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Newsletter of the New Zealand Alpine Club, Wellington Section


NO. 637    August 2001        PO BOX 1628, WELLINGTON

Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first clear Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meet for dinner at the Backbencher at 6.30 and on to Turnbull House at 7.30 pm for a catch up. Meetings, run with an iron fist jam by El Presidente Alan Lowrie, start with precision at 8.00 pm with club business. Talks kick-off on the button at 8.01 pm.


Monday 6th August meeting: Rob's Outdoor Photography

Rob Suisted will be showing some of his top outdoor shots, including (doubtless), sweeping mountaineering vistas. You can get a glimpse, a taster if you will, on his website www.naturespic.com



Welly High Wall $5 Tuesday night

This wall, in the old gym at Wellington high School at the top of Taranaki Street, will be open to Alpine Club members on Tuesdays from 7 pm. There is bouldering, top ropes, table tennis to warm up on, crash mats, and a CD machine. Bring your own music! Welly High has a range of climbs and boulder problems from Easy to Fing hard. Some new easier routes too have been developed, around the grade 14-19 mark. Call Scotty Taylor if you want to know more on 380 0913.



Fergs discount

$8 if you produce your card. Fergs have bought an extra 300 holds and are putting up heaps of new routes! Woohoo!



Hangdog discount

Still $8 cheap to NZAC members, and lots of happenings (refer last newsletter).



Editor's Ramble

Global warming will raise sea levels by a metre in the next thirty years. Not much you may think. But no, scoffer. Millions of Bangladeshis's lives and livelihoods will be threatened. Tokelauans will need aqualungs for home visits. Catastrophe looms.

We need to act know. We need to begin fundraising. Because Baring Head will be flooded.

I've solved the how. Take a complete latex mould of Baring Head. Place a copy in the National Archives for future generations. Then cast an entire crag that can be placed in a convenient locale along the city side of the south coast. Perhaps on the fine grained sand of Lyall Bay, next to the new surf reef?

In a late night phone call, D-Vice, Wellington's latest rubber shop, have assured me "we have the technology".

And the club can offer part-casts of particular walls or problems that take people's fancy according to space and budget - Split Apple Rock perhaps, or the Overhanging Wall. Or even, for those of limited budget living in a bed sit, a favourite hold…like that great juicy jug halfway up…enough…enough…It's a real fundraising opportunity!

I call on the alpine club to display genuine leadership (for a change).



Spring Rock course dates

9 October 2001

Instructor planning evening

17 October 2001

Wall 1

24 October 2001

Wall 2

27 October 2001

Baring Head

31 October 2001

Wall 3

3 November 2001

Titahi Bay

7 November 2001

Wall 4

17 - 18 November 2001

Weekend 1

1 - 2 December 2001

Weekend 2

Contact Scott Taylor for early details. Ph home 380 0913 and leave a message. We also need instructors. Again, call Scott to express your interest…now.



New Zealand Alpine Club Photo Comp 2001

The NZAC National Photographic Competition is being organised this year by the Auckland Section. Send submissions to: NZAC Photo Competition c/o NZAC Auckland Section PO Box 3036 Auckland. The Deadline for submissions is 31st July. Entrants, mark or otherwise clearly indicate your submitted slides and mounted prints (up to A4 size) with your name, address, section & phone number, the title of the picture and the category. The six categories are: AA = Alpine Action, AG = Alpine General, AN = Alpine Nature (artistic shots; not scientific), R = Rock-climbing, H = Humour, P = Photojournalism.

Your club handbook has an appendix describing the competition rules. As well as prizes, there are awards of trophies and the fame of publication in the Climber magazine!

Photo Competition prizes have been generously provided by Fujifilm

fuji film

Judging will be performed by a panel of 3 professional photographers and climbers. Please limit entries to 3 photographs per person per category. There is one special award for the best print. Entries should be appropriately packaged for sending by mail. It is recommended that slides are sent in plastic boxes, and prints backed with firm cardboard and "Do Not Bend" on the envelopes. Entries will be returned within 2 months of the closing date. ALL EFFORT WILL BE MADE to take great care with your precious submissions. If you are unable to submit your slides for the duration of the competition, consider making professional or projection-quality duplicates either for submission or your own use while the originals are away.



Mountain safety courses

The Mountain Safety Council are running the following courses in Wellington. Outdoor First Aid - Full Course on the weekend of 27-29 July. $130; Contact Dianne Gallagher for details on 385 7162 or dianne.gallagher@paradise.net.nz



eVert:Vertigo by E-mail

Anyone (you do not even have to be a club member) can get this newsletter by email and be the first to read the news. Send an email to: vertigo-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz and you can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to vertigo-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz



Brilliant discussion forum

A forum has been set up for use by Wellington NZAC members. Please use it considerately to communicate articles of interest, trip details, and other information. Email messages to discussion@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz If you would like to subscribe to this forum, send an email to discussion-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz
You can unsubscribe at any time by sending an email to discussion-unsubscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz




Funky web-sites

Check out The New Zealand Alpine Club (National Office) web page which has lots of information, reasons to join the club, and even a form to sign up on line. www.nzalpine.org.nz. Also remember to check out our own Wellington Section web page at nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

And there is a interesting site worth checking out at www.climb.co.nz that has location guides for just about every obscure little corner of New Zealand (of the North Island at least!).



New club president

Bob McKegg has regretfully resigned from the role of National President to accept the safer role of working for an overseas aid organisation in East Timor, delivering a new health initiative. Way to go Bob, but we'll miss you! Our sturdy "VP" Chas Tanner, is taking over the reins (what are we, a horse?) while a postal vote, closing 25 July, is likely to permanently confirm Chas's appointment.



NZAC Journal - words of warning!

Warning: do not write for the NZAJ. It will not give you fame, and confers no fortune. If you really feel that you must write, whatever you do, make sure it doesn't reach the evil hands of the editor. That is a guaranteed way to gain the attentions of the one person that you should avoid at all costs. Instead, wrap it in KFC and feed it to a non-climber. Or even try selling it to Adventure magazine. Do anything but let it reach Hokitika. The deadline (to avoid of course) is August 31. The person currently posing as editor is Bruce White, last known to reside at 88 Davie Street, Hokitika, but he has been seen disguised as a climber and skulking about cliffs and mountains. Do not be fooled. This man is dangerous. Regard as spam any emails originating from wordshop@pobox.com. Destroy and do not read as it most likely will contain a virus that will lure your PC into writing egotistical claims about your climbing exploits that others may gain gratuitous pleasure from reading. Authorities are currently trying to track down this man and eliminate him. He is a megalomaniac and must be replaced. He insists that he will produce another edition, but the committee are determined to replace him as soon as possible. This has been a public service announcement. You have been warned.

Editor
New Zealand Alpine Journal
88 Davie Street
Hokitika 7900
New Zealand



Primo Ice Climbing Course on offer - rock my world! Friday 7- Sunday 9 September 2001

Well known legend in lycra Alex Palman will be running a top course on Ice Climbing to be held at Ruapehu (Tukino side) for those wanting instruction on ice climbing ranging from 'Soft As A Gauzy Blouse' through to 'Gangsta Hard Core'. Cost is approx. $100-150 including transport, accommodation and some food. There will be a Theory/Organisation evening on Tuesday 28 or Wednesday 29 August.

If you would like a place on the course contact Caroline Duggan at ph 475 5542 (home) or email cd@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz). Spaces are limited so get in quick!



Trips phil-led in

Here's a program! Great work from Phil.

August
Ski-touring. Mt. Angelus, Nelson Lakes.
Diana Munster is thinking about "possibly 9-11 Aug or 24 August (snow permitting)". Contact: diana.munster@opus.co.nz if interested.

Mt Taranaki. 17-19 August.
Phil Suisted will combine with the last weekend of the AIC and try to make the summit (maybe camping up top). Anyone interested Contact: ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0855.

Tukino, Mt. Ruapehu. 24-26 August.
Harry Anderson has offered to spearhead an assault on something-or-other at Tukino on the last weekend of August. This would be an excellent follow-up for the AIC, or a great excuse to get out and about. Ice? Contact Harry to confirm, but in case I've got it wrong, I'm sure we'll find someone to be in charge.

Harry's plug: " Snow, Snow, Snow at Ruapehu. Yes, it's cheered the hearts of all the ski bunnies out there, but snow and cold temperatures also mean great climbing conditions. A trip is being organised for the weekend of Aug 18/19. Likely destination is the Whangehu Hut above Tukino skifield and Peaks/ice within the vicinity, however the exact destination may change due to weather/snow conditions. There is plenty of superb snow and ice for climbers of all levels to play on, and the option of staying in an Aorangi Skiclub hut. Expected cost is approx $35 plus transport - shared private vehicles/minibus. There's a maximum size limit of 8 people on this trip, so 'first in, first booked'." Cheers, Harry
Contact: ha@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 802 4948.

September
Girdlestone, Mt. Ruapehu.
John Barnes is keen for a trip in September up Girdlestone (the Matterhorn of the North Island of New Zealand)-hopefully a follow-up trip for the AIC and therefore exact dates to be confirmed. Please contact John in Palmerston North. Contact: jb@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 06 357 0654.

Te Ao Whekere. Seaward Kaikoura.
Matt Stevens has offered to take us to this place. What's more, he suggested September some time. Dates and plans to be fine tuned. Contact: ms@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0913.

March 2002
Easter Gardening. 27 March-1 April 2002.
Don French is heading to the Garden of Eden from Clyde, with eyes on Mt Tyndall. Don't miss out. This is sure to be a great gnarly adventure lead by one of the great gnarly adventurers. Get in early and secure a place, Contact: don.f@xtra.co.nz, or ph: 06 377 7117.

Thanks from Phil to everyone making an effort to co-ordinate club trips. Remember, contact trips co-ordinator if you have any ideas for trips-destinations, leaders, dates, level of (in)competence, activities, queries about listed trips, or even if you'd like to help in organising trips. Phil Suisted- ps@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, or ph: 380 0855.



News: in short

· Old climbers never go gently: Former gnarly alpine climber and way cool seventies fashion victim Mark Prebble (see last Climber magazine for evidence) hits the news, for the wrong (i.e. non-climbing) reasons to do with sartorial comments regarding an eighties fashion victim (see recent Employment Court case).

· Reminds me we are over-represented in positions of power in Wellington, with Hugh Logan at DoC and the Prime Minister herself. It won't last and we must use this leverage somehow, now!

· Congratulations to Kester Brown for climbing well above his age with his 30 at the Bay. Well done! (now if only I could climb ˝ my age…)

· 18 students, 9 instructors and one assistant instructor are midway through the annual Alpine Instruction course at Tukino and Taranaki.

· Following John Palmer's inspirational Monday night talk and Air New Zealand's multi-national exploiter decision to rack up trans-Tasman airfares, Scott, Matt Downes, Matt Spittal, and Simon are off on a South Island rock road trip in early spring instead of Frog Buttress.

· Travel tip: if you want fly one way, say from Auckland to Wellington, for the absolute cheapest, make sure you ask about the return ticket prices. It is often substantially cheaper to fly return than one way. And the poor phone people at the call centres are apparently explicitly instructed not to tell us this by Air New Zealand!



For sale: climbing gear for AIC etc.

Mountain climbing gear
2 Black Prophet Ice Tools, aluminium/carbon fibre laminate - one curved handle, one straight (never used), $450 each. One spare pick for the above tools (never used), $75, 1 pair Black Diamond Switchblade crampons, small (never used), $300.

Sue Keall, 135 Townsend Road, Wellington, Ph. 3889583 (h), 4635580 (w).


Telemark ski gear for sale.
Telemark Skis ($1500 new) plus Voile Releasable Telemark Bindings ($560 new) - just $300. Skins ($200 new) - $50, Boots (size 5.5 $350 new) - $50, Supergaitors (Black Diamond "Super fit" fit up to size 6 men's boot $190 new) - $30.

All above items on display at Ski & Camp, 52 Taranaki St, Phone 801 8704.


Even more Mountain climbing gear for sale
Koflach Viva Soft Mountaineering boots, size 11 ˝ very good condition, $250, Asolo AFS10 size 8, excellent condition, $250, Grivel rigid step in crampons & Salewa step in crampons, both $125. Edelrid climbing helmet $50.

Phone Scott Taylor a/h 380 0913.



Cracker thought from Leon

"You might not be interested in climbing", wrote Leon Trotsky, "but climbing is interested in you". [apologies for the mis-quote - real quote available on request].

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