Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first unimpeded Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meet for dinner at the Backbencher public bar at 6.30 and on to Turnbull House at 7.30 pm for a catch up. Meetings and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea and coffee afterwards.

Section trips news

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter @nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories.

Faerie Queene – “Upon a great adventure he was bound”

Tom Zink, Wanda Stratford, and Mike Peat joined me from Wellington. And we were joined by Tom Wilson who was on an extended South Island odyssey. I picked this mountain as being fairly technically easy for the early snows. As it turned out with a ferry crossing in mountainous seas, and nearly 2" of snow on the Lewis Pass road the technical aspects were buried in the vehicular approach! After disembarking from our very cheap but reliable hire car (thanks Shoestring rentals!) we made rapid progress along the well graded but tedious St James Walkway through Cannibal Gorge arriving at Ada Pass Hut some four hours later.

On Sunday we were up at 5am and away by 6am making rapid progress along to Camera Gully, which after an ankle deep crossing of the Ada River we started to ascend to the dawn of a BSD (blue sky day). The snowline yielded hidden "treasures" - a meter deep of unconsolidated snow over scrub and rocks! An 8m waterfall blocking our path was easily outflanked as we proceeded up through knee and occasionally waist deep snow. In turns of 15-20 minutes each of us broke the way and only by this method with so strong a team were we able to make progress. By 1800m, still 400m short and late in the morning, 3 of us could go no further and retired to an adjacent tarn. At this point the snow firmed up and some mixed climbing on a rib ridge yielded the main ridge which was traversed by myself and Tom Wilson for ca. 1km to the summit which was obtained at 2pm.

Out to the east extensive views were obtained of the Ada and Wairau valleys, with Travers and Tappy in the distance to the north. To the west, a sea of cloud extended beneath us broken only by the jagged peaks of the Spenser range.

After 30 minutes we declared the innings closed and retired from the peak and bum-slid/slogged our way back down (must get myself some snow shoes!) arriving back at the hut at 7pm to make it a 13 hour night-day-nighter!

Walking out the next day we invested some time at Maruia hot pools, which was a welcome finish to a somewhat more challenging than expected trip!

For those of you wondering why some fairly staunch mountaineers would have themselves associated with a mountain with such an odd name ("The gentle Knight was pricking on the plaine" - Ed) there is a bit of history there. Faerie Queene is a poetic parody by Edmund Spenser from the 1500's. Apparently it depicts the Catholic church as being corrupt but about to be reformed by Queen Elizabeth the 1st - quite appropriate for a QB weekend climb!

The mountain was named by an eccentric Irishman WL Travers who worked as a surveyor for Nelson-Marlborough. He named a number of other features after poets too including Lake Tennyson and the Spenser range. See the following links for details. http://www.sparknotes.com/poetry/fqueen/ and
http://www.patbarrettimages.co.nz/words/matakitaki191099.shtml

Kevin Patterson

Pete's Post from Antarctica

As I write this, it is mid June. The shortest day of the year is only a week away and we'll celebrate with a mid-winter party and a polar plunge. It is now dark all the time, but in the middle of the day there's still a faint blue colour in the sky and a red glow on the horizon to the north. It is also getting colder, so I'll make a few observations about "cold".

When I first arrived here in October, I thought that -15degC was pretty cold. Now I'd call it a warm day. The difference is partly explained by acclimatising to the temperature. But we've also learned to manage the clothing systems to stay warm. We were issued with a mountain of clothing,and each of us needed to work out which garments and gloves provide the best balance between insulation from the outside temperature and preventing sweating inside the clothing. My customary outer layer is a one-piece insulated suit that we call a bunny suit. It is really a garment designed for people who work in freezers. Most other staff wear Fairydown down-insulated jackets and salopettes, or insulated canvas garments made by the Carhutt company in America - these are very good..

We are given polypro neck gaiters that can be pulled up around the face, as well as a balaclava. My usual head covering is a beanie hat plus an American ski mask that looks like something Hannibal Lector would wear. I find this provides enough protection for exposed skin on my face whilst still allowing me to breathe without my goggles fogging up. The polypro neck gaiters retain the exhaled air too close to the face, and most people who wear them experience the goggle-fogging problem.

Yesterday I was working outside on the Ross Ice Shelf about 40 minutes drive from the base. There was no wind, and the temperature was minus 40. The air was full of tiny ice crystals that sparkled in the light from the vehicle, or my head torch. Despite the air temperature, I was toasty warm in my bunny suit, and ski mask. I had two layers of clothes under the bunny suit, and wore polypro liner gloves and leather work gloves. I also carried thick insulated mittens with chemical heat pads inside them, but didn't need to use them. If the wind had been blowing more than a few knots, I would have felt the cold. Windchill is the big killer, not the ambient air temperature.

At minus 40, the vehicles take twenty minutes to warm up. We drive Toyota Landcruisers that are fitted with an electrical heater in the block. When we park the vehicle, we plug it in to an extension cord at our "hitching rail" and this keeps the engine temperature warm enough to ensure we can start it. There's also an electric fan heater in the cab, controlled by a thermostat.
The cabin temperature when we first get into the vehicle is usually nice and warm at about freezing point.

At minus 40, the gearbox oil is very thick and sluggish. It is difficult to change gears until it warms up. The hydraulic fluid also thickens in the cold, and when you release the clutch it takes two or three seconds for the pedal to come back up. This makes it interesting to do a hill start !! The low temperatures are hard on the fanbelts, and they often break. Each vehicle is fitted with dual fanbelts.

Cold air cannot hold much moisture, and the humidity very low - even inside the base. The dry air allows static electricity to build up, and every time you touch something metallic a spark jumps from your hand. We learn to regularly touch the metal walls or framework as we walk around the base to discharge ourselves before the charge builds up too much.

The dry air also dehydrates you. We need to drink much more liquid (including beer ???) than we do in NZ.

The texture of the snow is very dry and fine. When the wind is blowing, the drifting snow looks almost like smoke wafting across the surface of the road.

Last week the temperature reached -48degC. At these temperatures you can take a cup of boiling water and throw it up into the air, where it freezes instantly and falls back as a powdery shower of ice crystals. Interestingly enough, if you try this with cols water it doesn't freeze, but falls back to the ground as liquid. Perhaps someone would like to explain the physics behind this - surely hot water needs to become cold water before it can freeze?

Some days there is a temperature differential of sixty degrees or more between the outside air and the interior of the base. You notice this when you stand in a doorway and feel the heat racing out past you. All our heating energy comes from the diesel generators and boilers, so we have to be careful not to leave the doors open too long.

Pete de Joux from Antarctic

Photo Comp Results

Paul Clarke judged over a hundred photographs submitted by Wellington NZAC members.

Alpine Activity Honours were accorded to Peter Laurenson and Tom Wilson. The champion slides was entitled "Frozen ocean" by Steve Eastwood.

Alpine General honours photos were taken by Merewyn Ellis, Andy Maloney, and Nigel Roberts. The Alpine General champion picture was "Sense of scale" by Peter Laurenson.

Alpine Nature honours slides were taken by Peter Laurenson, Andy Maloney, and Michael van Geldern. The Alpine Nature champion shot was called "King Black" and was by -- yes, you guessed it -- Peter Laurenson.

Rock climbing honours were taken by Michele Domaneschi, Merewyn Ellis, and John McNaughton. The rock climbing champion photo was entitled "Milford air traffic control" and was by Michele Domaneschi .

In the photo journalism category there were honours photos by Toby Gee and Peter Laurenson, but no champion picture.

In the humour section, honours was accorded to a Tom Wilson photo, and the champion slides was "Hazards of Nepali hospitality No. 1: Being mistaken for a pot plant" by Andy Maloney.

The Grand Champion photo of the evening was Peter Laurenson's "Sense of scale".

Many thanks to all who entered this year's photo comp and especial thanks to Paul Clarke for his discerning judging and positive comments about people's pictures. Congratulations to all honours and champion photo takers, and thanks to firms and people who donated prizes for all the champion pictures.

BABIES!

Kathleen and Dave Langrish are expecting a baby boy sometime next week, or could be this week, you never know. We didn't want to be left out after Michele and Karen's good news in the last VertiGO. Babies take about 3 months to be able to hold their heads up, and therefore he will be able to go in the back-pack when the spring corn arrives on Ruapehu. So, see you all in the spring!
KL

New Tongariro Guide

Some of you may know that the NZAC plans to publish a guide to climbing in Tongariro National Park. That includes rockclimbing, ice climbing, alpine climbing and ski touring. As the editor, I've been trying to string together some words in a dilatory fashion for the past few years, but now I've been given a deadline (end of the year!) I've had to start getting busy.

What I really need are good, reasonably recent pictures of people alpine climbing, ice climbing, rock climbing and ski touring. General shots showing routes would also be really useful, especially alpine & ice routes. I'm also happy to look at scenic gems and nice shots of the alpine huts.

Please, rummage through your boxes of slides of the last 10 years of climbing, and if you are heading up this winter, please take a camera. Digital shots are okay: preferably take a 5 megapixel camera, but definitely use the highest quality setting.

Best to email me: richard@growingwild.co.nz
or you can call me: 383 4224

Avalanche Course

The course will be run at whakapapa ski field 18-25 September inclusive.
It will be a residential course based at a Ski lodge. ( which one is subject to final confirmation)
Cost $1400.00
Successful participants will qualify for the Avalanche Safety Management Stage 1 Certificate which is awarded by Mountain Safety Council.
The syllabus is now common to all providers in NZ and is moderated by the Avalanche education working group under the oversight of the Mountain Safety Council Avalanche committee.
Whitireia Polytechnic is now the official north Island provider.
Course Director will be Bill Atkinson ( NZMGA) assisted by Henry Worsp who has been the RAL Snow Safety Officer on Whakapapa for the last few years.
Further info including the required gear list is available from me at Whitireia. The best way to contact me is by email, c.hall@whitireia.ac.nz Interested parties can also check the Whitireia website for an overview of the course.

For Sale/Wanted to buy

Personal Locator Beacon
I have an emergency locater beacon. When I am not using it, which is quite e few weekends, it is essentially a useless lump of plastic. If people want to borrow it for their weekend trips, then thay can borrow it off me. It is hardly going to depreciate with use. Club members might as well get as much use out of it as possible. I just hope that while people carry it, they don't have to "use" it. Know what I mean? Anyway, the offer is there. People can contact me on this e-mail address if they want to borrow it.
Sam - Samuel.Newton@nzpost.co.nz

For Sale: Adjustable 12 point crampons with key in Charlet Moset crampon bag. Good condition. $140.
Contact Chris on 021 307 353.

For Sale: Makalu La Sportiva boots, mens size 41 European. Hardly worn though have been snow sealed, in excellent condition. $200neg, phone Erin 021 339382 or email erinpentie@yahoo.com

For Sale:
· Mountain Designs Fox alpine pack 50L -used once and decided got too many
packs! New $449, Sell $150
· Adidas Womens running shoes s9 US -Brand new, been sitting around for
few months. New $289, Sell $150
· Mountain Designs Outrace pack (Adventure racing/Running) -Been used few
times, as new. New around $110, Sell $50
· Thermarest explorer (short) Thick and comfy. Sell $40
· Asolo AFS Supersoft (Plastics) Mens s9 1/2 UK -Used few times,
minor surface scuffs, wrong fit for my foot. Sell $150
Items in Wellington, Pics Available: Email Matt mattm@ampro.co.nz

For Sale: Salomon SM lites, Size 8,1 major trip.
Selling because they are too small. $250ono.
Contact gl@nzalpine.wellington.org.nz

For Sale:
· Pack- Macpac Tore 80lt size 3, black ,quantum harness, very good cond $210
· Pack- Fairydown travel pack, top & side opening, 70lt, med harness size $60
· Tent- Macpac Apollo, 2 person Dome tent, new & unused 04 model, turquoise $260
· Tent Macpac Olympus 2-3 person tunnel tent, very good cond. Only used ½ doz times. Colour -dark blue $620
· GPS Garman Etrex Summit. GPS + barometer, altimeter, electronic compass. $300
· GPS- Garman 76. GPS, compass, altimeter, barometer model $350
· Watch/ HR Monitor- Polar AXN700, new in box. Titanium body, Heart Rate, alti, barom, compass, training program CD. $490
· Mtn Bike- Canadian built, Chameleon hard tail, Lg size. Deore/ LX gears, Avid disc brakes, front shocks $880
· Mtn Bike- Avanti hard tail, Barracuda frame / Hammer components, med size. Deore/ LX gears, Hydraulic brakes, Rock shock front shocks $1000
· TV- 21inch Phillips, teletext as new $320 used for about 6mths
CONTACT - Pete Blaxter, 021 554 006, pblaxter@doc.govt.nz

Quiz Number 18

THE ANSWER TO QUIZ NUMBER 18

Quiz number 18 featured the dramatic photograph taken on South Georgia by Colin Monteath that was on the cover of the May 2005 edition of "Wilderness" magazine, and the question was, Who was the person in thephotograph? The answers submitted to the chairperson were almost equally divided between Greg Mortimer (which was wrong) and John Nankervis (correct). The first correct entry drawn live at the 13 June section night meeting was submitted by Matt Stevens, who was rewarded with a dozen bottles of Monteith's Black beer (whether Matt in turn rewarded all those who claimed to have helped him with the answer is, as yet,unknown).

QUIZ NUMBER 19

Nigel Roberts' 19th quiz has been inspired by the fact that NZAC national president, Judy Reid, is a classics scholar. Here is another picture. It's a famous 17th century painting by Van Baburen, and it shows Prometheus being punished (for stealing fire from the gods and giving it to humankind) by being chained to a mountain top by Hephaestus/ Vulcan (while Hermes / Mercury looks grinningly on from the side). Nigel Roberts' nineteenth quiz questions are, What is the modern name of the mountain to which Prometheus was chained, and why is the mountain particularly well-known?

Email your answers to nr@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz by no later than noon on Sunday, 3 July 2005 with 'Quiz Number 19' in the subject line (otherwise your email is likely to be destroyed as spam!). The winner will receive a bottle containing an appropriately classical drink.

And here are the club trips ....

Wellington Section Trips - Trips are a key part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to Michele Domaneschi or Rachel Depree (trips @nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)

Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going.

See you in the hills! WE NEED MORE TRIPS! COME ON GUYS

Trips for the Calendar for the rest of 2005…

Check out the proposed and planned new list for 2005. We need trip organisers to put their hands up for what are bound to be outstanding adventures. There's something for everyone in here with a mix of snow, rock and even a spot of ski touring.