Ben, Tom and Nicole show off what they learnt! AIC 2002

"Summit to sea": All Rhodes lead to November section night

November Section night will be a spectacular multimedia show on the Mt Aspiring area. Presented by John Rhodes, titled "Summit to Sea". Four projectors, three screens and sound. A must see for all those planning on dropping by our informal climbing camp being held in the area this summer.

Date: Monday 4 November
Time: 8 pm
Venue: Turnbull House, Bowen Street, City

Cheap climbing at Fergs

As an Alpine Club member you can now climb at Fergs Rock and Kayak for only $5 EVERY Monday night, and at any other time for only $8 (usually $12). Fergs will, however, be more vigilant when checking membership! Make sure you carry your card and that your membership is up to date.

For those who are interested, this is a potential saving of $2,756.00 every year! Or, if you just climb once a week on a Monday, you will save $364.00. This becomes a $284.00 PROFIT after you pay your Alpine Club membership. At least enough for a weekend trip to The Bay (or maybe the mountain if you're of that persuasion).

This doesn't take into account the fact that you will all, of course, be at the 10 Section nights we have each year....

Bouldering in the Sun on the Waterfront!

Sound good?! You can make this a reality. Until November 11 you have the chance to let the Council know that this is what you want! The council are asking for opinions on five designs for Chaffers Park, one of which will become a reality. After a lot of hard work, climbing (bouldering) has become recognised as something that should be seriously considered as an element of the park. The public has liked the idea, but to ensure it gets included we need you!

Look at the designs and have your say at the information centre beside Shed 6 (next door to Fergs), 8.30-5 Mon - Fri, or 10-4 Weekends and Public Holidays.

Alternatively, email your thoughts to Waterfrontnews@wcc.govt.nz or make a submission on the council's website, www.wcc.govt.nz, under 'Projects and News' 'Current Projects' 'Waterfront'. This website is also a great place to view the proposals

Make sure you comment! If the climbing areas look crap and need to be improved, say so! If you like a design, but it doesn't include climbing, ask why not! Would you rather boulders or a low wall? Would you use boulders? How essential are they to the park?

This is a rare opportunity to have some real influence, and get something for the climbing community, so make your voice count!

Also, the council would like to consult climbers on their thoughts, so I am getting a group of interested people together. Phone me on 385 6967, or email mob@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz if you want to take part, or know someone who should!

National Instruction Course Program

Each year the Club runs a selection of beginner and intermediate courses. Club sections run beginner courses and local section newsletters contain details and information on these trips. Intermediate courses are run through the National Office but selection of participants is also through individual sections. If you would like to attend please contact the instruction person in your section. All courses are available to members only.

Natural Pro Leading Transition Course
Sat 16 - Sun 17 November 2002. Make the transition from indoor climbing to outdoor leading on natural protection with this hands on course. Cost $75 + food and accommodation. Instructor: Ian Ruthven. Based in Taupo. Participants need to be able to climb grade 16 and be confident belayers.

Rock Instruction for Instructors
Sat 14 - Sun 15 December 2002. Learn how to pass on your rock climbing skills to others in a fun, safe and informative way. $75 + food and accommodation. Instructor: Ian Ruthven. Based in Taupo. Participants need to be able to climb confidently at the level they intend to instruct.

Adventure Rock Climbing
Sat 23 - Sun 24 November 2002. Learn more about mountain rock climbing from a professional experienced guide. $75 + food and accommodation. Instructor: Bill Atkinson. Unwin Hut, Mt Cook. Participants need to be able to climb grade 16 and be able to place natural gear.

Intermediate Mountaineering Course
Sat 12 - Sun 13 July 2003. Bring your skills up to the next level with instruction on topics such as avalanche awareness, snow anchors, belaying and glacier travel.· $99 + food and accommodation. Instructor: Bruce Hasler, venue the Remarkables. Participants need to have some experience on snow including self arresting and be happy using ice axe and crampons.

Rock Natural Pro Leading Course
Sat 14 - Sun 15 December 2002. Make the transition from indoor climbing to outdoor leading on natural protection with this hands on course. $75 + food and accommodation. Instructor: To be organised. Based in Christchurch. Participants need to be able to climb grade 16 and be able to place natural gear.

Intermediate Mountaineering
Sat 16 - Sun 17 July 2003. Bring your skills up to the next level with instruction on topics such as avalanche awareness, snow anchors, belaying and glacier travel.· $99 + food and accommodation. Instructor: Bill Atkinson. Porter Lodge. Participants need to have some experience on snow including self arresting and be happy using ice axe and crampons.

Mountaineering Instructor Training Course
Sat 2 - Sun 3 August 2003. Learn how to pass on your alpine climbing skills to others in a fun, safe and informative way. $99 + food and accommodation. Instructor: Ian Ruthven. At Mt Ruapehu. Participants need to have some experience on snow including self arresting and be happy using ice axe and crampons.

Intermediate Mountaineering
Sat 19 - Sun 20 July 2003. Bring your skills up to the next level with instruction on topics such as avalanche awareness, snow anchors, belaying and glacier travel. $99 + food and accommodation. Instructor: Ian Ruthven at Mt Ruapehu. Participants need to have some experience on snow including self arresting and be happy using ice axe and crampons.

Our website

Reminder about our web site www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

DISCUSSION GROUP - Over half of Wellington section members are now subscribed to our free email discussion group. If you would like to get or communicate articles of interest, trip details and other information then go to our web site www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz for instructions on how to join.

MOVED HOUSE?

Please notify the Club's National Administrator of your change of address as the labels for all newsletters and club publications are generated at the HQ office.

You can contact:
Richard Wesley
NZAC Administrator
PO BOX 786
CHRISTCHURCH
TEL (03) 377 7595
FAX (03) 337 7594
e mail office@alpineclub.org.nz

Climbing wall deals: More guilty pleasures

Reminder that Hangdog are continuing their anytime $8 deal.

Mt Franklin: The Return

Alan Lowrie, Ian Bennet and Caroline Duggan headed back to Nelson Lakes and up the Sabine Valley to Blue Lake Hut for the second time in 4 months in early October. The destination was once again Mt Franklin (2340m), the weather was still great and (a major bonus) there was no snow on the way to the hut. This time around we were joined by Shaun Barnett, Andrew Lynch, Craig Jones, Jeremy Bray, Wanda Stratford, John Rhodes and Matt Spittal.

Saturday dawned fine and clear. The stream was once again cold crossing in bare feet but the snow didn't start till part way up the gut leading to the basin. From there it was a steadily steepening climb out of the basin and onto the ridge. There was a decent sized cornice on the summit which Craig managed to break a piece off - not a sound I wish to hear again. After admiring the view most of us enjoyed a bum slide back into the basin and then back to the hut.

On Sunday Craig, Shaun, Andrew and John headed off early over Moss Pass and down the D'Urville while the rest of us slept in, enjoyed a lazy breakfast and a leisurely stroll back down the Sabine.

For the full details from a different perspective go to the website www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz and look under Trips/Trip Reports.

By Caroline Duggan

Eric to Pioneer and hence Lendenfeld

I flew into Pioneer Hut on August 22 with Jeremy Haines, Graham Bussell, Benj Ainsworth (all NZAC Wellington) and Glyn Jackson (NZAC Canterbury). We spent quite a bit of time ski touring round the Upper Fox Neve and had one excellent powder day (knee to thigh deep outside the hut). Weather was variable and we turned back from the base of Glacier Peak in a raging blizzard one morning. Also had some fun falling into schrunds at the base of the West Face of Haidinger after retreating from a rock route there. The weather was finally perfect on August 28 and Jeremy and I climbed Ledenfeld. We were hoping to do the North Shoulder of Tasman but turned back due to soft snow. Instead we climbed a gully on the Marcel Face of Haast. Glyn also climbed Ledenfeld and Graham and Benj turned back 50m short of the top. Lot's of climbers flew in that day so we flew out the next day.

Eric, Or the other Duggan.

