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May 2005 - COLIN MONTEATH
Well-known writer, photographer and climber
Colin Monteath will be the guest speaker this month. He
will be talking and showing slides of his 2004 "Skiing
to K2" expedition. 2004 was the 50th anniversary of
the first (Italian) ascent of K2. In March/April 2004 Colin
and 3 other Kiwis skied up Pakistan's Baltoro Glacier to
the base of the Abruzzi Ridge in celebration of the first
ascent. Don't miss this talk, it will be a classic.
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Section trips news
Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter
@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories.
Climbing in mountainous Holland
Today was so warm I was in shorts and cut off t-shirt - weird
how fast it changes from that deep snow a few weeks ago, but nice
to stroll all relaxed without worrying about losing your feet
from under you.
I got a tram to central station determined to find the mythical
climbing wall and after many lost turns and advice from the science
museum host going way beyond her duty and calling a friend at
home who knew what I was trying to describe, was pointed in the
direction of a building by the distant train tracks across two
canals, of corrugated iron lying on a sixty degree angle and covered
in graffiti. As I got closer saw what looked like many climber
types reclining on grass by water's edge, drinking wine and beer.
(Drinking wine and beer? In daylight? This is weird, I thought,
but they looked like climbers, shorts and singlets, some tattoos,
less buttoned down than the usual black-shoed Amsterdammer). Convinced
I was heading in the right direction, but further confusion, because
the only way I could see to get to them was by swimming the well-below
sea-level, non-tidal, coffee-with-milk-coloured brown water of
the canal (Non tidal? Conceptually hard for a coastal kiwi, as
well as disgusting looking)
Eventually I managed to cross the gracht (canal) by cutting across
the train tracks that lead to Germany then Poland and eventually
Russia, and, now very scared, the desolation seedy as hell, watching
out for mafia in non-descript red two-door Mercedes, managed to
get to this outpost stuck on an island of weeds on the outer dykes
of Amsterdam.
When I got there it was very busy (they were just finishing a
bouldering comp) and I talked to the dutch operator guy who said
it was great to have a kiwi who might want to come here regularly,
and he touched my arm like an old friend, saying he had just holidayed
in NZ (with his girlfriend by the way) (and had climbed round
ChCh). On the notice board are ads from various Aussie's looking
for climbing partners so I'll call them soon, that will be cool.
Although my class
mates at the writing course, the dutch ones, as soon as I mention
climbing, want me to introduce them to the experience, so I could
be busy. There are no self-locking Grigris though, so teaching
them good ATC behaviour will be essential to minimise my elvis
legs at the top of this (to me) very high plywood wall. (It is
way higher than Fergs).
The nice thing about this wall, (and Amsterdam in general), is
that at your local climbing wall, or swimming pool or menache
(sp?) (indoor horse stable) - (where I watched indoor synchronised
horse riding to disco music while having a beer - I know, I can't
believe it either, and I wasn't tripping), is that after a climb
you can sit right in the middle of the walls and watch while having
a beer or coffee and wind down while your mates are still punishing
themselves.
So that's climbing in Amsterdam. Will let you know how it is
going. I have heard there is another wall nearby inside an old
church, so I'll keep you posted. Probably find a free bible at
the top of anything above a twenty. But now know for sure that
when you are lowered from the rush of your on-sight or red point
that if you need it, there will always be a table with a coffee
or beer to suck on while you think about it.
Colin Hodson
Olivine Ice Plateau
In March, Vanessa Johnson and Kris Persson went tramping for 11
days in the Olivine Wilderness Area. The trip included a crossing
of the Olivine Ice Plateau, unfortunately in pretty bad weather
and low visibility. The Plateau was approached via the Dart River,
Beans Burn, Olivine and Forgotten Rivers. We descended the glacier
just south of Futurity rock and exited via Lake Williamson, Williamson
River and up Arawhata River.
High points included some brilliant mountain scenery and seeing
kaka, morepork, blue duck and other birds. A low point was a southerly
storm with 100 km/h winds, which caused a tent pole on my $1100
alpine tent to snap and, during the subsequent evacuation, Vanessa
to fall and injure her knee in the slippery conditions. A 12 hour,
3 km bush bash through a particularly bush lawyer infested section
is also something we could have done without.
All in all, a fantastic time had. Some photos here:
http://www.lysator.liu.se/~kripe/foton/Olivines-Mar_2005/
Kris Persson
Digital Images
Digital Images: emailing, on-screen viewing and projecting.
