Hardie days on Kanchenjunga: Not to be missed, Monday 5th November Section Night: The First Ascent of Kanchenjunga.

Illustrated talk by Norman Hardie. Norman was the deputy leader of the British party that made the first ascent of the third highest mountain in the world, back in 1955. He was in one of the summit parties. Norman is a life member of the Club and was Wellington Section secretary in 1950.

Welly High Wall $5 Tuesday night

This wall, in the old gym at Wellington high School at the top of Taranaki Street, will be open to Alpine Club members on Tuesdays. Due to double booking of the hall, the evenings now commence at 7.30 pm. Call Scotty Taylor if you want to know more on 380 0913

Fergs & Hangdog discount

Still $8 cheap to NZAC members. Take your NZAC card.

Mountain Design 20% off everything sale

Mountain design are having a sale for club members on Wednesday 31st of October. 20% off everything in the shop. Nine in the morning until nine at night. Travel Packs, Sleeping bags, Teva's, Tramping boots, Rainwear, Fleece, Tents, Climbing Gear, and more. Also super specials on selected lines 40% off Canvas packs, Strato Gore-Tex jacket was $549 Now $399, Eureka Mountain Pass Tent was $379 Now $299, and much more in store.

Hang Dog happenings

Leap into spring and Climb the World without leaving Wellington. We are having a El Cap day with a difference - ie climbing El Cap but indoors - 10 th and 11th (Evenings) December. Climb all 35 pitches over 1 or 2 nights (Salathe Wall) or East Butress (13 pitiches) for the more sane.

Options include:
A: One Night ( 6 pm until you finish!!!) speed attempt - Monday evening
B: Two nights (you go home overnight and sleep - great ledge biv that one!!!) - Monday 6 pm onwards and Tuesday 6 pm onwards.
C: The real wall rat - you have to gear haul as well!!!
D: The East Butress option for.

Options A, B, D have lead or top rope options (C is leading only). The indoor pitches will match (as best we can!!) the real pitches!!! Cost: Only $25 (for all this climbing!!!). Included is BBQ, drinks etc. (A great social time)

Also for all those who have entered there is $6 entry to HangDog for the month of Nov and lead Dec until the event.

Plus a free big wall (just the $6 entry) Big Wall gear hauling clinic on Dec 5th (Wednesday). This should be way cool - the more who get into it - WOW. Email Hang Dog, phone 589 9181 or come in for an entry form!!!

Plus Hang Dog have organised a special just for AC members. This is an incredible rope price for the Roca Roxy - 10.5mm x 50 metres dynamic. Excellent "full/whole" rope. Normal retail is $250. For the first week of Nov only!!! - we will sell these to NZAC members (on production of card) for only $185 (until stocks run out)

eVert:Vertigo by E-mail

Anyone (you do not even have to be a club member) can get this newsletter by email and be the first to read the news. Send an email to: vertigo-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz and you can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to vertigo-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Editorial: a lite-weight in the hills

I've just read Ray Jardine's prime book on lightweight hiking, with excellent application to alpine climbing. You know, the Ray Jardine, the guy who invented Friends, but - for those of us who only boulder - not the TV show! All sorts of super recommendations to lower your walking weight by wearing sneakers with the tongues cut out rather than heavy boots, taking thin cotton socks rather than thick wool or synthetics, taking a duvet rather than a sleeping bag and sharing it with someone, using a fly rather than a tent etc. etc.

However, I reckon he does not go far enough. Here's some additional tips I've thought of for lightening your load, and remember, I'm offering them for free rather than for $44.95 like Ray's book.

Get a plastic shopping bag - don't worry, you won't be carrying it, its just to gather the detritus you've discarded for weighing. First, trim your toenails and place them in the bag. You'll feel lighter - trust me. Then clip your fingernails. Again, pop them into the bag. Give yourself a number one with a set of clippers. Place the results in the bag.

If you don't feel lighter already, I'm a banana! Now, this is where it gets personal. Here's a tip from the swimming legend Ian Thorpe - you go faster without body hair. Guys, this is going to hurt. Girls, this is already hurting. Shave or wax, it's your choice. Results into the bag.

Now I'm going to get even more personal - lose some weight. We could (almost all) stand losing a few kgs of body fat. Cut out some of that sugar and fat. For every kilo you lose, scoop the equivalent results out of a margarine container and add it to the shopping bag. You'll feel lighter, trust me.

