Section trips news: Growing and sowing

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories, tall or short, fat or thin, sharp or dim. We love to know what you're up to!

Never mind Mt Pollux, here's the story

Easter Monday saw seven pairs of headlamps starting off around 6am. The climbers left perhaps 3 cm later, or at about 6 am and 1/1000 of a second. Sally and Garth turned back after a while for a civilised lie in [not together we hope, although that would be most civilised! Ed.], while the rest ascended the glacier, again following Don's excellent lead - well, sometimes following his tracks as he was way in the distance. The interesting route comprised some climbing over crevasses and abseiling down a wall onto the Donald Glacier, followed by more short vertical ice, crevasses and nevé until we reached the summit ridge.

The ridge included a "friendly pitch" (a fixed Friend conveniently wedged above a steep rock step) followed by the "eye of the needle" pitch, which involved some crawling (easier for the petit lasses than the tall lads). By an early lunch the summit of Mt Pollux had finally been climbed by Don and James, followed shortly after by Dave and Kathleen, and the 'C' team (the other six) made a more civilised lunch time summit of about 1pm. Probably more ascents than this mountain usually sees in a year!!

Other mountains climbed on the trip included Mt Awful (Dave and Kathleen) and Mt Betsy-Jane (Kevin and Julien). Mt Awful is a misnomer, as it has wonderful solid rock and some great climbing. Should be called Awesome!

Special thanks must go to Angie, for being our base camp manager, and copiously plying us with hot tea on our arrivals and saving bunks!

Words by Kathleen Logan, sorry about the absent picture by Caroline Duggan

Details
* Don, James, Dave, Kathleen, Alan, Caroline, Nicky, Kevin, Julien, Pete, Chitty & Jenny climbed Mt Pollux (2,536m) on April 21, 2003. * Julien & Kevin climbed Mt Betsy Jane (2,168m) on April 25, 2003. * Dave & Kathleen climbed Mt Awful (2,192m) on April 25, 2003. * Sally, Garth, Angie, Nicky, Chitty, Jenny, Alan & Caroline looked at Mt Alba (2,360m) from Crucible Lake on April 25, 2003 but decided to leave the summit attempt for another day.

News from the very active wide, wide world of Nank

Kangchenjunga Attempt:
In October/November last year Colin and Betty Monteath, Claudia Schneider, Jim Harding, Rob Rowlands and John Nankervis spent a month in the Kangchenjunga area of Eastern Nepal. They went up the Tamur River to the remote villages of Olangchunggola and Yangma (an area, near Tibet, only just reopened to foreigners) and then crossed the Marsin La and Nango La to Ghunsa. Rob was welcomed warmly in Ghunsa; assisting his wife, Cherie, he has done a lot of work in Ghunsa and nearby assisting with the establishment of medical and school facilities. Rob stayed on in Ghunsa while the rest continued up to the Kangchenjunga Base camp at Pangpema. Some higher vantage points were visited and side trips made, but unfortunately the team didn't have permits for the Big K or Jannu (wow, that North Face!). They then returned to the tropics, a waiting Beaver at Suketar and through Biratnagar Spears to the fleshpots of Kathmandu [hmmm… the whole thing sounds exceedingly dodgy - Ed].

Milford Over New Year:
John Cocks, Russell Braddock and John Nankervis climbed Pembroke from Harrison Cove and Pembroke Creek. Fantastic viewpoint and quite well frequented by Welly climbers, so if your peak bag is embarrassingly empty this could be an easy top-up.

Canada - Selkirks, & well, Piste in Tahoe:
Johns Wild and Nankervis spent some time retro downhilling in central BC and ski mountaineering at the end of February. Highlights were a day touring in very deep pow out of Rogers Pass and a week at Selkirk Lodge on the Albert Icefield with a group of way-out Americans. Exciting deep snow and more fine weather than usual for the Selkirks at this time of year. This was just after the two huge avalanche disasters in the Selkirks so there was tons to learn. After some time at Whistler Nank returned to work leaving John Wild to join up with Rob Rowlands for some touring and piste bashing out of Lake Tahoe.