Ever downloaded a friend's emailed photo and had to wait half
an hour for it to arrive? And when it did, you were looking at
a closeup of someone's earwax?
These are common problems, but they're easily fixed. All you
need, other than your image files and a computer, is software
that allows you to change the resolution and dimensions (width
x height) of the image. Many programs let you do this and it's
likely that you got this type of software with your camera. Otherwise,
you can get FastStone Image Viewer (free) at www.Faststone.org
or Irfanview (also free) at www.irfanview.net. The best of the
mainstream commercial programs is Adobe Photoshop Elements (the
latest version, 3.0, is $185 at www.photo.co.nz).
JARGON:
It's worth the effort of understanding these terms and their relationships.
File size is the amount of disk space or memory used by the image
file. It's measured in Kilobytes (Kb) or Megabytes (Mb). Pixels
are the tiny squares that form the image, like the tiles of a
mosaic. Pixel dimensions refers to the number of pixels the image
contains, as width x height (e.g., 3504 x 2336). Document dimensions
means the size of the printed image (e.g., 15 x 10 cm). Image
dimensions can refer to either pixel or document dimensions and
unfortunately you need to know which of these your program means.
Finally, resolution is the density of pixels in your image and
is usually quoted as pixels per inch (ppi).
resolution = pixel dimensions / document dimensions
You can also think of resolution as the size of each pixel. If
you make your print smaller but keep the pixel dimensions unchanged,
you increase the resolution of the photo, because each pixel is
now smaller. [Note: Unfortunately, some programs (like FastStone
Image Viewer) use "dots per inch" (dpi), which is the
usual term for printer resolution-an entirely unrelated factor.]
Resolution is a linear dimension, so an image that has twice
the resolution (say 300 ppi instead of 150 ppi) will have four
times the number of pixels in a given area. Consequently its file
size will be much greater .
EMAILING AND ON-SCREEN VIEWING:
For everything other than printing, you need only low-resolution
images. Most monitors display images at 72 or 96 ppi; if your
image has a resolution of 300 ppi then it will look no better
but the file size will be roughly 10-16 times greater and it will
take much longer to email. If you're emailing images for on-screen
viewing, or putting them on a website, keep the resolution at
or below 96 ppi.
The other thing you must do is make sure your photo fits nicely
on the screen. For emailing, I'd suggest setting the width for
landscape-formatted photos to no more than 800 pixels (600 is
usually plenty), as this allows them to fit within the viewing
window of most programs. Portrait formats are trickier. If you
keep them less than 400-500 pixels high so that they'll probably
fit in a viewing window, they'll only be roughly 300 pixels wide.
This is fine for most purposes, but the image will appear quite
small and will certainly lack the impact of the landscape formatted
images. The decision is yours. (Note: Some viewing software will
automatically resize the image to fit in the window, or your friend
can do this herself. However, this sometimes degrades the image).
To use the image as a full-screen desktop wallpaper, you need
to know the monitor's "screen resolution" (width in
pixels x height in pixels) (Note: This might better be termed
screen dimensions. Yes, I know it's confusing, but that's Windows).
The most common is 1024 x 768; some might still be 800 x 600 and
some are greater than 1024 x 768. If your image doesn't fit these
dimensions, you can crop it to fit, or accept some of the desktop's
background colour showing; otherwise Windows will cut bits off
it for you.
Now for the the important part-HOW TO DO IT. These are
the steps in Photoshop Elements:
· In the main menu, choose "Image>Resize";
· Make sure that the boxes labelled "Constrain image
proportions" and "Resample image" are ticked;
· Change "Resolution" to 96 ppi;
· Change "Width" or "Height" in "Pixel
dimensions" to an appropriate value, as discussed above.
· Save the file in JPEG (e.g., Pete_Cratering.jpg) format,
with a compression value of 60%. In Photoshop Elements, use the
"File>Save for Web" option. Higher quality values,
e.g. 80%, are usually indistinguishable on screen, but they increase
the file size.
Warning!! Use a different filename from your original file! Otherwise
you'll overwrite your original file with the new, low-resolution
version. Also, when you close the file, the program will probably
ask you whether you want to save it-choose "No".
SLIDESHOWS:
I won't go into detail, but here are the crucial points:
If you're giving a slide show through a data projector, do a
dry run first! Make sure everything works ok.
Assuming the computer's "screen resolution" is 1024
x 768, prepare your image files as if you were viewing them on-screen:
1. Change the resolution to 96 or 72 ppi, and
2. Set the longest dimension to 768 pixels if you want portrait
and landscape images to have similar visual impact. If you don't
mind the portrait-formatted images appearing much smaller, you
can set the width of the landscape images to 1024 pixels.
