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Newsletter of the New Zealand Alpine Club, Wellington Section


NO. 666 April 2004        PO BOX 1628, WELLINGTON

Club nights are at Turnbull House, on the first unimpeded Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Usually, meet for dinner at the Backbencher public bar at 6.30 and on to Turnbull House at 7.30 pm for a catch up. Meetings and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea and coffee afterwards.

 

Section Night April 5th: AUSTIN BROOKES!

This month, Austin Brookes will talk about and show slides of the 1981 NZ Molamenqing expedition.

Not only was Molamenqing (7,703m) the highest virgin peak ever climbed by a NZ mountaineering expedition but, as Austin points out, it always will be: there are no virgin peaks left! The 1981 expedition was a shoestring climb. It is thought that the climbing party was only the 2nd group of Western climbers to be allowed into Tibet by the Chinese authorities, but before the Kiwi team could tackle Molamenqing it had to find the mountain! To do so, the expedition even had to make its own map - constructed from NASA satellite photos!

Some section members may have read Warwick Anderson's book about the expedition "To the Untouched Mountain". April's section night talk now gives all section members an unrivalled opportunity to hear the story of a small but successful expedition that is an integral part of NZ mountaineering.

Austin's talk will be preceded by the AGM of the Wellington section (details inside). This is not expected to take long and will not detract from the evening's enjoyment!

 

Mt Hooker and Mt Dechen and cloud in the Landsborough Valley

 

 

Section Nights: Upcoming: MAY, JUNE & JULY!

On Monday evening, 3 May, Neil Hickman will talk about and show slides of the Mt Hicks grade 6 ice route that he climbed in December last year together with Nick Cradock and Phil Penny.

On Monday evening, 14 June (ie: a week after the Queen's Birthday holiday), the Wellington section of Alpine Club will hold its annual photographic competition.

On Monday evening, 5 July, Neil Hickman teams up with John Rhodes for a multi media presentation on New Zealand's top ten classic peaks.!)

 

 

ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING

Want to give something more to the Alpine Club?

Would you like to be on the Club's committee?

Would you like to help the Wellington section but not be on the committee?

The Wellington section of the NZAC is on the lookout for new blood. If you answered yes to any of the above, we'd love to hear from you and/or see you at the AGM, which precedes Austin Brookes' section night talk on Monday, 5 April. Keen, enthusiastic level-headed people (if that's not an oxymoron!) are the life blood of the club, and we are especially looking for a new Trips Coordinator (our last one's just had a baby), and a new Section Night Coordinator.

As Lord Kitchener famously remarked: "The Wellington section of the NZAC needs you!"

PLEASE NOTE: THE FINANCIAL REPORT/AUDITORS REPORT WILL BE AVAILABLE AT THE AGM….

 

 

Section trips news

Please send all your fantastic trip reports to newsletter@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz, so everyone can enjoy your stories.

 

Duggan to the Darrans

During the last week of February Malcolm McGechie, Jeremy Haines and myself headed down to Homer Hut in Fiordland. We spent several days getting down there, visiting the Port Hills, Hanging Rock, and Wanaka during the day and driving at night. Our original plan was to climb the north buttress of Sabre but there was too much snow about so instead we spent a few days cragging at Chasm Crag. This is an excellent climbing location with great views and it is nice and dry in the rain, being situated under a huge overhang.

After a couple of days of sun enough snow had melted from Homer Saddle and Moir's Mate so we went and climbed the Bowen-Allan Corner, an excellent 7 pitch route up to grade 17 in difficulty, on the diamond (western) face of Moir's Mate. We unfortunately ran out of time to climb Sabre after that, so headed back to Wellington. After several recent trips to the Central Southern Alps it was a nice change to climb on the nice solid rock of the Darran Mountains!

Eric Duggan

 

More Crumbs from Nank

* Adamants. Early February evergreen Section member and San Francisco resident Rob Rowlands, Cherie Bremer-Kamp, John Nankervis and a host of nice people from the western US went into Fairy Meadow in the Adamants, Columbia Mountains, BC for a week's ski touring. The weather was mainly good, the powder deep and the food verged on the gourmet. More cols were climbed than peaks. Great views east across the Columbia to the Rockies as far north as Robson and, to the south, the impressive north face of Sir Sandford and the Rogers Pass area.

* Tukino Callout. Before Christmas Tim Stern and John Nankervis had a good day's ski touring on the Waikato and Whangaehu Glaciers marred only by having to call the AA to the top of the Tukino road late in the day .

* Bath on Barth. Late January Dave Bamford, John Ombler, Hugh Logan, John Nankervis, Barb Brown and Geoff Spearpoint went up the Ahuriri to a camp in Canyon Creek. They climbed Barth via the southern snow face in light rain. Next day in much heavier rain the announcement was made by the Minister of Conservation of the purchase of Birchwood Station by the Nature Heritage Fund . The Birchwood pastoral lease occupies the Upper Ahuriri and spills over into the Dingle Burn in the Hawea watershed.

John Nankervis

 

 

BANFF IS BACK! THE BANFF FESTIVAL OF MOUNTAIN FILMS!

"Well of course the Banff Mountain Film Festival is one of the greatest, if not THE greatest film festival on mountaineering matters in the world" -Sir Edmund Hillary

Well, if Sir Ed says so...........

Following on last year's success, the NZAC is bringing the Festival back to Wellington on Sunday 2nd May. Featuring films on climbing, skiing, mountain culture and other oddities, we guarantee you will be entertained. There will be showing a variety of short and long films, so be prepared for some adventure, humour, and adrenalin. This event sold out last year so get your tickets early.

Only 500 seats! Don't miss out!

When: Sunday 2nd May 6:30 PM

Where: Paramount Theatre, Courtney Place
Tickets: $15 available From: Mountain Designs, Mainly Tramping and Bivouac Outdoor after 6th April

Thanks also to our other sponsors Fergs Rock 'n' Kayak, Hangdog Climbing Centre, and Format Printing for helping us bring this event to Wellington.

Don't miss this opportunity: As Alpine Club members we are offering you the chance to be the first in town to get your tickets. Come to the section night on 5th April where we will be pre-selling tickets. Cash and cheques only please.

 

 

Info Wanted!

From Frank Davis
Dear Climbers. A recently discovered second cousin, born in NZ and now in CA. USA, told me of another cousin, Gillian (Jill) Gwen Tremain who was a mountaineer. She and Graeme Dingle made the first winter crossing of NZ Southern Alps and I believe she perished in an avalanche in the Himalayas (with three other women) in May 1974. Does anyone have any information, obituary, or articles on her or can aim me at anything published on her life?' Contact Frank Davis on Davisfjtn@aol.com.

From Peter Barnes:
ON THE HUNT FOR 1940s NZ ALPINE JOURNALS…..Old NZ Alpine journals are a bit thin on the ground these days, but if anyone has the 1941-1948 journals for sale or for exchange etc, or can offer advice on tracking them down, I would be appreciative (these last ones will complete a set. Thanks in advance' Pete can be contacted either via email peterbarnes@clear.net.nz or by phone (03) 471 0955 (evenings).

 

DISTAHGIL SAR FUND APPLICATIONS

This fund was set up as a memorial to Chris Hoare, Andy Boas and Steve Thornley, Wellington Section members who died on Distaghil Sar in the Karakoram in August 1996.

The fund is made up of donations from families and friends. Awards are made every year from the interest it earns. This year the total available for awards (including interest not spent last year) is in the region of $1000. The purpose of the fund is to assist members to become better qualified to instruct on our alpine courses.

Any member of the section may apply for an award. The closing date for applications this year is 3 May. Decisions about grants are made by the fund administrators (the section's chairperson, instruction committee convener and treasurer).

Applications should be in writing, and should specify the courses or qualifications for which financial assistance is sought; the need for such assistance; and the availability of the applicant to instruct on the section's snow courses.

Appropriate courses are NZAC or FMC instructor courses; NZOIA snow assessments or pre-assessments; risk assessment and outdoor first aid courses; or any other courses or qualifications that the fund administrators approve. Awards will be used to pay for expenses actually incurred, rather than given as a lump sum.

The decision about awards will take into account the applicants' climbing skills and judgement, ability to communicate with students, commitment to safety, previous contributions to the section's instruction programmes, and availability to instruct on the section's alpine courses in future. The available funding may be given to one applicant, or split between two or more. Applications should be sent to Distaghil Sar Fund, NZAC Wellington Section, PO Box 1628, Wellington BY 3 MAY 2004. Awards will be announced in the June newsletter.

 

 


CHAIRPERSON'S 8th QUIZ -

At December's section night meeting, the chairperson's quiz was in the form of a riddle: "What am I? I am a mountain ski resort, an island whose highest point is a hill 1184 feet high, a curry beloved by Welsh rock jocks, and a large coral atoll."

The answer is Christmas.

In the spirit of Christmas, there were two winners. The first correct answer to be submitted was sent in by Kevin Patterson less than an hour after the 1st of December section night meeting had finished. The second winner, Jane Furkert, was drawn from all the other correct answers sent in to the section chairman by 29 February. Kevin and Jane each received a bottle of wine as a reward for their labours.


CHAIRPERSON'S 9th QUIZ -

The March section night was held on the night of the stars, a few brief hours after the 2004 Oscars were awarded (largely to Kiwis, but we needn't boast). As a result, the chairperson drew on the stars for inspiration for his ninth quiz question, which is:

What is the tallest peak in the solar system?

Email your answers - with the words "Quiz number 9" in the subject line if you don't want your email to be destroyed as spam! - to chairperson@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz by no later than 12 noon on Sunday, 4 April 2004, to go into the draw to win a bottle of wine.

 

 

For Sale

Sportiva "Nepal Extreme" Leather Mountaineering Boots Size 41, Top of the line Leather Mountaineering Boot, Retail at $930.00. Worn once, selling for $600.00. To kind home only!
Contact Pat Deavoll, ph (03) 443 4452, email pdeavoll@hotmail.com

 

Lost and Found

Found: Sportiva Viper rock shoe. North Otago Section members found a rock shoe at Elephant Rocks near Duntroon in December. Sportiva Viper, left foot, blue upper. Contact Barry Stevens (03) 434 1535 or Nick Shearer shearer@es.co.nz?

 

And here are the club trips ....

Wellington Section Trips

Trips are a key part of the section, so if anyone has an idea about a trip, no matter how vague, come and chat to the new trips co-ordinator (trips@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz)

Trips can be of any length, any level of difficulty, and any size. Simply email us, or approach us at the monthly meeting, and we can help you get going on a safe and enjoyable trip.

See you in the hills!

Nepal

TBC

Trip type:

Overseas Expedition

Level:

Intermediate - Advanced

Organiser:

Steve Hart, email sh@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

 

Chile

TBC

Trip type:

Overseas Expedition

Level:

Intermediate - Advanced

Organiser:

Toto Gronlund, toto.high@ntl-world.com

The English alpine club are organising a trip to Patagonia in 2004.

Africa

June 2005

Trip type:

Mountaineering

Level:

Intermediate - Advanced

Organiser:

Rachael Schmidt, email rs@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Plan is to climb Mt Kenya and trek Kili.


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