Targa), and 4700m (Snow Dragon). Wonderful area, only open for last couple of years, fresh rounds of bread from the local Krygyz nomad family, Russki medicine (=vodka) from the Russians, and at the end a good thrashing with birch leaves in the Osh sauna by Luda, our friendly cook.

Cheers!
Stu Gray

Report back from Primo Ice Climbing course: Selecta!

Over the weekend of Sep 7 - 9, 2001, Will Aitken, Nigel Flude, Merewyn Ellis, John Sorenson, Fraser Crichton, Dave Shanks and Caroline Duggan, headed up to Whangaehu Hut on Ruapehu for a weekend of ice climbing instruction from Alex Palman and Anjali Pande. Two days of brilliant weather followed with top roped 2 tools, 1 tool and 'look Mum, no hands' climbing on Saturday. Sunday saw us split into 3 teams, led by Alex, Anj and Fraser and head up to Cathedral Rock to actually climb. A great day ended with a sunset over the Plateau, back to the cars in darkness and early morning arrival back in Welly. Thanks heaps to all instructors.

Ta Caroline.

Castle Hill microclimate rescues South Island road trip

Matt Spittal "Hill", Matt D, Scotty and Simey give thanks to the creator for popping Castle Hill in a place where the sun always shines and gentle zephyrs caress the landscape with soft warm hands. Various V's were ascended; other V's were drunk. Scott ascended a V5, Simey sunk 5 V's. Things were therefore possessed of a certain symmetry. All were happy. Mt Somers was visited but the weather didn't live up to the crag's name and was generally crap; similar opinions were ventured about rock quality on the Pinnacles. Beautiful place though. An alpine experience was also had at Castle Rock on a day that bit at knuckles like a Doberman on ecstasy.

Flogging a dead donkey: a hyper-market for climbing gear

Wanted: a reverse curve ice hammer
Contact Peter Rowe, Day ph. 9200-213 or night 476-3522

Wanted: aid climbing gear (hammer, etriers, & pitons)
Contact the Editor at newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

Wanted: Strap-on crampons
I am after a pair of strap-on crampons for about size 9 boots. my contact details are james@solnet.co.nz, phone (04)4620743

For sale: ROCK climbing shoes
To fit 44 (9 1/2) feet. Boreal Aces, $80. Boreal Vector, $90. Both sets have new sticky C4 resoles (cost $60). Ph Mark, (025) 201-8681

For sale: Plastic climbing boots.
ASOLO Supersofts size 5 UK (7 US) $150 neg. Contact Lisa Winthrop, ph 021 110 9821, email WinthropL@maf.govt.nz

A witty aphorism on rights, with application to climbing access & style

"In a democratic society, everyone has rights. Your rights come first. But, then, so do everyone else's."

Sourced to Anon. Govt. Bureaucrat.