3. Save as a JPEG with 60% compression (again using a different
filename).
FINALLY...
In summary, for everything other than printing, do two things:
drop the resolution to 96 ppi and reduce the pixel dimensions
so that the image fits within the screen. Of course, if you want
to email a photo for someone to print, you need to keep the resolution
up around 300 ppi. If you have a bunch of those, please do those
of us with dial-up connections a favour: burn the photos onto
disc and post them. Thanks!
Pete McGregor
Pete's Post from Antarctica
In my spare time I've been ice climbing in the nearby icefalls
with members of the SAR team. (and dressing in women's clothes.
Contact me if you want the photo. I take bribes - Ed) Other
than that my time has been busy with work. The days are getting
very short, and by the time this is published our last sunset
will have occurred. Temperatures are moderately cold, with minus
25 being normal. The coldest I've seen so far is minus 37, but
it will get much colder once we lose the sun.
We have to create our own entertainment down here (Hence the
women's clothing. He has been waiting years for the chance - Ed).
This is something that happened two weeks ago:
Every Friday night we hold a darts tournament. On this particular
evening, South Pole Station (USA) joined us via HF radio. Americans
came over to Scott Base from McMurdo Station. Other bases around
Antarctica were invited, but many of them operate in different
time-zones and were unable to participate via radio.
The Italian station at Terranova Bay is closed for the winter.
The departing Italians normally stay a night at Scott Base as
they head home.
The person looking after the HF radio temporarily installed in
the Scott Base bar heard the following signal:
Scott-a Base-a, Scott-a Base-a this is Terranova, Terranova.
Can you hear-a
us-a. Over
REPLY Terranova, this is Scott Base receiving. Go ahead, over.
Scott-a Base-a this is Terranova, can-a we join-a your darts-a
please-a.
REPLY Terranova, this is Scott Base. Sure. We'd be delighted
for you to
join us. Please advise the names of those playing. Over.
Scott-a Base-a this is Terranova. Our names-a are Guiseppie,
Mario and-a
Roberto, over.
REPLY Terranova, this is Scott Base. Standby while we make sure
everybody
else is ready, over.
South Pole, South Pole this is Scott Base. We are being joined
tonight by
the Italians at Mario Zuchelli Station at Terranova Bay, over.
The darts competition proceeded over the next hour or so, with
the Italians just managing to stay ahead of the others. Each team
announced their scores from every throw to the radio operator
at Scott Base, who was keeping the totals on a spreadsheet. Whenever
the South Pole threw their darts well, the lucky Italians managed
slightly better. Eventually the Italians won. South Pole were
only slightly behind, and Scott Base came last.
At that point we thought we should confess that we were actually
two New Zealanders, not three Italians. We were in my office at
Scott Base talking on a ham radio. We reminded them that Mario
Zuchelli Station at Terranova Bay was closed for the winter, and
that people should have remembered farewelling the Italians when
they stayed at Scott Base on the way out.
It was very funny, and was hard to carry off without laughing
on the radio.
Pete de Joux from Antarctic
Looking Ahead - Dates for Diaries
Put the times and dates of two more NZAC meetings into your diaries
now. They are:
· 7:30 pm, Sunday, 8 May: Banff is back in town!
For the third year in a row, the Wellington section of the New
Zealand Alpine Club will be showing a selection of the best films
from the last Banff Mountain Film Festival. We've booked the Paramount
Theatre for the occasion. Tickets are available from outdoor equipment
stores such as Bivouac, Mainly Tramping, and Mountain Designs.
Tickets are selling like hot cakes, so be quick or be disappointed
· 8:00 pm, Monday, 13 June: The Wellington section's
annual photographic competition. This year there's a new judge
- Paul Clarke, who showed his own first-class photos about climbing
Kenya's remotest mountain to the Wellington section in late 2003.
Wellington section member, Peter Laurenson, fared outstandingly
well in last year's national photo competition, so we're looking
forward to seeing lots of good entries in this year's Wellington
section photo comp. Start sorting your slides now
Further
details and an entry form are contained elsewhere in this issue
of VertiGO.
For Sale/Wanted to buy
Personal Locator Beacon
I have an emergency locater beacon. When I am not using it,
which is quite e few weekends, it is essentially a useless lump
of plastic. If people want to borrow it for their weekend trips,
then thay can borrow it off me. It is hardly going to depreciate
with use. Club members might as well get as much use out of it
as possible. I just hope that while people carry it, they don't
have to "use" it. Know what I mean?