Wharepapa in the rain

While everyone who was anyone went to the Bay in the long weekend, Scott, Matt and me took the long road north in search of sunshine and humidity. We found neither. But we met up and climbed with young Jesse from Alabama, where they take a week to say a sentence. We taught him to say "reckon" like down in the deep south here. It was easy. Geography as culture. Climbed at Smiths Three Sisters on Saturday. And then Sunday was spent on the re-bolted routes at Sheridan, between 25m and 30m. Some great long, overhanging, and exposed routes there in the 17-24 range on good quality rock 100m from the road side. Well worth it. On Monday we had a peak at the re-modelled but only just still free of charge Froggatts. Scotty did fine lead work here on something to the left of "Daughter to the Slaughter". You can now drive down and park at the bottom of Animal Biscuit Valley. Everything is neatly signposted and there are many new routes and boulder problems. Vast amounts of bush and scrub have been removed by bulldozer. On the way home we checked out but did not climb the new "Crack Wall" at Waipapa (it was a bit wet). Looks wonderful - a bit like parts of Auckland's quarry surrounded by the bush of Payne's Ford. A good summer crag to check out if you like a bit of jamming and bridging in the high teens and low twenties. We'll be back.

Simon

And here are some club trips for you to go on!

2-3 November 2002 - Girdlestone
A return to Girdlestone while the snow is still there. Trip leader needed. Contact:
trips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Rock Climbing trips - 16/17 November and 30/1 December 2002
A group is heading up to Mangatepopo/Whanganui Bay/Wharepapa both these weekends. Contact the trip co-ordinator.

7/8 December - Taranaki trip
Still plenty of snow for some pre alpine training. Going up via Dawson Falls/Fanthams Peak. Overnight Saturday at Syme hut. Contact: Tom Zink Ph: 495 9772, Mob: +64 21 701 267, E-mail: tom.zink@contact-energy.co.nz.

27 December - 12 January 2003 - Aspiring Region
Interest in the trip to this area is strong, with rock climbers among the party for some excellent cragging on offer in the region. To lodge your intentions email Steve at sh@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or phone 04-9738079

National Climbing Camp. Godley Valley. 6 - 11 January 2003.
Canterbury/Westland Section is organising the next national climbing camp. Centred at Separation Stream in the Godley Valley. Climbing possibilities include D'Archiac and Sybald. They are organising 4wd for access, or it's a one day walk to Godley hut. For more info contact NZAC HQ or see: http://www.nzalpine.org.nz/site_pages/main_navigation_bar/activities/climbing_camps.htm

Easter 2003 18th to 27th April 2003 - Wilkin Valley Exploration
Easter Weekend and ANZAC day = only 3 days leave for 9 days away! There are a host of peaks around the area to satisfy a range of skills. The Wilkin Valley is in Aspiring National Park. Objectives could include Castor, Pollux, Alba. Easy tramping is available. Please show your interest early, because transport booking has to be made well in advance. Contact: Don French don.f@xtra.co.nz. phone: 06 377 7117

Queens Birthday Weekend 2003 - The Inland Kaikouras
A chance to taste early winter snow in the inland Kaiakouras. Kevin Patterson is planning to get to Tapeaonuku next June. To get in quick with your place contact him at: Kevin.Patterson@nzmp.com, ph:04 566 0975

Post Monsoon 2004 (September/October)
How about a slightly longer trip - to Nepal? Several people have indicated interest in a section climbing trip to attempt several trekking peaks, Island Peak and Lobuje East have been suggested as reasonably straightforward objectives. This could include a non-climbing trek party also. Trip leaders for both are emerging as discussions go on. To indicate an initial interest email the trip co-ordinator, trips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

Other Sections trips
Don't forget there are other sections of the NZAC out there. Check out there trips by going onto the main website www.nzalpine.org.nz and clicking on the individual section newsletters. Thanks to everyone making an effort to generate club trips. Remember, trips can be any length, any level of difficulty and any size (a trip of two people is just as valid as a trip of ten). We have a trip template and plenty of suggestions for those who want to give it a go. Do contact me even if you want ideas for private trips. Nothing will be set in stone! sh@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or phone 04-9738079