Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first unimpeded Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meet for dinner at the Backbencher public bar at 6.30 and on to Turnbull House at 7.30 pm for a catch up. Meetings and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea and coffee afterwards.

Two Great Wellingtonians!The Immediate Past President, Dave Bamford and the President, Judy Reid looking forward to the May 2005 CCM with great enthusiasm!

Banff is over for 2005 - Roll on 2006!

The 2005 Banff Mountain Film Festival was another huge success for 2005. Many thanks to our sponsors (in alphabetical order) - Bivouac Outdoors, Mountain Designs, Mainly Tramping, Wellington Avalanche Transceiver Trust Inc

Planning is already underway for the 2006 Banff Mountain Film Festival in Wellington. If you have any suggestions, comments or want to be involved in the organising then please contact Michele Domaneschi, md@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

Section trips news

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter @nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories.

Waipara, Bonar, Matukituki Traverse

James Wright, Kevin Patterson, Pete Shanahan and I recently caught a jet boat up the Arawata to the confluence with the Waipara, where we spent a few days pinned down by rain. The next couple of days were spent getting into position at the base of Apparition Spur. The river travel was fairly straightforward with the highlight being provided by James Wright who had to re-sew the soles of his boats onto the uppers. Apparition Spur was a very big day, with a couple of hours of scrub (and spear grass) bashing, plus some committing slabs at the top. But we were now safely encamped in the sheltered head of Third Mate creek.

Unfortunately we were cheated of our primary objectives by two days of inclement weather. Kevin consoled himself with an ascent of Moonraker. Once the weather started to settle it was retreat time, which meant a high-level traverse of the Haast range to Colin Todd hut (night) before exiting down into the crowded Matukituki, and then onto a sticky-bun welcome in Wanaka by ex-patriot Wellingtonian Steve Hart.

Don French

Pete's Post

50km south from Scott Base across the ice of McMurdo Sound are two islands. Black Island has had most of its snow removed by the winds. White Island remains snow-covered. Between them is White Strait, which we call "Herbie Alley" because that's where the worst storms (or "Herbies") first appear.

We'd had cold conditions for a few weeks, and the ice was likely to be thick enough for reasonably safe and easy travel. So we decided to make an attempt to drive to White Island and hopefully to climb its highest point; Mt Nipha (792m). Different groups from Scott Base made three attempts, so that everyone would have a chance to participate. I led the second trip.

The first trip made it out to the bottom of White Island, before their Hagglunds tracked vehicle developed a fuel starvation problem. They slowly returned to base with the engine only capable of half revs. A rubber seal in the fuel selector valve had rotated and partially blocked the fuel outlet. The temperature outside was -40 deg C, which may have caused the rubber to shrink.

A few days later, with the vehicle repaired and a reasonable weather forecast, my group left at 8am. We made good progress, and had timed our arrival at White Island for the middle of the day when we'd have enough light to pick out any crevasses. We were following a GPS-route and we also had trip notes from similar expeditions in 2004 and 2002.

Travelling in a vehicle on Antarctic ice is something you need to do quite carefully. The standard routes are marked with flags, and have been checked for crevasses and tide cracks. But once you venture off-road you must find your own safe path. Even reasonably gentle slopes can contain quite large crevasses, and the transition from ice onto solid land is often quite treacherous.

Travel was easy along the marked route towards Black Island. White Strait contains a broken-up area where dust and gravel from Black Island has been deposited onto the ice. The darker colour of the gravel attracts solar radiation, and in summer melting occurs around the rocks. Adjacent cleaner areas of ice don't melt as quickly. The result is a broken and jagged landscape that would be difficult to traverse if our American friends hadn't maintained the road using their bulldozers. They have a satellite communications station on Black Island, and need to drive there regularly.

We had an uneventful trip, with no crevasses spotted on our path. At -30degC the temperature was warmer than the previous group had experienced, and the vehicle performed faultlessly. We traversed across White Island in a north easterly direction with the terrain climbing gently until we reached Mt Henderson. We stopped to refuel the vehicle from drums of diesel, and took lots of photos. Then we turned north, and headed towards the base of Mt Nipha.

We parked the Hagglunds and scrambled up the 100 vertical metres to the summit. It was a mixture of frozen scree, ice, and soft snow. With my cold-weather mountaineering boots, I was able to kick steps in the harder areas for the others, who were wearing softer mukluk boots. Near the top we took a few more photos, and then it was time to head home.

On the way back we were lucky to see the sun peeping over the horizon. We'd already had our last sunset at Scott Base a week earlier, but from the elevated position on White Island we were treated to an amazing sunset. The trip home was easy, since we could follow our own tracks and be reasonably sure that no crevasses were present. By the time we arrived home, it was completely dark, but with a clear and starry sky.

The third group went out the next day, and had colder temperatures. They also climbed Mt Nipha, but on their way home they experienced a repeat of the fuel problem with the vehicle.

Perhaps this wasn't a very significant mountaineering expedition, but it was an opportunity to bag an Antarctic peak. It was also a fun day out with a great bunch of people in an amazing environment.

Pete de Joux from Antarctic

News from the May 2005 NZAC CCM

The Club Committee is NZAC's main governing body. It is made up of representatives from all the sections, and meets twice a year, in May and November.

At the May 2005 Club Committee Meeting, the focus was on the idea of "one club" rather than separate sections and a "head office". It was agreed that:
· Sections should exchange information (via the website) about speakers, trips and instruction courses, with a view to sharing resources.
· Profits from the Banff film festivals are unevenly distributed between sections, and donations to national funds, which benefit all NZAC members, are recommended. Some sections have already made donations to the Home of Mountaineering, but others may want to consider it. Priority should then be given to climbing related funds - huts, overseas expeditions and bolting.
· Smaller sections should be helped to run Banff showings, or given financial assistance where necessary.
· Section instruction should meet national standards, with common syllabi, instructor requirements and safety procedures. Information about these standards, which were adopted at the November 2004 CCM, will be posted on the website.
· Section instruction courses should be open only to club members.

Other business important to the sections:
· The national climbing camp for 2006 will be in the Rees Valley, Dec 31 to Jan 7, hosted by Otago Section - see Climber for more details.
· There will be a Youth Mountaineering Introduction Weekend, 24-26 September 2005, for members and the children of members - see Climber for more details.
· The instructor courses with Paul Rogers will run again in summer 2006. Sections should nominate rock and snow instructors for these courses.
· Work on Homer Hut is going ahead, and plans for Unwin are under discussion, with a decision to be made between refurbishing or replacing the accommodation wing.
· A Rock-climbing Committee has been set up, with Kristen Foley as convener.
· The Overseas Climbing Committee is keen to provide funding for section expeditions.
· There was support for a fee increase from $80 to $90 pa, with the student rate staying the same. A case for this increase will be sent out to the sections for discussion before the November 2005 CCM.
· An Australian Section has been formed - joint trips to Arapiles are already being considered!

Finally, Geoff Gabites and Chas Tanner were both made life members for their very significant contributions to the Club's activities, and Nigel Roberts and Ross Cullen were re-appointed as vice-presidents.

Judy Reid, NZAC President

Distaghil Sar Fund Applications

This fund was set up as a memorial to Chris Hoare, Andy Boas and Steve Thornley, Wellington Section members who died on Distaghil Sar in the Karakoram in August 1996.

The fund is made up of donations from families and friends. Awards are made every year from the interest it earns. This year the total available for awards is in the region of $500. The purpose of the fund is to assist members to become better qualified to instruct on our alpine courses.

Any member of the section may apply for an award. The closing date for applications this year is Friday 08 July. Decisions about grants are made by the fund administrators (the section's chairperson, instruction committee convener and treasurer).

Applications should be in writing, and should specify the courses or qualifications for which financial assistance is sought; the need for such assistance; and the availability of the applicant to instruct on the section's snow courses.

Appropriate courses are NZAC or FMC instructor courses; NZOIA snow assessments or pre-assessments; risk assessment and outdoor first aid courses; or any other courses or qualifications that the fund administrators approve. Awards will be used to pay for expenses actually incurred, rather than given as a lump sum.

The decision about awards will take into account the applicants' climbing skills and judgement, ability to communicate with students, commitment to safety, previous contributions to the section's instruction programmes, and availability to instruct on the section's alpine courses in future. The available funding may be given to one applicant, or split between two or more.

