Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first unimpeded Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meetings and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea and coffee afterwards.

Meet for dinner at the Backbencher public bar at 6.30 and on to Turnbull House at 7.30 pm for a catch up

Ken Stokes arriving on summit of Mt Talbot, Darrans

Same old same old

Richard Thomson, with Richard Turner and Dave Vass, returned to Turner's Eyrie in the Central Darrans in late March and April, this time starting at Moraine Creek and climbing a steep and slimy fissure to reach Rainbow Lake, the Te Puoho Glacier and the north shoulder of Karetai.

Due to the lateness of the season, travelling conditions were just a little less grippy than usual, and required constant vigilance. The lichens seemed to have happily absorbed plenty of moisture from the heavy snowfall earlier in March, while verglass and light snow added to the excitement at higher altitudes.

After a couple of days of rain, spent making further home improvements to the bivvy, they emerged to climb a new route on the East Face of Karetai, nine pitches, crux grade 22, the last three pitches were climbed in the full moon light. Deciding that there is not nearly enough macho posturing in that part of the world, they tentatively called the route the Studly Buttress.
The route out was down the Cleft into Cleft Creek - surely one of the most beautiful alpine valleys in New Zealand - where the keas were extremely displeased to be kicked out of their rock bivvy for a night. The next night, they located and admired the stonemasonry of the authentic Gill-Houghton bivvy rock (see the book Mountain Midsummer).
The trip ended in fine style, with a bracing swim across the Hollyford River.

Richard Thomson

FROG BUTTRESS

Former Wellington section member Mike O'Brien is currently on an indefinite climbing trip around Australia in a very unreliable campervan. Lured by promise of fame and fortune, he has agreed to send in the odd report in the crags he visits. When not climbing he enjoys sitting on the beach, waiting for his campervan to start. When he's lucky this can take weeks…..
Mike heard a few section members were planning a trip to Frog Buttress and provided me with this report:

The smooth soaring cracks of Frog Buttress offer wonderful user friendly climbing, and make Frog the place to learn the art of jamming. Climbing with the warm winter sun on your back is the perfect way to escape the Wellington winter. Although you'll find the first few days frustrating, you'll be sad to leave by the end of your stay!

Location: Queensland, one hours drive inland from Brisbane. Frog Buttress is located on Mt French, above Boonah, a tiny rural town (and not far from Pauline Hanson's stomping ground). From Boonah, a 15 minute drive up the hill will see you at the camp/car park, conveniently located on top of the crag. The climbs are a 5 minute stroll from here.

Climbing: Trad routes up to 45m long, with rap stations scattered along the top of the crag. Bring a full trad rack, with a double set of cams if possible. Double ropes are useful. There are a few hard and poorly bolted sport routes. Over 400 routes in total.

Grades: 9 - 31. Best in the 18 - 23 range. Avoid climb under 15, as they invariably involve cracks too wide to protect, grovely chimneys, ledges that will cripple you if you fall, and occasionally all of the above.

Season: Between April and September

Accommodation: You can camp above the crag (see the dreadful Queensland Park Service website below - good luck! And remember its Mt French, not Frog Buttress!). Otherwise stay in one of the four pubs in Boonah.

Services: Everything but climbing gear is available in Boonah…

Guidebook: Before leaving NZ go to the Qurank website and spend time printing 'Andy's Cheap and Nasty Guide' in A3 format. It's great. Don't waste money on Scott Camps 'Frog Buttress', 1989, A Wild Publications, Melbourne.

References: www.qurank.com is a great website with an active forum, where you can get the answer to any climbing/Frog Buttress related question. Also download Andy's guide from here. www.epa.qld.goc.au for camping info.
And Remember: You'll learn to jam better if you don't tape up, and, resist the urge to kill the friendly possums! They're protected here!

Mike O'Brien

SKI MOUNTAINEERING IN THE AXIS OF GOOD

From Easter to Anzac Weekend and beyond John Wild, Wilf Dickerson, Clinton Wadsworth and John Nankervis were in Iran with touring skis and other mountain paraphernalia. In between bouts of mosque watching, carpet bagging, eating and talking to many friendly Persians they had a day at the Dizin ski field (top at 3,600 metres) and a week ski touring in the Alborz Mountains. Starting from Rudbarak ( 5 hours northwest of Tehran by road) where there is a capacious Iranian Mountaineering Federation lodge, they went up the Sardab Rud (river) and used camps at 2,850 and 3,550 metres as ski mountaineering bases. They climbed Menareh
(4,378m) and the North and High peaks of Gardon Kuh (4,402m). An attempt on Alam Kuh (4,850m and Iran's second highest) was foiled just short of the top by a snowstorm. There are endless opportunities for ski touring, not only in the Alborz but also in the Zagros mountains in the south and the ranges of the northwest near the Turkish and Armenian frontiers. And Iranian climbers are very helpful, friendly, and keen to know more about New Zealand.

John Nankervis

AVALANCHE STAGE ONE COURSE

An Avalanche Stage 1 course is being run on Whakapapa Ski field from 24th - 31st August 2007.
It is based at Levin-Waiopehu Ski club hut at the Top of the Bruce.

The course cost is $650 inc. GST for NZ residents.
Costs include all accommodation, food, course material and tuition.

Tutors will be Bill Atkinson and Henry Worsp.
If you are interested in attending please email your postal address and enrolment forms will be forwarded.

Wayne Putt
Programme Manager
Outdoor Adventure
Whitireia Polytechnic
Mohuia Cres.
Porirua
(04) 2384649
(027) 271 8293
w.putt@whitireia.ac.nz

NON NZAC GUIDEBOOK PRICE REVIEW

The Club is currently reviewing the prices and stock levels of its NON-NZAC published guidebooks. Some items will no longer be available once stock runs out and others may be increasing in price.

If you wish to take advantage of the currently advertised prices please have any orders through to Margaret at the National Office before July 1st. New prices will be advertised in the next Climber mag insert and updated on the website. A price increase for Rock Climbing Getting Started from $25 - $35 is already in effect due to the higher price of a newly reprinted edition. Margaret@ alpineclub.org.nz

ROCK-CLIMBING GRADING FOR DUMMIES

Simone Chiaretta has written a blog with a satirical twist on the rock climbing grading system, especially the French one. He thought you might find it fun, but apologies in advance for his English (looks pretty impressive to me!)

So check it out: http://codeclimber.net.nz/archive/2007/04/29/Rock-Climbing-grading-for-dummies.aspx

SCARPA 2007 SKI MOUNTAINEERING RACES

A brand new alpine challenge, the Scarpa 2007 NZ ski mountaineering race series, will be run this winter at four different ski resorts in the North and South Islands.

A ski mountaineering race is just that, using mountaineering, touring and skiing skills to ascend and descend a marked course through challenging winter alpine terrain. It sounds like hard work, and it is, but it's also a lot of fun and a great personal satisfaction. Rather like entering your first mountain bike race, and it gives a huge boost to your recreational touring.

There are going to be recreational and race classes and participation is the name of the game. It's achievable to anyone with good basic mountaineering and skiing skills. Ski, telemark, splitboard and snowshoe/board touring setups are all welcome.

The four events will be held at Turoa, Ohau, Temple Basin and Craigieburn. We have some pretty good prizes lined up from our sponsors and NZAC members will get a discount on entry fees.
Check out the brand spanking new website... www.skimonz.com and get into what will be a new and enjoyably different day out for the back country community.

With the up coming Scarpa Ski Mountaineering Race Series this winter there will be some free ski mountaineering race video/slide shows around the South Island. For those in the southern lakes there will be shows in Queenstown at R&R Sports, 20th June and in Wanaka at Mainly Tramping, 21st June, as well as Christchurch at R&R Sports, 26 th June.

The first 5 people in the door at each video/slide show will receive free entry to one of the races of their choice (not including lift ticket, if required). The shows will have videos form the 2006 world ski mountaineering world champs, world cup races in North America and tutorial videos on how to become a faster back country skier.

For more info e-mail nzinfo@skimountaineering.org or go to www.skimonz.com

Craig Martella, Nelson Marlborough Section

FOR SALE/WANTED TO BUY

FOR SALE :
Boots: Asolo AFS Guida Size UK10/Euro 44 $150.00
Crampons: Black Diamond Sabretooth $100.00
Ice Screw: Black Diamond Express Turbo 16cm $50.00
Ice Axe & Hammer: Black Diamond Rage $200.00 each
Headlamp: Petzel Duo Belt 5 LED + Halogen $50.00
Snow Stake $10.00
Used Only On 2 Trips
Call Justin at Work (04) 470 7065 or Home (04) 562 7663

Lose the Weight, Not the Performance

Ski Trab, a small, 60yr old, family owned ski company from Bormio, Italy, world renowned for producing light weight, high performance and high quality skis is finally available in NZ.
Ski mountaineering racers, mountain guides, ski patrollers and back country enthusiasts throughout Europe and North America have for years "lost the weight, but not the performance" and now New Zealand skiers can too.
This are the lightest skis on the NZ market and at the 2007 winter special intro price the cheapest to.
New Zealand Alpine Club members receive a further discount on the 2007 winter special intro price

Duo FreeRando
Dimensions: 112/110-79-96
Weight:1250gr/164cm (per ski)
Sizes(cm):157, 164, 171, 178
RRP $1199, 2007 winter special intro price-$999
NZAC member price $899!

Stelvio FreeRide
Dimensions: 117/115-84-105
Weight:1610/171cm (per ski)
Sizes(cm):164, 171, 178, 185
RRP$1199, 2007 winter special intro price-$999
NZAC member price $899!

Go to www.iclimb.co.nz
or for a full price list and catalogue e-mail grant@skimountaineering.org

WANTED:
Supergaiters, contact kester, 027 4266 173 or kesterbrown@gmail.com

CAN YOU HELP?
"I am hoping you will be able to help me. I am off to Pakistan at the end of July to climb Mt Spantik in the Karakoram (7027m).
I am trying to locate someone who may have a pair of 8000meter boots I can hire and I thought you may be able to point me in the correct direction for this.I have emailed Dennis at the central NI club but nothing available there.So I am trying a bit further afield.
Because of severe frost nip 5 years ago I now find my toes get very cold very easily and I don't want to trust my Plastics on this trip. Again I hope you will be able to help.
The size I am requiring will need to be a minimum of 9.and a half or 43.
Thank you for your time.
Mike Cosgrove
Kihikihi
TeAwamutu
07 8703040"

OVER 70'S TRAVEL INSURANCE

From Head Office: "Thanks to the enquiries of Trevor Chinn, we have approached our travel insurance provider on behalf of our ever-adventurous, over 70 year old climbers. They have come back with permanent endorsement to now cover NZAC members between the ages of 70-75yrs for any extra 10% premium. They will also consider 76 year+ applications on a case-by-case basis. "

Please see this webpage for more travel insurance information: http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=23

Trips for the Calendar for 2007 so far…

20-22Jul - Ruapehu North - Te Heu Heu, Dome, and Paretetaitonga Leader TBA - Level = AIC Graduate and up to 2-3 years experience

The plan is to drive up to Whakapapa, and climb up to Delta Corner Hut on Friday night. On Saturday we will stroll up to the crater, inspect the Dome shelter (2672m) and attempt Paratetaitonga (2751m), returning to Delta Corner for the evening. On Sunday we will return to the crater and attempt Te Heu Heu (2732m) along the main ridge, descending the skifield to the car park and home thereafter. Contact Kevin at 934 0975 (evenings) or email me at kp@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.


24-26Aug - Ruapehu South - Girdlestone and Tahurangi - Leader TBA - Level = AIC Graduate and up to 2-3 years experience

On Friday night we will drive up to Ohakune and either tent near the mountain road or stay at the backpackers. Saturday we will ascend the highest point on Ruapehu = Tahurangi peak (2797m) returning for a pub meal at the Powderhorn in the evening. On Sunday we will attempt Girdlestone (2658m), the oulying peak on the right of Tahurangi by crossing the Mangaehuehu Glacier. Contact Kevin at 934 0975 (evenings) or email me at kp@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.


21-23Sep - Egmont - via Tahurangi lodge - Leader TBA - Level = AIC Graduate and up to 2-3 years experience

We will leave early on Friday afternoon (4pm) to North Egmont car park, from where we will tramp up to Tahurangi Lodge (1.5h) arriving ca. 11pm. On Saturday we will ascend Egmont (2518m) via the Lizard, returning to the lodge for the evening. On Sunday we will explore the rock walls of Warwick Castle (bring a rope for this trip) towards the eastern side before returning to the car park. Contact Kevin at 934 0975 (evenings) or email me at kp@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.


19-22Oct - Cupola - Nelson Lakes - Leader TBA - Level = AIC Graduate and up to 2-3 years experience

Labour Weekend trip - time for a bit of South Island powder snow and true alpine peaks experience! We will take the ferry then hire car to Nelson Lakes on Friday night, staying in the backpackers at St Arnaud. On Saturday we will take the water taxi to the far end of Lake Rotoiti, and then tramp up to Cupola Hut (7h). On Sunday we will climb Cupola, return and descend to John Tait Hut. Monday is for the walk out, water taxi, ferry back to Wellington. Contact Kevin at 934 0975 (evenings) or email me at kp@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.


9-12Nov - Mueller Hut- Leader = Rachael Schmidt/Garth London - Level = AIC Graduate and up to 2-3 years experience

Most likely we will be flying to Christchurch on Friday night then driving to Mt Cook Village (arriving ca. 11pm) staying at Unwin Hut. Otherwise some ferry/drive combination is envisaged. A number of options are possible including Barron Saddle Hut, and Mts Olivier, Kitchener and Sealy. Details to come. Contact Garth gl@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz or Rachael rs@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

22Dec07 - 6Jan08 - Xmas Trip - Destination TBA - Leader TBA

Yes folks, this ones the biggie! 15 days in-country, multiple moderate grade peaks. Destination - somewhere in the South Island, south of Arthurs Pass.

8-10Feb - Taranaki Rock - Leader = James Wright

Weekend trip to climb the rock on Mt Taranaki. Most likely we will be based from Tahurangi lodge on the Northern Slopes. Multiple rock routes on various pillars and outcrops including Humphries Castle. Contact James Wright at james.wright@xtra.co.nz or call at (04) 232-7748 or (027) 4725-561.

MOVED HOUSE?

Please notify the Club's National Administrator of your change of address as the labels for all newsletters and club publications are generated at the HQ office.

You can contact:

Margaret McMahon
National Administrator
email office@alpineclub.org.nz

NZAC
PO BOX 786
CHRISTCHURCH
TEL (03) 377 7595
FAX (03) 337 7594