Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first unimpeded Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meetings and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea and coffee afterwards.

The coup has failed. Members have decided that they wish to return to the reliable stodge of the Backbencher Pub on Molesworth St for our pre-section night liasons. It just proves that its hard to break old habits. So from 6:30pm until after 7:00pm we look forward to seeing you there.

Summit of Franklin

South Face of Douglas

Yibai He and I flew into Pioneer Hut 16-20 October, hoping to score some good ice conditions and maybe try a route on the South Face of Douglas Peak. We arrived to a full hut busy with Australian skiers and American climbers. That afternoon we decided to walk around to Douglas to check out conditions on the South Face. This mostly involved standing outside the hut trying to remember how to rope up, fiddling with our snow shoes, poles, axes, crampons, and packs, getting everything on, then taking if off again, and going back inside to pick up helmets, gloves, and cameras. Ah, the freedom of the hills!

The sleep before the climbing day was not ideal – by 10pm we could make out the starry flecks of light from the headlamps of the Americans on Barnicoat’s South Face, opposite the hut. They appeared stuck on the route. Checking again at midnight, we saw a headlight slowly and then very rapidly descend the upper slopes. At 3.30am we got up, unsure whether we would have a day involving amateur SAR or amateur ice climbing. Luckily they were making their way back across easy ground to the hut, so off we went to Douglas.

We knew a nor-west wind would get up during the day. At the base of the route: “Um, yeah, did you feel that last gust? Not sure if we should push on” “Yeah, you're probably right, perhaps we should climb Haidinger or Alack” “Sounds good” “ Mmm, or maybe we should just try the first two pitches, see how things look in daylight” “Yeah, dunno”. Up we went. The first pitch of the route (Left Couloir) was on perfect alpine ice, and by time we were together at the first belay, the sun was up, the weather looked settled, and the climb was on.

Highlights included the solid and featured ice, and ever-expanding views down onto the neve and West Coast forests beyond. The route has no obvious crux, but is rather a series of consistent pitches interspersed with simul-climbing and the odd steep step or traverse. We also tested out our new high-tech tools, a pair of walkie-talkies, which eliminated the traditional shouting/rope pulling circus at belay time. This worked well until Yibai dropped his one. As he was apologising to me I managed to drop his expensive ‘Helium’ quick draw. Despite the name it proved heavier than air.

On return to the hut that night we found the Americans happily recovered from their all-nighter on Barnicoat, and we were happy to help them drink their whisky. It turned out that the ‘rapid descent’ we had seen was an old v-thread blowing out on abseil. Their prussik back-up burned their 8.1mm rope down to a few core threads, the tatters of which were proudly displayed on the hut table!
Tom Wilson

South East Face of Franklin

James Wright & Don French had a quick sojourn into Arthurs Pass to make the first ascent of the South East Face of Franklin (2145ms). They approached via the Edwards and Lake Sally, walking in during heavy rain. Summit day was an over 15 hour affair. The climb, "Way Down Sally" is ice, grade 5-, 8 pitches, topping out just south of the summit.

The above two then joined up with James Broadbent from Christchurch, and headed to the Arrowsmiths (Cameron hut) during the tail end of a southerly. On one of those perfectly fine days they climbed the East Ridge of Jagged. Probably one of NZs finest climbs. The summit was achieved at 3:00pm, and returning to the hut prior to dusk, after another 15 hour day. A number of pillars (shaky towers) near the summit offered challenging route-finding and climbing. The Colior on the NE face offered the key to the quick and successful descend.
Don French

Summer Rock is Back

Once again the Rock instruction course will be run again this year, lead again by Scott Taylor.
It will cover the basics of outdoor climbing on rock. By the end of the course you will have the skills to climb with style and grace, abseil, lead belay, lead climb on bolted routes and set up a slack line.

Approximate cost will be about $400. The course will be limited to 10 people. It will run from the end of Feb through to early April (dates to be confirmed)

Contact Blair Hiscoke (bh@ nzalpine.wellington.net.nz) or if you are really keen send your $50 deposit (with your name) to seal your place to :
'Summer Rock'
16 Manley Terrace
Newtown

NZAC Climbing Camp 2007 Register before December 1, help the organisers and avoid a late fee! Get into spectacular mountains and ranges that don’t see many ascents. Go on day climbs / scrambles / tramps / mountain bike rides or longer multi – day trips to some major climbing destinations like D’Archiac, Cloudy Peak, Mt Arrowsmith or the Garden of Allah. When? – 30 December to 6 January Where? – Upper Rangitata (Mesopotamia) Costs? - $40 for individual members, $60 for a family if you register before December 1. What to do when you get there? Check out the information pack on-line at www.alpineclub.org.nz See you there!

Touring Himalaya Guru

In Association with Lonely Planet, World Expeditions are touring Garry Weare - an absolute guru on the Himalayas.

Garry is a veteran trip leader, photographer, Australian Himalayan Foundation Director and author of Lonely Planet's classic Trekking in the Indian Himalaya guidebook, now in its 4th edition. He has explored the Himalaya for over 30 years, covering over more than 15,000 miles on foot! Based on his wealth of experience, Garry will present an informative and entertaining slideshow about both classic and brand new trekking opportunities available across Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, Sikkim and of course, the Indian Himalaya. Join Garry as he brings the world's most spectacular mountain range to life! Garry will be including a week in the New Zealand as part of his world tour from where he has had sell out shows in USA, Canada, Australia and the UK.

Wellington: Wed 29th Nov, 6.30pm Free Entry (bookings essential ph 0800 350 354 to reserve a seat)

Get More From Your Membership

The following companies have kindly offering NZAC members discounts on their products andservices. Please see the Member Benefits page www.alpineclub.org.nz for details and conditions.

Mapworld - 10% off topo and park maps
Glacier Helicopters and the Helicopter Line - 10% off scenic flights

... and the Christmas Special

From now until Dec 15, 2006 members may purchase either of two special package book deals. The Mount Aspiring and Barron Saddle/Mt Brewster guidebooks, or the Tongariro and Taranaki guidebooks will sell for $35 a pair (+$4.50 p&p)
Margaret (at) alpineclub.org.nz

Two brand new guidebook titles from the NZAC

The Darran Mountains
by Craig Jefferies

The book contains over 500 climbing routes, many of them recent, and is illustrated with over 200 photographs by some of New Zealand’s top outdoor photographers. Most climbs are illustrated with line-topos or photo-topos. You’ll also find extensive history and geology sections.

Whatever your reason for visiting this remote climbers’ paradise, this book provides the essential information and inspiration. 312 pages.
NZAC Members $30 / Non-Members $45

* * *

Kaikoura – Kahurangi Including Nelson Lakes National Park
by Ben Winnubst

The top of the South Island contains a spectacular variety of mountains, stretching from the majestic Kaikoura Ranges in the east, to the scenic gems of Nelson Lakes, the Spenser Mountains, and Kahurangi National Park in the west.

Whether it’s a technical ascent or an easier day trip that takes your fancy, you’ll find guidance, inspiration and diversity in this book. Clear descriptions and numerous photos and photo-topos for the major routes make choosing and planning a climb simple. This guidebook is the essential companion for anyone seeking to climb or explore the mountains of the greater Nelson/Marlborough region. 112 pages.
NZAC Members $25 / Non-Members $35

Orders:
Phone: 03 377-7595 Fax: 03 377-7594
E-mail: publications@alpineclub.org.nz
Post: PO Box 786, Christchurch.
Web: www.alpineclub.org.nz

Banff Palmerston North

If you would like to help the Wellington section stage a Palmerston North screening of the 2007 (May) edition of the Banff International Film Festival, then contact the editor (md@...). You get to watch ALL the movies, choose the ones that are best for your audience, and bask in the warm glow of fame for 10 seconds. The Wellington section and national office will give volunteers all the support and guidance required to make the event a success.

Editor

January Section Barbeque

The January section night will be held at Fergs Rock and Kayak on January 29, starting at 18:30. Attendees will get a barbeque, climbing for the night, and BEER (once you have finished climbing)... all for free. Come along and tell big lies about your summer adventures.

Editor

Aconcagua : 2007

The highest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere and outside Asia is the perfect choice to take your high altitude trekking to the next level. I'm organizing an Aconcagua expedition on 11-12/2007 and I'm looking for people to join the core group to work out the details during the next few months.

The expedition will be as independent as possible and guided or unguided depending on the route choice. Climbing Aconcagua does not necessarily require technical climbing skills but experience in high altitude trekking and fitness is required as the goal is not to use external help beyond the base camp. Later, when the exact budget, date, route and timetable have been set the expedition will be open for any club members to join.

Especially for those who aim on taking eight thousanders later Aconcagua is extremely good practice. I am also considering combining an acclimatisation trip to the Cotopaxi (and possibly the other volcanos there) in Equador just before the expedition. Please contact me through e-mail at jsarkila@gmail.com for more information and visit www.aconcagua.com for general information about the mountain.

Juho Sarkila, Wellington