Applications should be sent to Distaghil Sar Fund, NZAC Wellington Section, PO Box 1628, Wellington BY 08 July 2004. Awards will be announced in the August newsletter.

Library Update

Just a reminder that the library is regularly adding to its collection. A full listing of the books, videos and DVD's is available as an excel file on the website.

To whet your appetite here is a snippet of a few of the recent and not-so-recent acquisitions:
· Expeditions - Andrew Linblade (2001)
· Climbing Free - Lynn Hill (2002)
· Above the Clouds - Anatoli Boukreev (diaries edited by Linda Wylie in 2001)
· The Beckoning Silence - Joe Simpson (2002)
· Touching the Void - Joe Simpson (1988/1997)
· Between Heaven and Earth - Sally Irwin (2000)
· Voices From the Summit - ed. Bernadette McDonald (2000)
· In Ghost Country, A Lifetime Spent on the Edge - Peter Hillary/John Elder (2004)
· Ice World, Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing - Jeff Lowe (1997)
· John Pascoe - Chris Maclean (2003)
· In the Shadow of Denali - Jonathan Waterman (1994/1998)
· Under a Sheltering Sky, Journey's to Mountain Heartlands - Colin Monteath (2003)

In the guide book line there is
· Arthur's Pass, A Guide for Mountaineers (2004)
· New Zealand Backcountry Skiing - James Broadbent (2004)
· Taranaki Mount Egmont, A Guide for Climbers - Ross Eden (2003)
· The Definitive Spittle Hill Climbing Guide - Alan Davison/Matt Pierson (2003)
· Golden Bay Climbs - Simon Middlemass/Mark Watson (updated 2003)
· Barron Saddle to Mt Brewster - Ross Cullen (2002)
· Mount Aspiring Region, A Guide for Mountaineers - Allen Uren/Mark Watson (2001)
· Tibet Handbook - Gyurme Dorje (1996)

There is also a range of DVD's:
· Touching the Void (2003)
· Southern Faces (2004)
· Friction Addiction, Black Hills Gold (2003)
· Colorado Daydream - Once around the Sun (2004)

AN APPEAL: A recently acquired book, "Classic Peaks of New Zealand" by Hugh Logan has gone missing from the library shelves. If someone has borrowed it and forgotten to record their details please contact the librarian ASAP.

Avalanche Course/Lecture

The Mountain Safety Council is putting on an Avalanche Awareness Training lecture, here in Wellington!

When: Tuesday 19 July 19th
Time: 7:30pm sharp
Where: Science House, 11 Turnbull Street (off Murphy Street opposite the Thorndon New World Supermarket). Lasting about 2.5 hours.
Cost: Only $5 at the door - (for this, you get tea and bikkies and an internationally respected snow expert to talk to you!)

Attending an evening lecture is a prerequisite for going on their field day weekend sessions in the snow. So if you are planning on going to any of the Mountain Safety Avalanche Courses this year at Ruapehu, and can't make the evening lectures at Ohakune, then you can attend this ONE in Wellington instead.

Check out www.mountainsafety.org.nz for their course dates

Note on Parking: There is some parking around the building, or on Murphy Street, but don't use the Wilson Car Park unless you want to be towed. For more location information go online to: http://www.rsnz.org/directory/location/ or look on your Wellington map for the US Embassy - Science House is the big blue building on the next street down.
Thanks to the Royal Society of NZ for providing the venue (they recognise that studying snow crystals is a Science, but we know picking safe terrain on snow is an Art.)

· Come along and learn the art!
· Please support this initiative, as we want the MSC to provide this informative opportunity to us city-folk every year!

Your Section Needs You
- Newsletter Folding Help Urgently Required!

Your hard working committee is desperately running out of hands to fold and label this monthly newsletter. We are urgently after some volunteers willing to co-ordinate and run the newsletter folding. With 4 people it takes approximately an hour and is a great excuse to have a social get together and tell lies about the latest mountain you climbed! Folding is usually done on a Wednesday or Thursday and the required dates are known well in advance to help with time planning.

If some nice volunteers are not found soon then we will have to look at paying the print shop to fold and label the newsletters which would take funds away from other section activities (section night speakers, instructor training, library books...).

