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Newsletter of the New Zealand Alpine Club, Wellington Section


NO. 647    July 2002        PO BOX 1628, WELLINGTON

Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first clear Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meet for dinner at the Backbencher at 6.30 and on to Turnbull House at 7.30 pm for a catch up. Meetings, run with an iron fist jam by El Presidente Alan Lowrie, start with precision at 8.00 pm with club business. Talks kick-off on the button at 8.01 pm.

 

I would like to extend a big thanks to Matt Spittal (pictured above centre) for taking up the challenge of the vertigo editor while Simon Chapple was away sunny himself in some exotic places - Welcome back Simon and good luck with that BIM (sub. Editor).

 


Section night, Monday 1 July: Lost 'n found…

…is not the name of the latest boy band. Rather set aside: 8pm for the 1 July Section Night!

This month Kay Hart is going to talk about one of the many trips that she and long lost section member Steve Hart have done since they left town 20 years ago. Steve and Kay are back in town and are both keen as mustard to get out into the mountains. Watch this space as Steve will also be telling us about an attempt on an 8000m peak soon.

A Short Climb in the Himalayas - an exploratory trip in the Batura glacier region of the western Karakoram in Pakistan. Kay Hart will give a lecture on her Himalayan trip, making the first ascent of a sub 6000m peak and getting to know the fantastic culture of the region.

Kay has been an outdoor enthusiast since going on a caving trip in the mid 80's. In 1987 she became a qualified outdoor education teacher and later took to the mountains with Steve, who is now her husband. Her first real alpine trip was this one to the Himalayas, going down after that in height to the European and NZ alps. Her most notable introduction to NZ climbing was being introduced to Stan Mulvany in climbing the Eiger when they met in Switzerland, Stan as usual wanting to walk from the village when a train ran through the middle of the mountain to a good spot just under the Mitteligi ridge.

 

Section night advance notice: short talks, long walks

Back by popular demand for our 2 September Section Night we are going to have a Short Talks Evening. All members are welcome and encouraged to pull out a few slides of your favourite trip and come along to relive the experience in a 5-10 minute talk to other members who are keen to hear abut it. Some AIC students will present a short review of this years AIC and we are keen to have a whole range of talks about different type of trips Rock, Alpine or Bouldering (or even camping if you promise to mention mountains). Please contact Caroline (cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz) for more details or to book a time slot.

 

Even more breathtaking…Doug Scott talk

We are organising a talk in Wellington sometime in July by Doug Scott. (hopefully Mike O'Brien will send some details in time for this issue of Vertigo. He hasn't, the bastard. Ed.) If details are not available in time for this issue then we will send a separate flyer to all members shortly

 

Stop Press, Breaking news!

We're excited to announce that Doug Scott will be giving a presentation Monday 22nd of July, Nordmeyer Theatre, Level D. Wellington School of Medicine, 7 pm. This talk picks up from the astounding Himalayan Climber presentation Doug Scott gave in New Zealand in 1996. In Moments of Being, he revisits his 1977 crawl down the Ogre (with two broken legs, and goes on to cover some of his recent climbs and explorations, including Choktoi (a rock pillar on Latok III), Jitchu Drake in Bhutan, Hanging Glacier Peak, and an epic jungle bash on the Indo-Tibetan border. A great evening is guaranteed - get your ticket early to ensure your seat

 

Feedback #1 request

The Wellington Section Committee is keen to hear your ideas (hey, seriously, take that smirk offa yo face!) about how we can make the club work for you. We would like to know what kind of speakers you would like to hear on Section Nights (specific suggestions and/or volunteers would be great). Also we would be interested in any other feedback (positive or negative) on how you think the section is going. Please send replies to kl@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

 

Feedback #2 request

Tell us what you are doing out there - The newsletter editor would love to hear about what everyone is doing out there in the hills rather than get absorbed with his usual inane ramblings. Please send your trip reports to newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz so everyone can "enjoy" your stories.



AIC 2002 on ICE: we want 1 more keen instructor

The alpine instruction is full, as popular as ever despite my attempts to dissuade people regarding the appalling cold one suffers on these courses. We have 20 keen students but are still looking for an additional keen instructor. If you have been a keen instructor or a keen assistant instructor on a previous course, can spare the time, are currently keen, and want to be part of a great AIC then please contact a very keen Pete (aic@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz).




