Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first unimpeded Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meetings and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea and coffee afterwards.

The coup has failed. Members have decided that they wish to return to the reliable stodge of the Backbencher Pub on Molesworth St for our pre-section night liasons. It just proves that its hard to break old habits. So from 6:30pm until after 7:00pm we look forward to seeing you there.

Angela Moles off the summit of Mt Franklin (2340 m)

Mount Franklin in a Window of Weather

After delaying the trip for three weekends, the weather window finally arrived and on Friday after work Kevin Patterson (trip organizer), Angela Moles and Scott Taylor left for the south island. The objective was Mt Franklin (2340meters) the highest mountain in the Nelson lakes region.

Friday night was spent in St Arnaud and after 5hours sleep the team was up again to drive to Lake Rotoroa. An aqua taxi took us to the other side of the lake where the pleasant 8 hour tramp to Blue Lake Hut began.

We arrived at the hut in good time and then set off on a reconnaissance mission to see where we would have to bush bash in the dark the next morning to get to the start of the climb.

After an early night we awoke at 5am and were bush bashing by 6.10am - an interesting experience in the dark! We successfully navigated to the river channel that we would follow up into the mountain’s basin. By this stage the mist was lifting and the sun was starting to highlight the beautiful peaks that were surrounding us. We keep on climbing….

The slope steepened and we pressed on and up through the snow channels that passed through Franklins rocky buttresses. By 10am we were on the main ridge and were coming around the other side on the mountain which would lead us onto the well known, corniced highway to the top. By 11am were we braving the winds and wind-chill factor on the summit. A weather forecast was downloaded and summit photos were taken. Then the team high-tailed down off the upper part of the mountain as a change we expected in the weather was to hit the region mid afternoon.

With crampons removed a bum sliding competition was set up from high above the basin down in to the lower basin of Franklin. Kevin easily won after gaining the fastest time, highest speed, and the most air after hitting a bump at high speed which catapulted him well down the face of the slope.

After arriving back at the hut mid afternoon a hot brew was in store. And then the team walked across to view Lake Constance which was over a saddle at the end on the blue lake.

That night the foul weather hammered in bringing snow, sleet and rain. However by the time we left the next morning the weather had passed through and the tramp down to Lake Rotoroa was down in nice sunny weather except for the last 30minutes when it started to rain. We boarded the aqua taxi at 5pm and had a relaxed dinner in St Arnaud before heading back to catch the 10pm ferry back to Wellington.

All in all a successful trip with a great views from the summit, a pleasant climb and an awesome 3 day weekend out in New Zealand’s special outdoors.

Scott Taylor

Summer Rock is Back

Once again the Rock instruction course will be run again this year, lead again by Scott Taylor.
It will cover the basics of outdoor climbing on rock. By the end of the course you will have the skills to climb with style and grace, abseil, lead belay, lead climb on bolted routes and set up a slack line.

Approximate cost will be about $400. The course will be limited to 10 people. It will run from the end of Feb through to early April (dates to be confirmed)

Contact Blair Hiscoke (bh@ nzalpine.wellington.net.nz) or if you are really keen send your $50 deposit (with your name) to seal your place to :
'Summer Rock'
16 Manley Terrace
Newtown

DOC Recreational Summit

Over 200 people met in Wellington for the weekend of 16-17 September to talk about outdoor recreation. NZAC sent 5 representatives. Though a lot of the discussion was not directly relevant to climbing, a couple of the resulting recommmendations to DOC and the government generally will be of interest to club members:

• A plea for "self-responsibility" and "mountains without handrails", based on a concern that we are becoming too risk averse.
• Acceptance of the need to ensure "access for everyone", fit or not, but with appropriate zoning for users with special needs.
• Endorsement for the preservation of "wilderness", with related need to "set clear limits on use".

Another recommendation which was given high priority was the development of "a New Zealand Outdoor Recreation Strategy", which would involve government agencies. NZAC would be part of this, but first it is important for the "climbing sector" to work out its own needs and objectives."
Judy Reid

Club Restructuring

Following on meetings with all the section committees, there's an item on the NZAC website about a proposed change to the way in which the club is run. If you've got any questions or views, talk to your section representatives.

They will be at the November CCM, which will decide whether it endorses rule changes that will go to the 2007 AGM for a final decision.

So CHECK THE WEBSITE - these are important issues for the Club, and members should be fully informed about them.

Judy Reid

Bolting instruction course offered: North Island

"Create a masterpiece" bolting workshops. Two identical weekend courses will focus on all aspects of creating a new route, from drilling and placement techniquesto envisioning a quality new route with good bolting ethics. The goal is that by the end of the weekend you will have placed a variety of bolts and created a new route. You will be an active advocate for new routing and will spread information and techniques around your climbing communities. The instructor (Paul Rogers) has dedicated many years to creating and promoting great rock routes. He is passionate about passing on information and skills to help you do the same.

How to Apply: There is only space for 6 people on each weekend. We are seeking people who have shown a longer term commitment to rock climbing and who will contribute actively to new routing. Contact the committee who will submit your name to national office where the final selection will occur.

Cost: $100 per person and includes world class instruction and all bolting equipment costs. This course is heavily subsidized by the club.

Where and When: Whanganui Bay, Two identical weekend courses:November 18/19 and 25/26

Kristen Foley

... And on a similar note

Kristen F is the keeper of the section drill. If you would like to use it, contact him and expect a some questions about your plans. If it isn't booked, and you have honorable intentions, you get the drill for the weekend and along with it, the NZAC Bolting Policy booklet and a manual for the drill. happy bolting.
Editor

Christmas Special

From now until Dec 15, 2006 members may purchase either of two special package book deals. The Mount Aspiring and Barron Saddle/Mt Brewster guidebooks, or the Tongariro and Taranaki guidebooks will sell for $35 a pair (+$4.50 p&p)

Margaret (at) alpineclub.org.nz

... And more on books

“Chronology or the Tararua and Rimutaka Ranges” : A fully revised 5th edition of this booklet of 64 pages, packed with information on the history, huts, and events of the two ranges, is now available. Copies can be obtained from the author at $10 each (incl postage) from

Ross A. Kerr
P.O. Box 540
Levin 5510

Conservation Volunteers

Sign up for a summer holiday with a difference ! The Department of Conservation is offering volunteers two week's free accommodation at two prime holiday destinations in the Egmont National Park - Holly Hut (4-8 Dec 2006) and Lake Dive hut (12-16 Feb 2007). Volunteers will get first hand experience at hut and track maintenance. Previous experience with a paint brush and outdoor work would be an advantage. You will also get to experience the magic of monitoring kiwi calls at night and surveying for a threatened plant found only on Egmont. Volunteers will need to provide their own tramping equipment, wet weather and sleeping gear. You will be supplied with food, tools for the job and supervision.

Contact Neville Parminter, 06-765 5144 or nparminter@doc.govt.nz for more information and for an application form. Numbers will be strictly limited.

Centennial Hut : 11th - 18th November

For those of you with glacier travel and route finding experience, there is a trip planned for approx 9 days (5-7 days climbing, 2 days travel down/back) to Centennial hut in November (exact date to be confirmed). The plan is for helicopter access and egress with a max of 10 people on this trip.
Contact: Garth London GL@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz or 04479 2984
There is still 1 place available on this trip, so hurry if you are keen.

Aconcagua : 2007

The highest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere and outside Asia is the perfect choice to take your high altitude trekking to the next level. I'm organizing an Aconcagua expedition between 11/2006 and 02/2007 or 11/2007 and 02/2008 and I'm looking for people to join the core group to work out the details during the next few months. Once the exact budget, date, route and timetable have been set the expedition will be open for any club members to join at a later phase. Aconcagua does not necessarily require technical climbing skills but experience in high altitude trekking and fitness is required. For those who aim on taking eight-thousanders later Aconcagua is extremely good practice. I am also considering combining an acclimatisation trip to the Cotopaxi (and possibly the other volcanos there) in Equador just before the expedition.
Please contact me through e-mail at jsarkila@gmail.com for more information and visit www.aconcagua.com for general information about the mountain.

Juho Sarkila

For Sale

Koflach Boots Size 8 1/2
Approx 5 years old, $90
Contact Garth London, gl@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Alpine Club Journals
1968 - 1987 with 1986 missing.
Also a very old bound copy of volume II 1895 & 1896 and vol III 1921 & vol IV 1922.
Contact on jill.west [at] paradise.net.nz