Please contact Caroline at cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz or phone (h) 475 5542 if you are willing to help!

Many Thanks from Your Hardworking Committee

AIC 2005 - Students and Instructors Wanted!

The planning and organising for AIC 2005 is well underway. Places are filling up fast but there is still some space left if you are keen. Dates are:

Theory 1: Monday July 11 (evening) Wellington
Weekend 1: 15-17 July Mt. Ruapehu
Theory 2: Monday July 25 (evening) Wellington
Weekend 2: 29-31 July Mt. Ruapehu
Theory 3: Monday August 08 (evening) Wellington
Weekend 3: 12-14 August Mt. Taranaki

There is still space for section members who are interested in being instructors on the course. Training and support is given to new instructors.

Please contact Caroline Duggan, cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, 475 5542 for details.

Hedgehog House Book Specials

UNDER A SHELTERING SKY - journeys to mountain heartlands
Colin Monteath

· Now reduced to $NZ50 (plus post to overseas addresses).
· Supplies are limited so order your signed copy now.

Need to buy some great presents??
· Get in early and order five copies to the one address and pay for only four ($NZ 200 plus post overseas)

Under a Sheltering Sky has been well received around the world with some great reviews. The book was short listed in the Mountain Literature category at the Banff Mountain festival in Canada and has now been acclaimed at the prestigious Trento Mountain festival in Italy. There will be foreign editions as a result but, the original New Zealand edition will remain the cheapest and easiest to order through Hedgehog House's efficient web site. And, our copies will be the only ones autographed.

"Under a Sheltering Sky is a large format photography book with unexpected visions of the enchanting beauty in mountain and polar worlds: a work replete with more pictures of faraway alpine places - Tibet, Bhutan, Mongolia, Greenland, Antarctica etc - than even Galen Rowell's most ambitious productions. Monteath's photographic eye has few, if any, contemporary rivals for capturing not only the decisive moment in images of people and animals, but the stunningly pure colour of alpine and polar landscapes. His writing, colorful, insightful, humorous, and at times hypnotically evocative, complements his images; his descriptive passages are some of the best I have read."
American Alpine Journal

ALSO ON SPECIAL THIS MONTH - orders by email only

WILD ICE - ANTARCTIC JOURNEYS
(in word and image, a mixture of wildlife observations, travel narrative and adventures)

When it first came out in 1990, almost no copies of this highly acclaimed coffee table book on Antarctica (first published by Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington, now in five languages) were ever signed by all four authors - Colin Monteath, Mark Jones, Tui De Roy and Ron Naveen.
· Now Hedgehog House can offer a very limited number of copies, signed by all four, of the original Hedgehog House edition.
· Price: $NZ100 (plus postage overseas)

HALL AND BALL - KIWI MOUNTAINEERS
Colin Monteath
Published by Hedgehog House 1997.
· Going to Kathmandu in the near future? Then you can still buy copies of Colin Monteath's remarkable biography of two of New Zealand's most colourful and successful mountaineers, Rob Hall and Gary Ball.
· If not, then you can order one of five copies only of the original New Zealand edition - signed by Colin Monteath
· Price: $NZ100 (plus postage overseas)

HALL AND BALL - KIWI MOUNTAINEERS
Deluxe edition - boxed, numbered and signed
· only 100 were ever for sale
· Three copies only now available
· Price: $NZ300 (plus postage overseas)

AVAILABLE SHORTLY:

ANTARCTICA - BEYOND THE SOUTHERN OCEAN
Colin Monteath (Published by David Bateman Ltd, Auckland 1997)

Short listed at New Zealand's Montana Book Awards 1997, Colin Monteath's stunning photographic book Antarctica- Beyond the Southern Ocean will soon be reprinted and available throughout New Zealand, Australia and USA retail outlets. Signed copies will also be available direct from Hedgehog House. The next newsletter will advise availability and price.

Hedgehog House is in the process of revamping the picture library and book mail order parts of its website so check online for a new selection of polar and mountain books coming soon.

www.hedgehoghouse.com

For Sale/Wanted to buy

Personal Locator Beacon
I have an emergency locater beacon. When I am not using it, which is quite e few weekends, it is essentially a useless lump of plastic. If people want to borrow it for their weekend trips, then thay can borrow it off me. It is hardly going to depreciate with use. Club members might as well get as much use out of it as possible. I just hope that while people carry it, they don't have to "use" it. Know what I mean? Anyway, the offer is there. People can contact me on this e-mail address if they want to borrow it.
Sam - Samuel.Newton@nzpost.co.nz

For Sale: Adjustable 12 point crampons with key in Charlet Moset crampon bag. Good condition. $140.
Contact Chris on 021 307 353.

For Sale: Makalu La Sportiva boots, mens size 41 European. Hardly worn though have been snow sealed, in excellent condition. $200neg, phone Erin 021 339382 or email erinpentie@yahoo.com

For Sale:
· Mountain Designs Fox alpine pack 50L -used once and decided got too many
packs! New $449, Sell $150
· Adidas Womens running shoes s9 US -Brand new, been sitting around for
few months. New $289, Sell $150
· Mountain Designs Outrace pack (Adventure racing/Running) -Been used few
times, as new. New around $110, Sell $50
· Thermarest explorer (short) Thick and comfy. Sell $40
· Asolo AFS Supersoft (Plastics) Mens s9 1/2 UK -Used few times,
minor surface scuffs, wrong fit for my foot. Sell $150
Items in Wellington, Pics Available: Email Matt mattm@ampro.co.nz

Wanted: Ice axe 100cm (or thereabouts). Brian. 04 977 3975. bwilkins@paradise.net.nz

Wanted: Ice hammer, medium size, for general use. Don't particularly need serious technical gear. Simon. 021 549 120. simon@cadre.co.nz

Wanted: BUSCANDO PHOTO. Has anyone been traveling in Argentina? Did you go to the lookout on the road between Calafate & Viedma for a view of the Cordillera up Lago Argentino? Was it a clear day and did you take a view of the mountains - the sharp pointed mountain Cerro de Mayo - my interest is in a panorama that includes the view to the southwest. Second point of interest is a view down the Brazo Sur from the road to the Periito Moreno Glacier viewing platform - over the low glacier saddle to the mountains above Lago & Glacier Dickson. Many thanks. Jay Davison. 28A Kahu Road Paremata 6006. 04 233 6510. stokesnz@paradise.net.nz

For Sale: Women's tramping boots, HiTec Lady Dakota, brown, size UK 7 1/2, US 9 1/2. $100 ono. Heather Roberts. 4757543. heather.roberts@clear.net.nz

Chairpersons Quiz Numbers 17 (Answer) & 18

Quiz No 17: Which 8,000 metre peaks (if any) were first climbed in 1955, and who were the first New Zealanders to climb any 8,000 metre peaks first climbed in 1955? Two 8,000'ers were first climbed in 1955: Kangchenjunga and Makalu. Norman Hardie was the first New Zealander to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga (on the day following the first ascent in 1955); and Rob Hall was the first New Zealander to reach the summit of Makalu (in 1995). The winner drawn at the May section night meeting was John Nankervis. His brilliance / luck won him a bottle of Main Divide white wine. Quiz No 18: Colin Monteath took the dramatic photo that's on the front cover of the May 2005 edition of "Wilderness" magazine. The photo was taken in South Georgia. Whom is it a picture of? Email your answers to nr@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz by no later than noon on Sunday, 12 June 2005 with 'Quiz Number 18' in the subject line. Because Quiz Number 18 is about a photograph taken by Colin Monteath, the winner will receive a dozen bottles of Monteith's dark beer.

And here are the club trips ....

Wellington Section Trips - Trips are a key part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to Michele Domaneschi or Rachel Depree (trips @nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)

Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going.

See you in the hills! WE NEED MORE TRIPS! COME ON GUYS

Trips for the Calendar for the rest of 2005…

Check out the proposed and planned new list for 2005. We need trip organisers to put their hands up for what are bound to be outstanding adventures. There's something for everyone in here with a mix of snow, rock and even a spot of ski touring.

STOP PRESS!!! Late Breaking News

Congratulations to section members Michele and Karen Domaneschi on the new arrival of their daughter, well timed to enable Michele to partake in Queens Birthday climbing trips over the coming years! However we expect he will be spending the next wee while attending to the women in his life…