Anyway, the offer is there. People can contact me on this e-mail
address if they want to borrow it.
Sam - Samuel.Newton@nzpost.co.nz
Adjustable 12 point crampons with key in Charlet Moset crampon
bag. Good condition. $140.
Contact Chris on 021 307 353.
Makalu La Sportiva boots, mens size 41 European. Hardly worn
though have been snow sealed, in excellent condition. $200neg,
phone Erin 021 339382 or email erinpentie@yahoo.com
For Sale:
· Mountain Designs Fox alpine pack 50L -used once and decided
got too many
packs! New $449, Sell $150
· Adidas Womens running shoes s9 US -Brand new, been sitting
around for
few months. New $289, Sell $150
· Mountain Designs Outrace pack (Adventure racing/Running)
-Been used few
times, as new. New around $110, Sell $50
· Thermarest explorer (short) Thick and comfy. Sell $40
· Asolo AFS Supersoft (Plastics) Mens s9 1/2 UK -Used few
times,
minor surface scuffs, wrong fit for my foot. Sell $150
Items in Wellington, Pics Available: Email Matt mattm@ampro.co.nz
Quiz Number 16
THE ANSWER TO QUIZ NUMBER 16
Our aged chairperson (his description not mine! - Ed), Nigel
Roberts, took offence at the following statement: "He was
now 65 years of age, an age when most mountaineers have hung up
their ice axe and retired to the rocking chair." Consequently,
quiz number 16 was "Who was that statement made about, and
who made that statement?"
Bob McKerrow said it about Ebenezer Teichelmann. Only one correct
answer was emailed to Nigel Roberts, so Peter Pohl took home a
bottle of French white wine from the 4 April section night meeting.
Congratulations, Peter (who has said he's going to wait until
his wife Vivienne returns from the Annapurna Sanctuary before
opening his prize)!
QUIZ NUMBER 17
Everest was climbed in 1953; while K2 and Cho Oyu were first
climbed in 1954. Quiz number 17 is, therefore, Which 8,000 metre
peaks (if any) were first climbed in 1955, and who were the first
New Zealanders to climb any 8,000 metre peaks first climbed in
1955?
Email your answers to NR@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz by no later
than noon on Sunday, 1 May. Be sure to put Quiz Number 17 in the
email's subject line (or else your email is highly likely to be
destroyed as spam). Because the winning entry will be drawn by
Colin Monteath before his talk at the section night meeting Monday,
2 May, the winner of Quiz Number 17 will receive a bottle of Canterbury
wine.
And here are the club trips ....
Wellington Section Trips - Trips are a key
part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no
matter how vague, come and chat to Michele Domaneschi or Rachel
Depree (trips
@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)
Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any
size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting,
and we can help you get going.
See you in the hills! WE NEED MORE TRIPS! COME ON GUYS
Trips for the Calendar for the rest of 2005
Check out the proposed and planned new list for 2005. We need
trip organisers to put their hands up for what are bound to be
outstanding adventures. There's something for everyone in here
with a mix of snow, rock and even a spot of ski touring.
| Mt Rolleston Queens Birthday
Weekend TRIP NOW FULL |
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Trip type:
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Alpine
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Level:
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Intermediate-Advanced
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Organiser:
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Merewyn Ellis
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Rolleston via Rome Ridge, Arthur's Pass.. Take a day and
make it a 4 day weekend.
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Quotes to make you think?
"The best climber in the world is the one who's having the
most fun."
"Some of the world's greatest feats were accomplished by
people not smart enough to know they were impossible."
"They say you can't do it, but sometimes it doesn't always
work."
"No snowflake in an avalanche ever feels responsible."
"Alcohol, firearms and a 4 wheel drive can go a long ways
towards making a rain day into a fun rest day."
Photo Comp 2005
13 June - Wellington Section Photo Competition
It's that time of the year again: make use of the 'in between'
autumn weather to sort through your photo collections for those
champion shots.
If you haven't had any luck winning Nigel over during the last
couple of years, take heart! Paul Clarke will be judging this
time around.
There will as usual be six categories (alpine activity, alpine
nature, alpine general, rock, humour, and photojournalism) and,
as usual, entries should be delivered to Mainly Tramping. In a
break with tradition, however, Mainly Tramping will be located
in the Grand Arcade, at the bottom end of Willis St.
So rip, cut, print or photocopy the entry form off the back of
this newsletter, and get it and your pictures in to Mainly Tramping
- in the Grand Arcade - by 4pm on 3 June.

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