3rd December Section Night: Legendary sandbagger Don French to talk of attempt on Jannu:

Don French, the man infamous for describing climbing Mt Cook as "little more than a tramp" to a naive foreign visitor (who was later found mummified in his Tevas at 2900m down a crevasse on the Linda glacier, so the tourist did really, really, well under adverse circumstances), will be talking about his 1987 attempt on Mt Jannu (7710m) in Nepal. After all these years Don unnecessarily cautions that "the line between fact and fiction may be a bit blurred". It was always so, Don, it was always so!

In addition, because it is Christmas, free drinks and nibbles are being provided by the club!

Note: no January Section night!

Pwhoarr! Al Lowrie, ace of retro cool, taking a well earned break on the way up Te Ao Whekere

Proposed road threatens Baring Head boulders

In the Evening Post of the 15th of November an article titled "Battle lines drawn over coast road" appeared describing three proposed options for a road linking Eastbourne and Wainuiomata.

Option 1 upgrades the Baring Head Saddle track and would have no impact on the rock (cost $1.5M-2.0M). Option 2 upgrades a Pencarrow Station farm track and would have no impact on the rock (cost $6.9-$7.5M). Option 3 would run around Baring Head itself and presumably the only way through is to bulldoze large amounts of the best bouldering in the North Island (cost $2M-$2.7M). Thus on a cost basis options 1 and 3 are most attractive.

The proposed road appears to be driven by business and community interests in Wainuiomata who are concerned about a declining population and falling property values in the suburb. The road is reported by Post Reporter Hank Schouten to have additional support of lower Hutt major John Terris but not Eastbourne ward representatives.

The proposed road seems rather odd. It is not clear that it would reverse declining property values or shorten access at all to Wainuiomata. At the same time, any rises in Wainuiomata property values through more people living there would be offset by falls in Eastbourne property values because of higher levels of through traffic. If the aim is to increase Wainuiomata property values, why not cut out the middle man and hand over the money directly as a subsidy for buying houses in Wainui rather than build a road, which may not actually achieve the stated goal? And since when has the community as a whole thought it fair to fork out cash simply to increase the property values in one particular area?

The other seemingly odd aspect of the proposal is the reported costing. A sum of less than $3 million seems rather light to build what amounts to over 12 km of road and engineer a bridge across the Wainuiomata river.

The Post reports that the Wainui Community board would consider options last week. Vertigo spoke to reporter Hank Schouten and gave him a comment on the use of Baring Head by rock climbers for a follow-up article which was run in the Post on Monday 19th of November.

In terms of narrow climber interest, it may be that the non-round Baring Head road options increase climbability somewhat by allowing easier access through the Eastbourne side. It may also be that for some climbers the round Baring Head option, while destroying some rock, would be worth supporting because it increases ease of access to the remaining rock. Yet others may consider that the advancing tide of tarmacadam ruins the unique ambience of the Head.

Vertigo is interested in readers' thoughts.

The current state of play is that the Hutt City Council is seeking government funding for a social and economic feasibility study. The report is that they will seek funding from the Community Employment Group of the Department of Labour. If this is the best funding option for a feasibility study, several sources indicate that the chances of much further happening is low.

However if such a study goes ahead, the Wellington section and perhaps the club at a national level, will need to make serious submissions on behalf of local and New Zealand climbers.

Other news

· Mike O'Brien is back in town following his 25m groundfall abseiling in France. He is still on crutches and some excellent drugs but is progressing well; our sources indicate that he hopes to be back on the rock by autumn. His claims to fame now include the fact that the previous occupant of his Sheffield hospital bed was gritstone ace Neil Bentley. The bed had also been occupied in more distant times by Joe Simpson of Touching the Void fame. Vertigo is proud to report that members of our section and New Zealanders can have climbing accidents of true international calibre. We also hope they changed the sheets.

· The club's Spring Rock course is going well with nine keen students improving at huge rates of knots. More news in February Vertigo with a student write-up.