National Instruction Program

There are two - count 'em - NI (stands for "North Island") National Instruction Courses coming up in August/September based at Ruapehu Hut. An oxymoronically titled "Instruction for Instructors" and "Intermediate/Advanced AIC". The Wellington Section will have a limited number of spaces on these courses. Cost is still to be finalised but will be heavily subsidised to the tune of $1 by the National Office. If you are interested in either of these courses and able to make the specified dates please contact Caroline Duggan (cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, ph: 475 5542). If you have already indicated interest please email again confirming availability. The lucky attendees will be decided by the Instruction Sub Committee and Lotto balls.

The dates are:

24-25 Aug Instruction for Instructors
14-15 Sept IntermediateAdvanced alpine Instruction


Wellington photo comp results

The first place prize winners, who entered slides, were:

Rockclimbing -- Splitter by Steve Eastwood;
Alpine Activity -- Belay practice by Alistair Betts;
Alpine Nature -- 3 Lands Point by Tony Gates;
Alpine General -- Darrans by Tom Wilson.

Tony Gates' s 3 Lands Point was considered the best picture overall, Alistair Betts's belay practice was second and third best was Steve Eastwood's Splitter. The overall winner in the print section was Steve Eastwood for Footsteps. Way to go Steve!

Thanks to our judge, Rob Suisted, for his honest appraisals, pointers to taking better pics and good humour. He was fab. Thanks also to Sue, also fab, as co-ordinator.

Rob rated four slides in each category, which will be forwarded on the national photo comp.

Finally, a big fat ta to our sponsors, Mountain Designs, Mainly Tramping and Bivouac Outdoor who contributed some great prizes for the June Photo Competition.

 


Pukerua Bay: Mention these new climbs: someone might check them out!

Dolphinius: 35m grade 21 up the front (NW) face of Wairaka Rock, Pukerua Bay. Starts in the shallow cave on excellent rock and finishes on the very summit of the rock. 8 ring bolts. Always a primo vantage point for dolphin spotting. There is a nice alternative start on natural gear up to the 3rd bolt, grade 16 if you lower off from the 3rd bolt.

There are other routes at Pukerua Bay. The first 2 are grade 24 overhanging routes on ring bolts. See Climber issue 37.

 

Vertigo Photos

As observant readers will have noticed we now have the technology to do photos. All submissions appreciated, except whiteouts! Please send electronically to Maria Cassidy at mc@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

 

Climbing wall deals

Reminder that Fergs are still have $5 members cheap nights this year. Also Hangdog are continuing their anytime $8 deal.

 

Trips Past

An NZAC Wellington 2002 Expedition brought to you by Reid's General Store and Backpackers, Maruia

Friday
A hardy group of 14 departed Lake Rotoroa early Friday morning in 2 boat loads. Some people were destined not to meet again for 36 hours. By early evening 12 people had made it to Blue Lake Hut - some snow plodding in wet running shoes, others believing the hut was 'just around the corner' making the final trudge in thigh deep snow and darkness before succumbing to the inevitable and pulling out torches. Unknown to us at the time the missing 2 had stopped at West Sabine due to a knee injury.

Saturday
A forecast for fine weather but a high freezing level combined with the amount of dry powder snow didn't leave much hope of a firm compacted snow base but 11 people left the hut early Saturday morning. The first obstacle was crossing the river, which most opted to do in bare feet to keep boots dry.

After floundering in waist deep snow getting to the bottom of the gut the decisions was made to head back due to too much unconsolidated snow. Lunch was had lounging outside Blue Lake hut in the sunshine. Karen, Emma, Kay and Rachel headed to check out Lake Constance while the rest of us lounged in the sun before heading back down the valley to West Sabine Hut for the night where the group of 14 were reunited again.

Sunday
Sunday saw everyone make their own way back down to Sabine Hut and taxi ride back across Lake Rotoroa. With a day to spare we headed to Maruia Springs for dinner and hot pools. The highlights being the plunge pools, rolling in the snow and the Japanese bath houses. While heading back to St Arnaud late that night to find somewhere to camp we stopped at Maruia for some of John's home made cake. A ghostly figure approached the van and offered accommodation at the General Store/Back Packers ($15 and definitely recommended). Oddly enough, there were 11 beds for 11people...

Monday
Monday was an incredibly energy sapping excursion involving cafes, wineries and games of chess.

Personnel: Stephanie Gibson, Sally Boyd, Rachel Davidson, Mike Drake (NZAC Nelson/Marlborough), Maria Cassidy, Kay Hart, Karen Gray (Chch), John Barnes, Jo Roberts, Ian Bennet, Emma Bradley (Chch), Caroline Duggan, Angela Stobo and Alan Lowrie headed to Nelson Lakes and up the West Sabine and attempted Mt Franklin (2340m) from Blue Lake Hut, Queens Birthday 2002.

Thanks to Caroline.

 

Back to the future - trips to be

Levy for non-members on club trips.
The Wellington Section committee is keen to emphasize the benefits of being a member and therefore we have voted on a levy for non-members on our trips.

Wellington Section policy now has a $20 trip levy be paid by any non-member wishing to participate in club trips. This levy would go to Wellington Section funds as contribution towards the resources supplied by the club-not least of which is the voluntary time donated by members and trip leaders.

Thanks to those who provided feedback, your comments were appreciated.

 

 

21-24 June 2002.
Mt. Travers, Nelson Lakes.

Winter on Mt Travers. For those who cannot make the public holiday but want a longer trip, Steve has planned an extended weekend trip from 21-24 June. Contact: sdhart@paradise.net.nz, or phone 04 9738079.


17—18 August 2002
Mid–winter Ascent, Mt. Taranaki.
Kara Lipski is keen to organise an ascent of Mt Taranaki to coincide with the final weekend of the 2002 Alpine Instruction Course. She would love to hear from anyone keen to go and especially from someone with enough experience to lead it. Easy peasy. Contact: kalipski@ihug.co.nz, or phone 04 387 4420 (hm).

 

21-22 September 2002
Two trips in one, Mt Ruapehu.
Sally has masterminded this excellent idea. Head to Massey Uni Ski lodge near Turoa and cover a range of activities.

Photographic skills trip.
Rob Suisted (photographer) has kindly agreed to a trip designed to focus on photographic skills in the mountains. Bring your camera and develop those techniques with personal tips from a professional.

Girdlestone.
Annual (?) trip up Girdlestone. Well timed for after the AIC. A chance to use those skills in anger.

Contact: Sally at Sally.Boyd@nzcer.org.nz, or phone 04 3846356 (hm), or Steph at SGibson@tepapa.govt.nz, or phone 04 381 2817 (hm). Each will be away during different periods over July and August.

 

Pete's Top Secret Heli-assault. Some time in September 2002.

You'd be crazy not to keep an eye on this space and/or the discussion group (discussion@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz) to find out what Pete is planning to achieve with some judicious use of a helicopter. Contact: details to be advised.

 

Mt Franklin: The Return. Late September.

This will be a 3 day weekend (Friday - Sunday) back to Nelson Lakes for some unfinished business. Exact dates to be finalised in next edition. Contact: Caroline at cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or phone 04 4755542 (hm).

 

26-28 October 2002
Labour Weekend in the Arrowsmiths, Canterbury.

Labour weekend. Fancy a chance to venture further south into the fabulous Arrowsmiths? Already keen interest shown. Contact: Me. Phil Suisted ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or phone 04 380 0855 (hm).

 

January 2003
Informal "climbing camp". Wanaka. ± 27 Dec 2002-20 Jan 2003.

"It has only begun in my head at the moment." (Steve Hart).

The idea would be a "climbing camp" based at a Wanaka campsite. This allows for a meeting place for individuals as well as family groups to meet and pair up with others. Walkers, mountaineers, novices, rockclimbers, as well those who may just join in for the sun, company and barbeques. If you are at all interested in such a plan, Steve Hart would love to hear from you, Contact: sdhart@paradise.net.nz, or phone 04 9738079 (hm).


January 2003
National Climbing Camp. Godley Valley. 2nd week January 2003.

Canterbury/Westland Section is organising the next national climbing camp. Centred in the Godley Valley. Hoping to make use of 4wd/watercraft for access. Fantastic opportunity to quit work and climb all summer-with Steve in Wanaka and then the Godley. Contact: C/W section direct, or stay tuned.

 

Thanks from Phil to everyone making an effort to generate club trips. Remember, contact trips co-ordinator if you have any ideas for trips-nothing will be set in stone! Phil Suisted-ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0855.

 

Donation

Last year the Wellington Section committee was approached by Abseil Access for a financial contribution towards their bolting effort on Ship Rock, Bearing Head. In recognition of their time, effort, and skills employed in developing Wellington climbing, the committee agreed to donate. ' Work mate.

 

 


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