Next, buy a thong - the skimpier the better. Silk's best. This is an aside, but for aesthetic reasons, I recommend you only buy in red or black. Throw out those Y fronts and climb in your new underwear. You'll feel sexier on that crux pitch. And you'll be lighter. It'll be easier to find someone to share your cosy duvet with on those cold alpine nights! Put the equivalent weight saved into the shopping bag.

Now to the weigh in. Chuck the shopping bag on the scales. If you haven't got rid of at least 10kg using my method, I'm a mango!

Brilliant discussion forum

A forum has been set up for use by Wellington NZAC members. Please use it considerately to communicate articles of interest, trip details, and other information. Email messages to discussion@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz If you would like to subscribe to this forum, send an email to discussion-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz
You can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to discussion-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Aberrant rock web-sites

Check out The New Zealand Alpine Club (National Office) web page which has lots of information, reasons to join the club, and even a form to sign up on line. www.nzalpine.org.nz. Also remember to check out our own Wellington Section web page at nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

And there is a interesting site worth checking out at www.climb.co.nz that has location guides for just about every obscure little corner of New Zealand (of the North Island at least!).
Try John Palmer's www.powerband.org.nz too.

Springtime trips

Tasman Saddle, Mt Cook NP. 23 November-2 December.
Pete De Joux is offering the ultimate introduction to the wonderful world of Mt Cook National Park. Flexible small trip, designed as a first-time trip to the Mt Cook region, esp. for students from AIC2001 or AIC2000. Peaks in this area include Mt Aylmer 2608m, Hochstetter Dome 2823m, Elie de Beaumont 3111m. Fly in to Tasman Saddle by ski plane. Out by ski plane, or walk if you're keen (or stupid). Climb by day; enjoy great food and company by night. (Ski-plane costs would be about $300pp). "Great opportunity to practise safe glacier travel, route finding, weather observation and to climb actual peaks in NZ's premium mountaineering region"-or combine to share flight costs…..
Contact : peter.dejoux@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 570-1777 (wk), 478-1017 (hm).

March 2002
Easter Gardening. 27 March-1 April 2002.
Don French is heading to the Garden of Eden from Clyde, with eyes on Mt Tyndall. Don't miss out. This is sure to be a great gnarly adventure lead by one of the great gnarly adventurers. Get in early and secure a place, Contact: don.f@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 06 377 7117.

Watch this space…
Thanks from Phil to everyone making an effort to generate club trips. Remember, contact trips co-ordinator if you have any ideas for trips-destinations, leaders, dates, level of (in)competence, activities, queries about listed trips, or even if you'd like to help in organising trips. Nothing will be set in stone! Phil Suisted-ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0855.

News

THE J.B.G.T.*

Friday evening; we meet at John's to eat his delicious pizzas and other communal food and ruin our power-to-weight ratios. Of the other 16 people, I'm meeting 87.5% for the first time, but two days later they're 100% friends.

With the forecast dismal, we expect to spend much time enjoying the comforts of the Massey University Alpine Club hut, but early on Saturday morning the cloud lifts, then breaks. We disperse: some to Turoa's frozen waterfall, some for a wander around the slopes; Shane snowboards until any ordinary mortal would drop dead, then scampers for the summit of Tahurangi. Sally, Steph and Jane cruise to the summit for lunch. We watch John power up the waterfall, then, inspired, try it ourselves with varying degrees of success. Gary, recently returned from Babyville, patiently belays us, then reasserts his style on the climbing world by ascending the rotten pillar not once, but twice. Others practise mountaineering rituals like belaying, placing ice screws and perfecting excuses.

Sunday's another brilliant day. Five of us, led by Gary, climb the south-west face of Girdlestone in 2 ropes of 2, with 1 ropeless and clutching an ice axe that's excellent for grubbing thistles. John takes a party along the Tahurangi-Girdlestone ridge; a great confidence builder for those with little experience of traversing steep slopes.

Blue light in the heart of sculptured ice; the rush and tinkle of ice showers as sastrugi collapses; the bite and creak of crampons... far off, the sound of someone hammering a snowstake. A tiny figure crosses the huge white plain of the Mangaheuheu neve. At lunchtime in the lee of the ridge, Steve produces a can of Tui but is shamed into returning it (unopened) to his pack. Details become memories...

Perhaps we were lucky with the weather, the snow conditions and all those things that make a superb trip. But luck was at most a catalyst - without the great organisation and excellent spirit, luck would have had nothing to work on. Thanks everyone - and especially John.

the John Barnes' Girdlestone Trip; a.k.a. John's Bloody Good Trip.


Centennial Trip report

Don French, Dave Henwood, Alan Lowrie and Matthew Stevens went to Centennial hut for a week in the beginning of October. Don and Dave did Spenser, Conway, Aurora and Frederick Gardiner. Matt and Alan did the Minarets. Matt and Alan also tried Spenser, but got hit by falling lumps of ice and retreated in humiliation and opprobrium. The four then skied and walked out down the Fritz range to Castle Rocks Huts and out to Franz Josef.



Paske: The Final Frontier It's a Mountain Jim, but not that we see it!

To boldly go where no-one has gone before - well not many at least . Since our aborted trip into the Paske Valley Queens Birthday 2000, just one page of the log book had been used.

The ferry terminal was the meeting place for another Alan Lowrie lead expedition, hopefully another "tick" on the list. A heavy rain warning had been issued for the Nelson area and for once they got it right. We departed Picton in the pouring rain, a quick stop en route to collect the key then it was on to St Arnaud to find some shelter for the night.

The day dawned fine but overcast. After leaving the Van Mazda Enterprise we followed the Rainbow (river). Onwards we drifted crossing and re-crossing the milkyway (coloured) river. The galaxy (grass) was always greener on the other side. Eventually the last rainbow and other rivers were crossed for what seemed like the millionth cold time (where was Scotty to beam us up when we needed him Jim?). Late in the evening of the 21st century it was a weary lot that arrived at the mighty Paske Space Station (6 bunks but lots of tent space).

Dawn arrived early in the outer reaches of space as 9 pairs of legs plunged yet again through Paske Creek (a night of heavy rain had not made the river any lower or warmer). A false trail saw an hour lost before Captain Al courageously led us up the route which by-passed a waterfall en route to the saddle. Andy and Fraser lead the assault from there, plugging steps in less than perfect snow and through loose rock and scree. The inside of the cloud was admired by all.

It was only thanks to Alan's altimeter that we finally knew we had gone as far as we could (Jim's was telling us we were at 62,884m - a sterling days effort by any standard). Snow fell and food was eaten, nine persons were counted and it was back to the hut in the pouring rain.

You got it, the morning dawned clear, so it was out with the sunhats and sunscreen for the walk back out the valley. With the rivers down and no real time restraints it was a leisurely, though tiring wander, back to the Enterprise and off to the planet St Arnaud for showers and beer.

Thanks to Alan and Jim for a superbly organised and run trip!

Details:
Alan Lowrie, Andy Reisinger, Ben Marsland, Caroline Duggan, Fraser Crichton, Jim Watt, Kevin Martin, Lennox Vellekoop, Maria Cassidy and Veronika Meduna headed up the Rainbow River and Paske Creek and climbed Mt Paske (2216m), Labour Weekend 2001.

Gear wanted, and not wanted, and hence for sale or purchase

Get to the Bay in style: buy a 1989 Subaru Station Wagon for 2K, current wof
Contact Scott Taylor ph. 380-0913, home.

Your old climbing shoes donated for Spring Rockers
Contact someone who knows about spring rock, e.g. Scott Taylor ph. 380-0913, home.

Wanted: a reverse curve ice hammer
Contact Peter Rowe, Day ph. 9200-213 or night 476-3522

Wanted: aid climbing gear (hammer, etriers, & pitons)
Contact the Editor at newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

Wanted: Strap-on crampons
I am after a pair of strap-on crampons for about size 9 boots. my contact details are james@solnet.co.nz, phone (04)4620743

For sale: ROCK climbing shoes
To fit 44 (9 1/2) feet. Boreal Aces, $80. Boreal Vector, $90. Both sets have new sticky C4 resoles (cost $60). Ph Mark, (025) 201-8681

For sale: Plastic climbing boots.
ASOLO Supersofts size 5 UK (7 US) $150 neg. Contact Lisa Winthrop, ph 021 110 9821, email WinthropL@maf.govt.nz

Last words

Attended on his deathbed by a Catholic priest, Voltaire was invited to denounce the Devil. "Sir", Voltaire replied, "now is not the time to make new enemies".