Ode to Simon

As you will have noticed, Simon Chapple, our friend and esteemed Ed. of many years cranked out his last edition last month. We asked his friends and climbing colleagues to give us a brief history of the man who has brought us so much… er… joy and happiness (ahem). As a child, Simon was adopted and raised by a tribe of Menganese boat people. Living off eggs robbed from cliff top nests, Simon was soloing grade 28 by the age of seven. Unfortunately Simon was ostracised and abandoned by the tribe when he developed his infamous pelt. He headed inland to the Himalayan environment to which his body was now so well suited. When Ed Hillary encountered Simon in 1953, Ed offered our Ed. a place on the expedition. Not wanting to have his masculinity threatened by using Fairydown gear, the Ed. declined, and proceeded to race Ed to the top. A fierce battle ensued as Ed and the Ed. forged their way up Everest, until, on the summit ridge, Ed knocked the Ed. off. Ed revealed in the glory of the ascent, and boasted about having "knocked the bastard off". Devastated, the Ed. roamed the mountain ranges of the world, inspiring numerous yeti sightings. Eventually Simon realised he didn't have to spend his life plodding through snow, miserable and cold; he saw the light and took up rock climbing. Simon travelled the globe fisting cracks, on Sheffield Grit, Yosemite Granite, and even Titahi Bay Crud. He earned the respect of many, including British hard man Don Whilans, who proclaimed that "I'll never sleep with a man, but if I had to, it would have to be Simon Chapple". Simon's talents were enjoyed by the masses after he played Sly and Tom's stunt doubles in block buster movies. Simon's illustrious climbing career faltered briefly after a near death fall at Arapiles. However, with typical stoic determination, Simon has not let the neurological damage sustained slow him down. He continues to contribute greatly to the club as a rock instructor, with his see through Man-U shorts and a climbing style as smooth as warm ear wax. We all wish him well as he prepares to take on the challenges of fatherhood.

All you aspiring journo's out there - I hear some of you might have been interested in the Ed. Job (I confess I don't have the body hair to truly fill Simon's shoes). If anyone is really keen, I'd be happy to hear from them - the new Ed.

Section trips news

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories.

RUAPEHU ALPINE STYLE

30-31 August. The alpine stylers comprised Nigel Roberts, Tom Zink, David Eaton and Mike Peat. Like all good weekend expeditions dining in style is just as important as climbing with style. To this end, café cuisine was required and the Exchange in Taihape fitted the bill for our Friday climbing pleasure. Forget practicality, we know 4 scallops served with a drizzle of hollandaise on an enormous plate is aesthetically pleasing but disappointing to the appetite! After taking dessert and coffee we bundled into the jeep and drove to the Karioi Forest (near Tangiwai). A pleasant tent site was found on the bank of the Wahianoa River where we retired for the night.

The morning dawned calm with a misty rain but not overly threatening so it was game on. We forged on for half an hour through the bushline and up onto the tussock flanks to 1200m altitude, where we abandoned the vehicle and continued on foot. Following a series of wandering spurs, we climbed gradually eventually hitting the snow line. The snow gradually increased in depth until it became pretty tough going through knee deep fresh powder. Exhausted, we finally pitched the tents at about 2200m on the lower Wahianoa Glacier mid afternoon. Determined to make the most of our time we pushed on into the whiteout, reaching the summit 2797m at 6 pm in the last rays of sunshine in very cold conditions. By a stroke of luck, it cleared briefly while we were on top so we were able to enjoy the sunset over Taranaki. The descent was completed in darkness and falling snow but the trusty GPS led us safely back to camp.

Sunday's weather was perfect, so David, Tom and Mike headed off to climb Girdlestone which towered magnificently over our tents. We climbed the remote south face which is quite steep, thigh deep powder snow made the climbing hard work but straight forward. The summit was reached in calm cloudless conditions, and we descended via the north ridge. The east facing snow slope leading back to the Wahianoa Glacier had to be treated with a great deal of respect, it was ripe for avalanche after having had the sun on it for several hours. Our caution was soon proven when we were halfway down, the slope released about 100m away after a large lump of sastrugi fell from the bluff above.

After a leisurely lunch back at the tents with Nigel, we packed up and headed down arriving back at the car in the late afternoon. So concluded a fantastic trip into a stunning area that sees very few visitors.

Mike Peat

3 GUYS GO FAIR WEATHER CLIMBING (25-27 JULY)

The somewhat intimidating icy south side of Egmont was the destination. Unfortunately about the only thing that went right on the first weekend attempt was the successful location at last of the Pizza Hut in Wanganui (it's amazing what you can use a GPS for!) The weather on Saturday was poor with a strong cold wet southerly blowing, so we vowed to maintain our home earned brownie points and make a return the following weekend.

The second weekend was perfect, a light northerly left us on the south side with a big blue sky hole. The Syme Hut icebox was obtained in mid morning and in good public servant tradition we stopped for a 2 hour lunch break.

Fully rested the push for the summit was on and achieved just after 1 pm in somewhat smooth steep icy conditions. Tom got out his new toys (ice screw) and after a couple of attempts we eventually knocked off Sharks Tooth via the northern wall route. After overnighting in Syme Hut and having a bit more of a play the next day it was sadly time to return. A pretty perfect weekend. Team=Paul Clarke, Kevin Patterson (trip leader) and Tom Zink.

Kevin Patterson

FREE PIES AND VEHICLE GYMNASTICS

In early October we (Kevin Patterson, Jane Furkert, Mark Vickers, Paul Clarke and Sean Kelly) travelled to Arthur's Pass for an attempt on Mt Rolleston (2275m). Accompanied by Jenny Henshaw (now living in Chch) and Sam, we all travelled from Chch in Jenny and Sam's cars late on Friday night. Once Castle Hill had been gained, we were treated to a glorious moonlight sky and there was much drooling over acres of tasty boulderable rock.

5am on Saturday morning saw Kevin reporting an encouraging clear-ish sky so we quickly (relatively) ate breakfast and packed our gear. By 6.15 am we were on our way up through the trees on the Rome Ridge track. Very high clouds were observed with a ominous looking front to the north. Despite a five hour sleep and one upset belly (Mark's baked beans) we were making excellent progress.

Six hours, two buttresses, one exposed ridge, one pitch and one dropped brand new piece of equipment later we found ourselves at the top of a very steep notch in the ridge. Together with weather front and time issues, it was decided that we would retreat the way we came.

So, nine hours of backwards down-climbing, two buttresses, piles of soft snow, one 'GPC assisted' 200m course correction and a beautiful blue sky later we found ourselves back at the car (fetched by Kevin). After much driving around and depositing cars (Sam and Jenny had piked out and done a 32km run instead) it was 9pm and a search for food was on. Arthur's Pass closes quite early it seems. A quick drive to Bealey Pub and we returned with 6 free pies (thanks!)

Sunday morning found us in a conference discussing what the day would entail. Due to sore legs, weather and flagging enthusiasm we decided on a trip to the Otira viaduct (exciting I know) and a boulder at Castle Hill on the way to Pizza Hut (have they paid us to promote them this month? Ed) in Chch. Time marched on and despite a very bad knee and rain it was difficult to drag Mark away from the boulders so we could go home. Pizza and more vehicle gymnastics saw us on the plane and home on time.

Thanks to Kevin for organising the trip, and special thanks to Jenny and Sam for the use of their cars.

Sean Kelly

TO GIRDLESTONE OR NOT TO GIRDLESTONE

A second club trip to Girdlestone and this time I didn't even make the mountain…

Approximately 20 people made it to the lodge in Ohakune on Friday night and miraculously up for an early breakfast on Saturday. While some went for a gentle bush walk or two, Caroline, Eric, Merewyn and Josh headed off to Mangetepopo for some winter rock climbing joined by Catherine, Michele, Karen, Rachel, Jen, Chris, Matt, Mike, Dan and Ben. We were in the cloud most of the day but when it wasn't raining it was quite a dry cloud. Eric, Merewyn, and Josh set up ropes on Death Wall (Up and At 'Em and Death Wall) and much sharing of shoes was done. Karen, Caroline and Josh sat at the top and belayed in their winter woollies. Meanwhile Eric and Michele did Parc Lane (Eric leading the crux in the rain) and then Ta Lo (Michele, Eric and Karen). When it looked like the rain was settling in for the day we headed off to Tokaanu for a hot soak.

Saturday night was pizza and beer in Ohakune - some people settling into the party mood. Not as many people were up early on Sunday morning. The mountain looked more promising and I think some even eventually made it onto the white stuff (Rachel, Jen and Justin (unconfirmed though) at least).

Caroline, Eric, Merewyn and Josh headed off to Whanganui Bay for another days' rock climbing (why we even bothered with skis and snow gear in the car). It started to rain as we got to the Main Cliff but Merewyn made it up Surrogate and Eric got a third of the way up Eternity Rd before the torrent running down the rock made him down climb. The rain was coming in off the lake so we stopped at Lobotomy Buttress on the way out in brilliant sunshine and all managed some climbing there. Eric took a big winger (note he could do with a new rope - Xmas present sis?! - the old one is waaay too stretchy). Merewyn, Josh and Eric got a few climbs done and Caroline even managed to follow up a 17 (a far cry from the 13 on Saturday). Then back to Wellington with some newfound enthusiasm for rock.

Caroline Duggan

CHAIRPERSON'S 5th QUIZ

Nigel Roberts' 5th quiz comprised a series of questions. They were, "Prince Luigi Amadeo is closely associated with mountain ranges on 3 continents in addition to mountains on the continent he came from. Which 3 mountain ranges are they? What is the basis for Prince Luigi's claim to fame in each of the 3 ranges?"

As six people discovered, Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy was better known as the Duke of the Abruzzi, and when you knew that it was quite easy to find out that his main mountaineering feats included the 1897 first ascent of Mt St Elias in Alaska's St Elias range; the 1906 first ascent of Mt Stanley in the Ruwenzori range, Africa's fabled Mountains of the Moon; and, of course, his 1909 attempt on K2's south-east ridge, now known as the Abruzzi Ridge. Six correct entries were submitted to Nigel and as a result of a live draw by Lydia Bradey at the October section night meeting, Caro Duggan won a bottle of fine Italian wine.

CHAIRPERSON'S 6th QUIZ - NO Google.COM!

The Google search engine on the Internet has been a great boon for fans of the Chairperson's quiz questions. For Nigel's 6th quiz however, he has come up with a question that will sort the sheep (historians of climbing) from the goats (computer geeks). Nigel Roberts is a New Zealand political scientist, but most of his main climbs have been overseas (to be blunt, he's a shameless foreign peak bagger). However, one of Nigel's former colleagues - now retired - was a member of a party that completed a first ascent of one of the classic routes on one of New Zealand's 3000-metre peaks. Who was it? What was the peak, and which route was it?

Email your answers -- with the words "Quiz number 6" in the subject line -- to chairperson@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz by no later than 5:00 pm on Sunday, 2 November, to be in with a chance of winning a bottle of wine, which, given the subject matter of this month's quiz, will simply have to be from the South Island because there are no 3,000 metre peaks in the North Island.

If you can't do it, read about it!

New Books in the Wgtn Section Library - Yes, we do have our very own library of mountain-related books - some new, some old, some highly unique. Members are encouraged to avail themselves of this facility. This year so far we have added four new books:

Climbing Free, by Lynn Hill (really inspiring, don't expect to sleep once you start reading! - Ed.) An autobiography by one of the rock climbing fraternity's most talented female climbers. In 1994, she free climbed the Nose of El Capitan, a feat which no man or woman had previously achieved. The account, co-authored by Greg Child, covers her life from early childhood to the present. This book is an inspirational "must read" for budding rock climbers. The fact that it has failed to hit the library shelves since it was purchased in April is proof of its popularity.

Above the Clouds, by Anatoli Boukreev. Linda Wylie, a close friend of Anatoli, has edited the diary entries of this strong and gifted mountaineer. It provides a glimpse into the inner feelings and incredible drive of this largely misunderstood man through his own personal reflections including the now famous 1996 Everest disaster.

Ice World, Techniques & Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing, by Jeff Lowe. A history of ice climbing as a sport and an overview of the world's best ice climbs. Includes illustrated instructions for mastering basic and advanced techniques and avoiding hazards.

Taranaki Mt Egmont, by Ross Eden. Still steaming hot off the press, this is the second edition of the climber's guide to Taranaki Mt Egmont and a NZAC publication. Good for alpine and rock climbers alike.

A full listing of the section's books may be viewed on the website nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Derek Richardson

Our website

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NZAC National instruction programme

Course Numbers are limited so book early! Fully qualified alpine guides or rock instructors will be used to lead all courses and there will be an instructor - student ration of 1:4 ensuring an excellent learning environment.

Intermediate Rock Instruction (Two Days) $99
1-2 November, Canterbury
1-2 November , Wellington

Intermediate- Advanced Mountaineering (Five Days) $750
3-7 January 2004 , Unwin Hut Mt Cook
10-14 January 2004 Unwin Hut Mt Cook

Richard Wesley
National Administrator
phone 03 377 7595
email richard@alpineclub.org.nz

For Sale/Fitting Clinics

For sale: Mountaineering gear

Four season tent 2 person breathable weight 3.5 kg (min 2.7 kg) alloy, poles new $620
Four season down s/bag For extreme conditions (high altitude, mountaineering) water resistant new $590
Climbing Pack Volume 60 l Fabric: poly oxford 600 and cordura 1000 IBS suspension new $170

phone: Alex 021 1609217

Women's' Fitting Clinics

Sally Carter is running a women's' fitting clinic (boots I presume!) at Mainly Tramping 12pm to 6 pm Monday 8 December 2003. Good range and availability of sizes in 5-10 and Petzl.

Interested call Sally Carter, ph 025 352 111

And here are the club trips ....

Wellington Section Trips

Trips are a key part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to Mike Williams (trips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)

Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going on a safe and enjoyable trip.