· Trouble at Wharepapa: Things appear to be coming to a head between Bryce Martin and the landowner of the Wharepapa and Froggatts crags, a man proceeding by the appropriately rural name of Trevor. The outlook for climbing there as we have known it may be bleak. Watch this space.

· Well done Elaine Taylor for lending a climber's hand to the Whanganui Bay locals, helping to weave the tuku tuku panels for the new marae. The locals are still interested in us bring up native trees to plant too.

· This is the last Vertigo until February 2002. Readers relax, don't do it: Frankie say have a good holiday. Happy Christmas and New Year from the editorial team.

· Vertigo awaits lots of news of everyone's summer trips, large and small, for the February edition. No news is too small or too grand for us!

· As observant readers will have noticed, we now have the technology to do photos. All submissions appreciated! Please send electronically to Maria Cassidy at mc@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

Hang Dog El Cap challenge

Hang Dog are having an El Cap day with a difference - i.e. climbing El Cap but indoors - the evenings of the 10th and 11th (Evenings) December. Climb all 35 pitches over 1 or 2 nights (Salathe Wall) or East Buttress (13 pitches) for the more sane.

Options include:

A: One Night ( 6 pm until you finish) speed attempt - Monday evening.
B: Two nights (you go home overnight and sleep - great ledge biv that one!) - Monday 6 pm onwards and Tuesday 6 pm onwards.
C: The real wall rat - you have to gear haul as well!
D: The East Buttress option.

Options A, B, D have lead or top rope options (C is leading only). The indoor pitches will match (as best we can!!) the real pitches. Cost: Only $25 (for all this climbing!!!). Included is BBQ, drinks etc. (A great social time). Also for all those who have entered there is $6 entry to HangDog for the month of Nov and into December until the event.

Note also a free big wall (just the $6 entry) Big Wall gear hauling clinic on December 5th (Wednesday). Email Hang Dog, phone 589 9181 or come in for an entry form!

The electronic stuff

Remember! You can get this magazine by email and be part of the Section's discussion forum by sending emails to vertigo-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz and discussion-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz . Also, people can check out our web site www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz for instructions on how to un-subscribe if you ever need to. The national office is www.nzalpine.org.nz.

New bouldering at Welly High Wall $5 Tuesday night

This wall, in the old gym at Wellington high School at the top of Taranaki Street, will be open to Alpine Club members on Tuesdays. Call Scotty Taylor if you want to know more on 380 0913. Try the loads of new bouldering problems! Roped climbing too.

Fergs & Hangdog discount

Still $8 cheap to NZAC members. Take your NZAC card.

Editorial: Ground zero

I don't much like writing about my own climbing experiences. It isn't, I confess, due to any modesty. To be honest I have none. But would you brag, if your typical achievement was dogging up some grade 12 step ladder? No, of course not. However, there are odd and important exceptions to my self-imposed rule.

I wish to share some information on my second ground fall with readers.

I was this last weekend cruising up to the first clip on "Jerry Garcia", a very pleasant grade 16 at Paynes Ford. Some 4m above "terror" firma, I lent back on a huge jug to make the clip before heading into the crux moves. The ingrate jug turned on me and snapped. An early wake up call for Jenny Craig, you might argue. But that's by the by.

Down I tumbled. It was looking ugly. Fortunately the ground was well flattened dirt, recently softened by a freak downpour the previous day. Fortunately I kept my head and my body position was sound. But most fortunately, underlying the ground was a complex lattice work of strong, springy matai and totara roots, forming a veritable natural trampoline.

Instead of the expected dull thud, I struck the ground with a sort of elastic "sprooiiiing" which propelled me back up into the air at a high rate of knots. As I was passing the first clip on my way back upwards, I had retained sufficient presence of mind to flick in the quick draw, which I had providentially retained in my right hand, thus, to the complete astonishment of my belayer, placing myself on belay. As I continued up, inscribing a graceful parabola I had time to contemplate my fortuitous dead point target, a massive two handed jug past the crux between the first and second clips. At the very apex of my smooth arc I reached up and dynamically slapped right into the two hander. Sccchhhtiick…it holds!

The moral lesson is that sometimes you have to take falls to root climbs.

And I'm also writing into the guide book editor recommending downgrading the climb. Past the two handed jug, it was only grade 14 moves.

True story.

Trips

Tasman Saddle, Mt Cook NP. 23 November-2 December.
Pete De Joux is offering the ultimate introduction to the wonderful world of Mt Cook National Park. Flexible small trip, designed as a first-time trip to the Mt Cook region, esp. for students from AIC2001 or AIC2000. Peaks in this area include Mt Aylmer 2608m, Hochstetter Dome 2823m, Elie de Beaumont 3111m. Fly in to Tasman Saddle by ski plane. Out by ski plane, or walk if you're keen (or stupid). Climb by day; enjoy great food and company by night. (Ski-plane costs would be about $300pp). "Great opportunity to practise safe glacier travel, route finding, weather observation and to climb actual peaks in NZ's premium mountaineering region"-or combine to share flight costs…..
Contact : peter.dejoux@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 570-1777 (wk), 478-1017 (hm).


January 2002
Grand Plateau, Mt Cook NP. 5-20 January.
Harry Anderson is keen-Mt Tasman by Syme Ridge. Loose plan: warm up on Silberhorn &/or Dixon and, all going well, shimmy up Syme Ridge. "these are serious grade 3 to 4 ice climbs with short easy/moderate mixed pitches, but shouldn't be too technical. Anything goes once we've summited Tasman - it's a true Alpine playground (rock & ice) and I'm happy to work in with whatever people want to do. Anyone wanting to join me, or head down that way to climb other routes is welcome to contact me and I'll coordinate transport down and flights in etc. For those after a less serious intro to the region, there are some great climbs around Tasman Saddle region, Pioneer Hut & Hooker Valley."
Contact : ha@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or phone 04 802 4948 (hm).


January 2002
Krabi, Thailand. 5-20 January.
I'm off to Krabi, Thailand for two weeks in January 2002. I'm looking for some Kiwi company to go cragging with there. I'll be there from about the 6th, for two weeks? Cheers, Jason. Contact : xtr116398@xtra.co.nz


March 2002
Easter Gardening. 27 March-1 April 2002.
Don French is heading to the Garden of Eden from Clyde, with eyes on Mt Tyndall. Don't miss out. This is sure to be a great gnarly adventure lead by one of the great gnarly adventurers. Get in early and secure a place, Contact: don.f@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 06 377 7117.


June 2002!!
Queen's Birthday Bash, Mt. Franklin, Nelson Lakes. 1-3 June 2002.
With remarkable foresight Caroline Duggan has revealed the Place To Be for the first w/e of June 2002. We've had to advertise this far in advance to avoid disappointment. Don't miss out, Contact: cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or phone 04 475 5542 (hm).


Thanks from Phil to everyone making an effort to generate club trips. Remember, contact trips co-ordinator if you have any ideas for trips-destinations, leaders, dates, level of (in)competence, activities, queries about listed trips, or even if you'd like to help in organising trips. Nothing will be set in stone! Phil Suisted-ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0855.

Mo' boring sh*t: FMC Membership Discount Cards

These used to be mailed out to you with your Climber magazine. This has changed. They are now available for you to collect at Section Nights. If you urgently require your card and cannot attend a section night then send an email to al@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz or phone 970 0529 and we will mail your card to you.

Profit is such a dirty word (1)…

Over the years the section has built up quite a healthy "surplus" of funds. The committee is considering ideas on what to do with the money. We would appreciate hearing any ideas Wellington section members may have. Please let us know your ideas by emailing cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.

Profit is such a dirty word (2)…

Free to a good home, Boreal Ace climbing shoes, size 3.5, good condition, ph. Caroline 475 5542, cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz.