February 2004 Newletter

Rock Hop 2004 (the Wellington leg of the National Bouldering Series) is on this Saturday 24 January at Baring Head. Registration from 9 am, “competition” such as it is (Mike’s words, not mine! Ed.) starts at 10. Great day out, social occasion, heaps of spot prizes – will be great to see everyone there watching or participating!

Section trips news

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories.

OVERSEAS NEWS! Yunnan-Tibet Gorge Country (Oct/Nov 2003)

Recently Ron Stutter, Julian McPike, Clinton Wadsworth, Geoff Spearpoint and John Nankervis crossed the Yangtze and Mekong (both by bridge) and in an auspicious year followed the pilgrimage circuit round the beautiful Kawagubo massif. All the major peaks, up to 6700 metres, are unclimbed. Most look technically demanding. Using horses/mules for load carrying they crossed two high passes to enter Tibet and from the Salween River went up a side valley into the western side of the massif. They climbed the East (sadly lower) peak of Bangxung Laka (5877 metres). They continued the clockwise pilgrimage with many Buddhist companions over another 3 passes to the Wi Chu river and eventually back to the Mekong and Yangtze which they again chose to cross by bridge. This may have been the first climbing trip to Yunnan by New Zealanders since the women’s expedition in 1938 guided by Mick Bowie and Kurt Suter.

As one would expect with a trip organised by Kevin, plans and logistics were impeccable; as usual with a climbing trip, things didn't quite go according to plan. The aim was for three of us (Kevin, Kate, Rachael) to fly into Plateau Hut on the Friday with all our gear and heaps of food and for Craig and Saul to walk in up the Haast Ridge. We were hoping to climb Mt Dixon and perhaps a couple of other peaks in the area.

The forecast looked good. As we drove from Christchurch the sky was completely clear and full of stars. We were feeling lucky. We spent the night at Unwin and woke on Friday morning to gray skies and low cloud. No flights that morning, and the S/E wind meant that the weather might hang around. Spent Friday bouncing off the walls and roof of Unwin doing transceiver practice, prussiking and trying not to look at the sky on the basis that a watched sky never clears. It didn’t anyway.

If anything, the cloud had lowered a little on Saturday morning and we were beginning to get a little stir crazy, so around 10 we made the decision to walk in. We cut down our loads. After a couple of hours, we were fully appreciative of the joys of moraine bashing in plastic boots carrying a load and in no doubt about what was bashing whom. We headed up the Boyes Col, but realised that we had left it too late and weren’t moving fast enough to make it up safely so turned back before Cinerama Col. Discovered the joys of moraine bashing downhill in plastic boots carrying a load in the dark. Eventually arrived back to Ball Shelter in the dark and spent the night there, undoubtedly spoiling the plans of the couple who were already comfortably installed with a bottle of wine and a couple of candles.

So next morning was time for a new plan. Rachael was exhausted and sore unsurprisingly only 5 months after a major accident (thanks Kate, you’re so kind and tactful!) so wisely decided her climbing was over for that weekend. The rest of us decided we would see what was on offer beyond Mueller Hut. Looked as if we would get good weather arriving in glorious sunshine to the extremely comfortable facilities of the new hut. There were plenty of folk already in residence, but still plenty of room. Craig cooked up a fantastic rice dish, and we retired hopeful of eventually getting some climbing in.

Made an early-ish start, chivvied by Kevin and his soon-to-become infamous door closing wake-up call. Our objective was Mt Sealy. It was a beautiful day to be in the mountains and conditions were great, although it was obvious they were going to deteriorate in the heat of the day. Had an uneventful traverse across the Annette Plateau, arrived at Sladden Saddle and after some discussion over exactly which mountain Sealy was, arrived at the base around 11.30 am. The route looked fairly straight forward so we elected to leave our packs and ropes behind and climbed with just our tools. Initially went up a 35/40 degree snow slope for about 100 metres, then traversed over and around some rocks, slightly tricky in crampons, and I for one wished that we had a rope at this point as it was quite exposed. Then up another short slope to the summit. The route was rated 1+ but we estimated it was probably more like a 2. By the time we reached the summit, the clouds had come in and we could see almost nothing. Came down, bathed in that warm glow of self-congratulation one gets after summiting anything, and had a long lunch break. Perhaps over long as it turned out.

By the time we set off for the Hut, conditions had deteriorated significantly. Those of us without anti-balling plates were vowing they would be our next purchase as we knocked off snow every few steps. As the day wore on, we could hear avalanches thundering down the faces opposite every 10 minutes or so, and the slopes we were on were becoming increasingly avalanche prone. As usual, rather than the trip home being the easy part, it was the hardest part of the whole day slogging our way through very soft snow and trying to keep to the safest part of the slope. Special thanks to Saul for improvising anti-balling plates for me. Tip for those no 8 wire enthusiasts out there – zinc oxide tape works better than duct tape!

Arrived back at the hut, had a huge feed of pasta and tuna and went to bed. It snowed prettily heavily all night so our timing was just right. Headed back to the Village and the Old Mountaineer’s Café next day for lunch and well-earned beers. Bade farewell to Craig and Saul and back to Chch. Not quite the weekend we planned but great fun all the same.

Trip participants: Kevin Patterson, Rachael Schmidt, Kate Smith, Saul Dixon, Craig Jones

Tasman Saddle November 30 to December 7 2003

A 2am arrival at the backpackers in a converted 1950’s old peoples home. Soft beds. Better than no beds (though some people may disagree).

Dissension in the ranks. The cars go to different breakfast spots. It’s fine and sunny at Mt Cook. However it’s too windy and the planes haven’t flown all day. We claim bunks at Unwin. Lynn, Dieter and Dave S head to Sebastopol Bluffs. The rest of us hoon past the tourists up the Hooker. Rain. We pay our respects at the memorial and try not think too much about what the plaques say. Coffee and cake at Charlie’s. We see Dave Langrish (from the Wilkin trip) there – he recommends flying out of Tasman Saddle.

Be at the airport at 11am. Okay. Chitty, Matthew and Garth volunteer to go in the Cessna with the 1.5 hour walk. The rest of us go in the Porter with the heavy gear and the 15 minute walk. We meet a guide. She forgets we are not her students and goes into lecture mode. Lunch. We head to Hochstetter Dome. Matthew stays behind. Lynn nimbly floats over a crevasse. Rach and Caro jump into it and Garth tries to leap down the mountain in a single bound.

The forecast was for the weather to get bad in the afternoon. We get up at 2am. We all head to Elie. Lynn and Dieter lead. We don’t take the best route. It was dark. Onto the Anna Glacier. Caro and Garth go across the snow bridge and find a very large hole. Dieter and Lynn try to go around and find a soft snow bridge and a dodgy route. We retreat. In the afternoon the bad weather arrives.

The weather is still there in the morning. Matthew is onto his third book. Lynn has FHM. The boys learn how to attract women. Thankfully they don’t try it. Rach sleeps. Ben sleeps. It clears. Dieter and Lynn take their rock gear to the bottom of Darwin.

Caro, Garth, Chitty, Ben, Dave and Matthew climb the perilous south face of Mt Aylmer.

Caro and Garth rope up and go to Mt Green. The rope doesn’t come off till they get back to the hut. Chitty, Dave and Rach rope up and leave the hut. Then they return. Then they leave again. They are now all wearing helmets. Ben and Matthew go to Brodrick. They get to Tasman Saddle and decide it is a long way and climb Mt Abel instead. From Kelman Hut they don’t bring back fresh FHMs. Lynn and Dieter delight in the quality NZ rock and get halfway along to Annan.

The snow is nice. Garth kicks great steps. As Garth and Caro come down the summit face Chitty and Dave go up. Rach sits at Divers Col. Garth and Caro sit there too then realise the snow is getting soft and leave when the boys get back.

We opt for the avalanche debris slopes over the dodgy snow bridge between two large crevasses and stumble back to the hut in soft conditions to escape the heat and sun.

Lynn and Dieter get up so early that they have to sit at Divers Col for an hour waiting for the sun to come up. They climb Mt Green and then Mt Walter because it was there.

Chitty climbs Peak 9144. Matthew declines due to dodgy rock (and he’d been there before).

Breakfast, elevenses, lunch. Rach sleeps. Ben sleeps. Afternoon tea, supper, dinner, dessert. Still no new FHMs have been brought back from Kelman.

The weather forecast for Friday is bad. There is a severe weather warning for Friday afternoon including 150ml of rain within 15km of the main divide in 3 hours. We had planned to walk out.

3.30am. No one has slept well. It’s quite windy and drizzling. After a bit of discussion we go back to sleep. Caro dreams of basketball player size aliens taking over the earth.

6.30am. It’s a bit calmer but there’s not much time to beat the heavy rain to the moraine wall.

We do long division and multiplication to work out Garth’s BMI. We also learn Garth was part of the King Country Knot Tying Champions at age 12.

More cards, food, sleep. The wind is picking up again and it’s raining. Going to the toilet is an effort. More food. The toilet gets fuller.

We listen to the DoC radio sked. It’s Andy Hoyle (has been involved with Wgtn AIC in the past).

Rach: "I’m going to miss his voice. I’ll have to get him to ring me when I get home – its quite sexy"

6.00am. We get up. The weather is slowly clearing. Lots of wind deposited snow and no freeze.

Soft snow, white ice, lunch then moraine. It’s quite hot now. We run out of water. The front team spend an hour trying to cross the river at the base of Garbage Gut. Bad blisters. Car shuttles.

We walk into The Old Mountaineers Café in plastics, gaiters and climbing clothes. Wedges for dinner. Thanks Charlie.

* Garth was in fact referring to the musical abilities of Rod Stewart who happened to be playing on Classic Hits at approximately 1.45am in the morning. However music had nothing to do with the enormous blister he got on his hand one time from his pole.

Trip participants: Garth London, Caroline Duggan, Rachael Schmidt, Matthew Stevens, Ben Anderson, Dave Shanks, Dave Chittenden, Lynn Ayers, Dieter Ayers.

(For Great Photos of this trip go to the Wellington Section webpage under Trip Reports)

Wanaka

I hear that Steve Hart and Michele and Karen Domaneschi spent some time in Wanaka after the National Climbing Camp and managed to do several routes in the Tombstone, including Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun (16), Fingers Columbia (17) and Rusty Pins (18). Earlier that day, Steve took John (age 10) up various 12’s and 14’s in the area, some of which are not yet written up. Steve says there seems to be lots of development still going on down here and lots of rock to go at, so go for it!

Successful NZAC CLIMBING CAMP!

90 climbers took part in the 2004 NZAC climbing camp based in Elcho Hut in the scenic Hopkins Valley, 40km west of Twizel. The 8-day long climbing camp concluded on Sunday 11 January after waiting for flooded rivers to subside.

Climbers, ranging in age from 16 to ’60 something’ from New Zealand, Australia, Canada, England, Wales, Scotland, Norway and Germany took part in the largest climbing camp held by the NZAC.

Climbers completed ascents of Mt Ward (10 climbers), Mt Reticence (3 climbers), Hut Peak (12 climbers), Dasler Pinnacles (27 climbers) and Gillies Peak (3 climbers). New ascent routes were completed on the striking 600 metre high west face of Dasler Pinnacles (2312 m) by Kevin Hammond, and on the south face of Mt Reticence (2310 m) by Ross Cullen, Kevin Hammond and Rebecca Smith (aged 10).

The climbing camp is held each year at a different location in the NZ mountains. NZAC president Dave Bamford attended the camp and commented, ‘The camp was the most successful yet held by NZAC. It was pleasing to see climbers exercising their climbing skills, good judgment and successfully completing ascents of peaks in the valley.’ He stated the large numbers of participants, and the high levels of climbing activity clearly indicated that climbers are enthusiastic about their sport and are ambitious to complete repeat climbs and new ascents. Climbers he had spoken to were unanimous in their praise for the organisation of the event and had revelled in the superb Southern Alps scenery.

The climbing camp organiser Steve Hart commented that ‘given the variability of the weather and the considerable amount of climbing undertaken it was gratifying that there were no incidents.’

Contacts:
David Bamford – President 027 457 0313, 04 472 3114
Steve Hart – Climbing Camp Coordinator, 021 170 7396. 04 973 8079
Ross Cullen – Hopkins climbing expert who can supply digital photos of the camp, 03 325 3807

Editor’s note: I know there were Wgtn section members at the Camp – send me your stories! Nank and Dave B tell me they have more info….

Congratulations to Mike Williams and Simon Chapple on the respective new additions to their lives! We expect to see them climbing down at Ferg’s soon! (Mike and Simon too)

Best wishes to Mark Dossor from the Wellington section, we hope you are recovering well.

It’s that time of year again! Summer Rock will run from late Feb through to March 2004. The course will involve two weekend trips away to the middle of the North Island and day trips to Baring Head and Titahi Bay. Great to polish up the rope work and learn some rock climbing skills and techniques. There will be a post course trip too, maybe Payne’s Ford or Mangatepopo. Places are filling fast so phone Scott Taylor/Mike O’Brien on 380 0913 or email Mike: mike_goesaclimbn@hotmail.com

Recent events at Aoraki Mt Cook National Park provide a sad reminder of the potential hazards within our sport. One of these hazards, avalanches, are an unpredictable phenomenon that can occur at any time of the year. Good judgment and experience are not always sufficient for avoiding them. Buried victims need to be rescued very quickly by their companions. Wearing avalanche transceivers makes this more easily possible.

You should always think about wearing an avalanche transceiver when travelling in the snow away from controlled skifield areas. At any time of the year, and on any type of terrain.
Don’t let the expense of buying an avalanche transceiver put you off.

The Wellington Avalanche Transceiver Trust (Inc.) has provided the general public in the Wellington region with 10 avalanche transceivers. These are available from Mainly Tramping and Hangdog at a very low cost.

From Garth London: ‘The Section has recently purchased new gear. This mainly included new helmets, ropes and harnesses. The Committee is currently formulating a policy on gear usage including for official trips and instruction courses. This will be advised sometime in the near future. This is the biggest single gear purchase for many years and represents a major investment in the future.

CHAIRPERSON'S 7th QUIZ

Before Phil Castle’s 3 November section night talk about big wall climbing, Nigel Roberts noted that the biggest wall he’d ever climbed consisted of 10 pitches – three on Fraser’s Variation, two on Arrow Face, and five on Arrow Final. The question therefore for his 7^th quiz was which mountain was this climb on?

The answer is Table Mountain, the stunning landmark that makes Cape Town such a beautiful city.

Derek Richardson knows Table Mountain well and he’s provided the following description of the climb that Nigel Roberts did. ‘The first recorded ascent was by G.F.Traverse Jackson – alone – in 1897. It consists of 3 sections divided naturally by the rock bands on the mountain, the final section finishes spectacularly below the Cable Station and provides endless entertainment to tourists. Arrow Face gets its name from the large white arrowhead in the middle section and has an old South African grading of E (about 13/14 in NZ parlance). The lower section has had a number of variations over the years – Fraser’s Variation was considered pretty severe in its time (probably about a 15/16).’

Five correct answers were submitted by the deadline, and in a live draw conducted by Paul Clarke at the 1 December section night, Caroline Duggan won a bottle of South African wine (but she wasn’t even there, she was at Tasman Saddle Hut…! Ed.)

Nigel says this was the second time in a mere seven months that Caroline has won a prize for correctly answering his quizzes, and it has led to a CHANGE IN THE RULES! Caroline’s wine was not taken away from her (he couldn’t do that to a young bride-to-be) but from now on people will be eligible to win his quiz no more than once every 12 months. The Chairperson is determined to share prizes more widely round Club members!

CHAIRPERSON'S 8th QUIZ

For his 8^th quiz section, Nigel has composed a special holiday season riddle. It is: What am I? I am a mountain ski resort, an island whose highest point is a hill 1184 feet high, a curry beloved by Welsh rock jocks, and a large coral atoll.

Email your answers -- with the words "Quiz number 8" in the subject line if you don’t want your email destroyed as Spam --
to chairperson@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz by no later than 12 noon on Sunday, 29 February 2004, to go into a draw for a bottle of something special.

Kara Lipski has done a fantastic job over the years, it is time for someone else to take a turn! If you are interested in helping out, email rs@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz or any other member of the Committee.

Happy New Year to all current and prospective members. It will be great to see as many of you as possible along to the Club nights this year, and I hope we can keep up the momentum of last year in terms of Club trips etc.

Despite my invitation, I haven’t had any keen people wanting to take on the Editor job, so speak now or forever hold your peace! (At least for this year anyway). Just kidding, you’ve got me in the meantime, but as I have said before, if there are any budding journo’s out there feel free to drop me a line, assistance is always gratefully received!

For those of you who know the former Ed., Simon, you will be pleased/frightened/worried for the state of the world (add appropriate adjective here) that he has now spawned and he and Fleur are the proud parents of little Joseph. Well done guys.

In preparing this month’s VertiGO, I have had preying in the back of my mind the tragic summer we have seen on New Zealand’s mountains. Events have shown that all the skills and experience in the world often cannot prevent the horrors caused by objective danger, and, conversely, with all the stupidity in the world (I am still wondering as no doubt are many of you, how one could take 4 days to reach Haast Hut), people can still survive. We do not conquer the mountains, they sometimes let us onto their slopes to wonder at their beauty, but they often pay scant regard for care, skill and experience. So a serious plea to you all to take as much care as possible out there. The thoughts of the Wellington section are with all those families and friends who lost loved ones this season.

Onto another plea – keep those trip reports coming! Unless you want to hear from me raving on every month – ah, that has got you all to your keyboards, I knew it would! Please email me anything you have been up to (newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz). It is great to have as broad a variety of stories as possible. See you all soon.

Help wanted!

“I am trying to find a little history on a late uncle of mine, Dennis Stephenson, who spent quite some time climbing many mountains in the 70’s. I have many photos from 1976 which are copyrighted by my late uncle, who lived in Turangi and died later that year and was buried there I believe. I do hope some of your members may help my plea for a little information.

I have been passed down many images with amazing colour, black and white photos from great heights of many mountains. These photos are of glaciers and many ridges from various mountains at heights of 12,000 ft including Mt Cook. All types of names and descriptions from around NZ…Upper Gorilla Creek Valley, Hochstetter Icefall, Silberhorn, the upper Linda Glacier, Tasman Valley.

For Sale

Boots
La Sportiva Makalu mountaineering boots size men’s 43.5. Too small for owner, worn only 6 or 7 times. $375

Rob Calder, PO Box 641 Masterton, Tel 06 377 0391, Fax 06 377 0396, mobile 027 283 6888, email rcalder@tfpnz.co.nz

Do you have a great photo?

Good enough for the cover of vertiGO? The send it to:
cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

And here are the club trips ....

Trips are a key part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to Mike Williams (trips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)

Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going on a safe and enjoyable trip.