"Way beyond the lift line": Volcanic Ski Touring:
You'd think reading Vertigo there was nobody active on the great snowy andesites last winter. Yet there were Wellingtonians galore cavorting beyond the liftlines. What follows is the iceberg tip. One bright Saturday deep in August John Nankervis and Jamie Durham skinned up from Whakapapa, and skied the Whangaehu Glacier from the Crater in amazing silk. Sighted in the distance, late in the day, were Wilf Dickerson, Tim Stern, the evergreen AJ Knowles and the ubiquitous AN Other, circuiting from Turoa via Pare traverse, the Whangaehu and the very top of Tahurangi. They were equally ecstatic about the pleasures of the Whangaehu run. In September Russell Braddock, Simon Prebble and John Nankervis stayed at the OPC lodge at Tukino and skied off Te Heuheu and, next day, Tahurangi into the upper Wahianoa and back into the Whangaehu from Mitre Saddle, taking advantage of the big spring snow cover. Late November (now becoming an annual pilgrimage) Tim Stern, Nank, Jamie Durham, Dan Bonifant and "Farmer Ben" Dickie of Waverly had a misty/sunny run from the top of Taranaki down to Tahurangi Hut. The snow stayed and stayed - Clinton Wadsworth, Wilf Dickerson and John Nankervis had superb and still generous snow cover at Ruapehu the w/e before Christmas. Based at Whangaehu Hut they skied down the north side of Te Heuheu towards Waihohonu before retreating to savour the delights of the Mangatoetoenui Glacier. Next day - from Mitre saddle to the top of Tahurangi, into the upper Gliding Gladys above Turoa, down into the Crater and a wee diversion to Paretetaitonga before descending the always friendly Whangaehu to the hut and home. Despite the good snow season the top part of the slope from the Crater outlet valley to Mitre saddle was unskinnable and at least one of the above lost it on skiing the same slope, skilfully navigating the bluffs in the prone position. There is a prospect of an NZAC Guidebook for the area which will include ski touring - opening the floodgates to those thriving on packaged pleasure. This brings mixed reactions from those who love earning their turns. Message - get into it now while solitude still prevails.

Cheers, Nank



Mulheron on enforced diet, takes "lightening" trip

In settled May weather Johnny Mulheron (NZAC Wellington) and Erik Bradshaw (Queenstown) did a lightening [ie. they took far too little food. Ed.] transalpine trip in Mt Aspiring. After crossing Matukituki and Waipara saddles they camped on the benches below Arawhata saddle. They then climbed and scrambled up the north ridge of Mt Liverpool before descending to camp at scenic Cascade saddle. From there they sidled to Shotover saddle, having to wear crampons to negotiate frozen south facing scree slopes, before dropping back down to the Matukituki.

from a much thinner Johnny



"There's no 'I' in team but if you look carefully there's no "I" in anything else either": Duggan expelled from Eden due to absence of the first person singular

Over the Easter - ANZAC break headed into the Garden of Eden Ice Plateau for a bit of tramping and climbing with Jeremy "Bigfoot" Haines. Had excellent weather with 6 fine days and one day of Nor West whilst crossing Dennistoun Pass. Went in via the Clyde and Frances Rivers and Perth Col. Stayed a couple of nights at Adams Col and did a day trip to the Garden of Allah and up Mt Tyndall. Headed down to Scone Hut, next to the Perth River via The Great Unknown, Elizabeth, and Redfield Streams. Then crossed back to Canterbury via Dennistoun Pass and down the Havelock River back to our start point at Erewhon Station.

cheers Eric Duggan



Awesome in Horsham, happily in Arapiles, & camps in the Gramps

Scotty & Simon joined the now traditional Wellington section autumnal exodus to the wonderful land of Oz and slunk off to go climbing in Arapiles and the Grampians National Park. Section "Summer rock" grads Nicky and Andrei met up with them for a few days to tackle some three star classic climbs in the 'Piles, including Eskimo Nell (10), Kestrel (13), Muldoon (13), D's both major and minor (10 and 14 respectively), Arachnus (9), and Conifer Crack (9).

Scary shit done also at the 'Piles included Skink (18), Leamington (19) and Morfydd (19), all led with a continuous existential monologue from Scott. The major climbing highlight however was a beautifully sustained 4 pitch grade 17 climb called Heretic at Mt Rosea in the Gramps, which culminated with an exciting mantle top out after 120 metres. A must do.

The boys put a major crick in their necks by looking open mouthed at Taipan Wall, which is absolutely positively fantastic featureless red rock gently overhanging for 70m. We would also have climbed the wonderful line "Blimp" (20) at Bundaleer if the cloud hadn't been down nipping round our ankles.

As ever the locals provided the colour. Highlights included eating pizza with Broomey, the man who doesn't sweat but lives in the Little Desert and who has mutton-chop whiskers to grace a Merchant-Ivory production, as well as Tapper ("tap, tap, tap - got a beer?", "tap, tap, tap - got a cigarette?", "tap, tap, tap - got a light?"). We never, unfortunately, got to meet "Oddball". We struck the odd local language difficulty. Seeking information in Horsham on where the train her and Andrei were to take back into Melbourne was departing from, Nicky enquired of a railway worker "where's the check in?" The guy's helpful response? "The Kentucky Fried's over the road"!

By Sly

And the winner is ....John Thomson

At the section night meeting held on Monday, 5 May, the new chairperson of the Wellington section, Nigel Roberts, offered a bottle of wine -- appropriately Shingle Peak! - to the first person to send in the correct answer to the question "Where was Ed Hillary 50 years ago today (that is, on 5 May 1953)?"

The answer was Lobuje village.

Several email entries were submitted on the evening of the fifth of May, and more followed during the next few days. The first correct entry was sent in by John Thomson. Congratulations, John (and do come to the section night on Monday, 9 June -- the night of the photo comp. -- to collect your prize).

Cheap climbing at Fergs

As an Alpine Club member you can now climb at Fergs Rock and Kayak for only $5 EVERY Monday night, and at any other time for only $8 (usually $12). Make sure you carry your card and that your membership is up to date

Photo comp

There's still time to get your entries in for this year's photo contest. There are some fantastic prizes to be won. Judging the photos this year will be the man who can make a science of politics, our esteemed chairperson, Nigel Roberts, who is -- he tells "vertiGO" -- incorruptible, but he's also willing to have the proposition that everyone has their price tested.

Entries (which can be either slides or prints) should be in any of the following six categories:-

* Alpine Activity
* Alpine General
* Alpine Nature
* Rock Climbing
* Humour
* Photojournalism

Just drop your entries in at Mainly Tramping before 5:00 pm on Wednesday, 4 June 2003. Please put a black spot on the front, bottom left-hand corner of your slides so they'll be loaded correctly into the projector. An entry form is available on the web at http:www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz/newsletters/photoentry.htm -- or contact Garth London (either at gl@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz or by ringing 568-7132).

Whether you enter some of your photographs or not, make sure you come to Our next section night -- at 8:00 pm at Turnbull House on Monday, 9 June 2003 -- to see some great climbing photography!

Our Alpine instruction course is taking bookings. Be in to climb now!

The Alpine Instruction Course is an ideal introduction to alpine climbing. No previous experience is necessary. The course is also an excellent refresher for more experienced people. And it's great fun !!!

The aim of the AIC is to introduce and familiarise people with the concepts and techniques of climbing in a natural alpine environment in a safe and enjoyable manner. Cost of $720 includes transport, accommodation, food and 2:1 student-instructor ratio.

Dates for 2003 :

22 July (evening) Theory Session 1 in Wellington
26-27 July Weekend 1 at Mt. Ruapehu
5 August (evening) Theory Session 2 in Wellington
9-10 August Weekend 2 at Mt. Ruapehu
19 August (evening) Theory Session 3 in Wellington
23-24 August Weekend 3 at Mt. Taranaki

For more information contact Pete de Joux on (04) 478 1017 (home), or (04) 568 1478 (work), or 0274 421 779 (mobile), or email at pdj@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Our website

Reminder about our web site www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz. Over half of Wellington section members are now subscribed to our free email discussion group. If you would like to get or communicate information of interest then go to our web site www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz for instructions on how to join.

NZAC National instruction programme

The Instruction courses will provide intermediate-advanced instruction to Club members at subsidised rates.

The number of places on the courses is limited. (8 for the weekend courses and 12 for the 5 day courses). The courses held in 2002 were very popular and interested members are advised to make bookings early to avoid disappointment.

This year the programme of eight weekend intermediate snow and rock instruction courses has been expanded to include two 5 day and ice instruction courses which will be held at Mt Cook in January 2004. Fully qualified alpine guides or rock instructors will be used to lead all courses and there will be an instructor - student ration of 1 to four ensuring an excellent learning environment.

Course dates are as follows:

Intermediate Alpine Instruction (Two Days) $130 12-13 July The Remarkables, Otago
16-17 July Fox Glacier, Westland
19-20 July Mt Ruapehu
2-3 August Mt Ruapehu

Intermediate Rock Instruction (Two Days) $99
23-24 October Otago
1-2 November, Canterbury
23-24 October Auckland
1-2 November , Wellington

Intermediate- Advanced Mountaineering (Five Days) $750
3-7 January 2004 , Unwin Hut Mt Cook
10-14 January 2004 Unwin Hut Mt Cook

Members wanting further information on dates, costs and course details, or wishing to make applications should contact :
Richard Wesley
National Administrator
phone 03 377 7595
email richard@alpineclub.org.nz

Moved House?

Please notify the Club's National Administrator of your change of address as the labels for all newsletters and club publications are generated at the HQ office.

You can contact:

Richard Wesley
NZAC Administrator
PO BOX 786
CHRISTCHURCH
TEL (03) 377 7595
FAX (03) 337 7594
e mail office@alpineclub.org.nz

for sale

Alpine Gloves
OR (Outdoor Research) Gortex mitts, expedition model, full length, lined, as new. Offers to Philippa Grimes Tel: 479 9298.

Ski gear
Cross-Country Skis (hardly used). Skis: Rossignol 'Caribou AR' 198 with "Fish-scale' ridges. Poles: Exel 130….Finnish. Boots: Heierling size 39 Ladies. $100 for the set.
Downhill Skis (used). Skis: Elan FAS Series 185. Poles: Scott (2 pairs). Boots: Raichle Ladies size 6. $50 for the set
Anyone interested please contact Patricia at pzbemg@xtra.co.nz

And here are the club trips ....

Wellington Section Trips

Trips are a key part of the section (that's why we are all here, right?), so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to either Jenny (alpinetrips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz) or Mike (rocktrips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz). Jenny is the person to contact about alpine trips, and Mike can help you out with planning rock climbing trips such as weekends to The Bay. Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Many Alpine Clubbers are probably also interested to hear about other trips you may be planning (skiing, mountain biking, caving), so we can discuss these with you too. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going on a safe and enjoyable trip.

Trips currently on the calendar:

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park - Queens Birthday weekend
There are tentative last minute plans in the pipeline to take a trip to Mt Cook National Park. This would involve 3 days walking/climbing to have a go at the Minarets, possibly or Mt Dixon. It would probably involve pretty efficient logistics to get from Wellington to Mt Cook on Friday night, but I am sure it can be done (and it adds to the adventure, right?). Anyone keen to talk through these ideas, contact Jenny jh@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz (ph 04 976 0713).

Tasman Saddle, Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park - November
There are rumours in the air about a 8-9 day trip to Tasman Saddle, with a variety of mountaineering objectives, including Ellie de Beaumont. A great week out amongst some of New Zealand's finest and highest peaks. To register your interest email Caroline cd@nzapine.wellington.net.nz.

Nepal - October/November 2004
How about a slightly longer trip - to Nepal?? Several people have indicated interest in a section climbing trip to attempt several trekking peaks - Island Peak and Lubuje East have been suggested as reasonably straightforward objectives. This could include a non-climbing trek party also. Trip leaders for both are emerging as discussions go on. To indicate an initial interest email Steve, sh@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz