Club nights are at Turnbull House, new and prospective members are welcome. Meet for dinner at the Backbencher at 6.30pm and on to Turnbull House at 7.30pm for a catch up. Meetings, run with an iron fist jam in a velvet glove by Alan Lowrie, start with precision at 8.00 with club business.

April section night: The Palman factor goes Balfour

April Section Night on Monday 2 April is well worth attending. Firstly we will be having a quick AGM (it took 20 minutes last year). Then Alex Palman is going to talk about: "Red Scorpion: A New Alpine Rock Route On Mt Drake, Balfour Glacier, Westland National Park."

In March 2000 Alex Palman and Peter Dickson established what could be the last major route on Drake. Red Scorpion - a three-star, ten pitch route, with stunning rock, overhanging headwalls and has views that have got to be seen to be believed.

The Balfour Glacier is home to some of the highest quality alpine rock climbing in NZ, across all grades - so come along and see an amazing and rarely visited part of the Southern Alps.

Copies of Balfour Rock - a guide to the routes in the Balfour (by Alex) will also be available on the night.

Following Alex's talk the club will be providing Chardonnay and cheese. Oh how civilised.

Future hot section nights for winter fun

May : We have our own JB and Elaine talking about their travels in Italy. Promo from JB: "Dollies galore. Well, Elaine and John B. actually, talking about the Dollie Mights. We've waited awhile, but they are finally going to reveal their secret about civilised climbing in Italy's Tyrol. They may even introduce us to some Italian techniques, like promenading pizzas with boccino and rocket, how to find belay points using cigarette butts, or what happens when you use a Madonna for an anchor.

June : The Annual Photo Comp is here again. Its time to dig out all your great photos. The judge this year will be Rob Suisted. Entry forms will be in next month's newsletter.

July : John Palmer talking about rock. Promo from JP: "my slide show will feature many of NZ's top rock climbing areas including Froggatt Edge, Whanganui Bay, Baring Head, Payne's Ford, Castle Hill and more."

Great Bowen street statue challenge undimmed

At the bottom of Bowen Street behind Parliament are three statues. One - "The Carrot" - awaits a first ascent. A crisp new $20 note remains on offer.

Welly High Wall Tuesday night

This wall, in the old gym at Wellington high School at the top of Taranaki Street, will be open to Alpine Club members on Tuesdays from 7 pm. There is bouldering, top ropes, table tennis to warm up on, crash mats, and a CD machine. Bring your own music! It has a range of climbs and boulder problems from Easy to Fing hard. Call Scotty Taylor if you want to know more. $5 gets you entry.

Hangdog discount

Hangdog no longer have a cheap night on the second Monday of the month but they have matched Fergs $8 discount to club members, down from $9 last year. Remember your card!

Cook controversy turns turtle: "I'm a slower tortoise - they're Onanists" claims Bahraini reader

Hello from the mountain paradise of Bahrain. Highest point above sea level 120 metres. And that is off limits.

Just received the February newsletter. Outraged to see two young whippersnappers claiming the slowest ascent of Cook! A mere 26 hours, obviously just playing with themselves.

Now I have to put my hand up here. Back in the mid '80's Stan Mulvaney and myself successfully extended our stay out on the hill to 30 hours door to door while doing the East Ridge, including a bivvy just below the summit rocks. And I am sure there must be many punters out there who can outdo that fine effort.

P.S. we had such fun Stan and I went up the Hooker a few days later and did a GT in half the time, which meant we didn't get to see the sunset from the summit again, but did mean we kept our toes warm.

Let's get the truth out there - just who holds the Cooked Tortoise record?

Epic rescues don't count.

Cheers
Stu Gray

Editor’s Ramble

I've had a great idea. At least I think it's great.

It's for a downtown bouldering park.

The problem is that it is too far to the Head from Wellington to get out for an hour or so of an evening or a lunchtime.

Take the boulders outside Te Papa for example. They're great, but too small. Imagine them - say - 4 times larger! Woohoo as they say in aerobics circles!!

Get top bouldering dudes to select the boulders and design the park. Collect lost & lonely boulders from all around the country. Some limestone, some ignibrite, some greywacke, something from Castle Hill. Wherever. Ship 'em to Wellington. Put them up in Franks Kitts Park or something.

Give them some company. Put gravel around them and trees so people can walk through them and enjoy a park. Kind of like a Zen garden on a grand scale. That's my vision.

It would be great! It would be cheap. And it would be real rock, in the middle of town.

They'd last forever. They'd be low maintenance. And most of all… they'd rock.

And don't forget, the surfers are asking for big $ for their artificial reef at Lyall Bay (good on 'em, say I). We need to think laterally.

As for Moses, he'll have to wait, next month but one, after I've expounded my next excellent idea of an artificial indoor ice-climbing wall at the Wellington Events Centre…IMBY!

Distaghil Sar Fund Applications

This fund was set up as a memorial to Chris Hoare, Andy Boas and Steve Thornley, Wellington Section members who died on Distaghil Sar in the Karakoram in August 1996.

The fund is made up of donations from families and friends. Awards are made every year from the interest it earns. This year the total available for awards (including interest not spent last year) is in the region of $1000. The purpose of the fund is to assist members to become better qualified to instruct on our alpine courses.

Any member of the section may apply for an award. The closing date for applications this year is 1 May. Decisions about grants are made by the fund administrators (the section's chairperson, instruction committee convener and treasurer).

Applications should be in writing, and should specify the courses or qualifications for which financial assistance is sought; the need for such assistance; and the availability of the applicant to instruct on the section's snow courses.

Appropriate courses are NZAC or FMC instructor courses; NZOIA snow assessments or pre-assessments; risk assessment and outdoor first aid courses; or any other courses or qualifications that the fund administrators approve. Awards will be used to pay for expenses actually incurred, rather than given as a lump sum.

The decision about awards will take into account the applicants' climbing skills and judgement, ability to communicate with students, commitment to safety, previous contributions to the section's instruction programmes, and availability to instruct on the section's alpine courses in future. The available funding may be given to one applicant, or split between two or more.

Applications should be sent to Distaghil Sar Fund, NZAC Wellington Section, PO Box 1628, Wellington BY 1 MAY 2001. Awards will be announced at the May section night, and in the June newsletter.

Alpine Instruction Course 2001

Our very popular AIC will run again this year. The course includes theory and practical sessions on avalanche Awareness. The cost of the course is $680. This covers instruction (2:1 student/instructor ratio), accommodation, food and transport for three weekends away on Ruapehu and Taranaki, and includes three evening sessions in Wellington.

If you want a place on the course contact Ric Cullinane (04) 292 8350 (home) or (04) 496 0294 (work), or 025 443 651 (mobile), or email at rcullinane@hq.af.mil.nz or sharandric@paradise.net.nz as soon as possible. There are 20 places, but they normally fill up very quickly.

Please also contact Ric if you would like to instruct or come along as an assistant instructor and are available for these dates.

Wanna be all powerful?

This is a notice requesting nominations or offers to join this year's exciting new committee, people can contact all powerful Al or just turn up at the AGM.

An advance notice for Spring Rock dates:

Newsy contributions from folks

I'll soon be setting sail on the next leg of "ESPRIT's" circumnavigation, and would like to thank the folks in the NZAC-Wellington Section for their enthusiastic support and encouragement during my preparation for climbs of Mt Cook and Mt Aspiring. Summiting the two mountains, attending AIC-2000, and, most importantly, the associations with NZAC members were highlights of my visit to New Zealand. After sailing "ESPRIT" to Australia, I will be making climbs in N&S America and Antarctica; so hope to share the hills with some of you again. Many thanks and good climbing.

Who said you couldn't relate climbing to life in general? Please note the following (taken from one of the climbing guides in Thailand):

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF CLIMBING?
B A L A N C E
Also the most important aspect of living,
as a way of focusing your attention,
naturally every part of living is important !
But WITHOUT balance in your life nothing else will work.

Makes perfect sense doesn't it?

In January; Terry Crippen, Richard Lovell, Nigel Green, Pat Holland, Conway Powell, and Barry Scott headed into the Olivines for 11 days. This multi-sectioned party (Wgtn, CNI, Otago, with PNTMC extra), with ages ranging from 30 to 57, spent a few days on the Ice Plateau camping at Forgotten River Col, and had relaxing climbs of Destiny, Little Ark and Intervention. Going in via the Beans Burn we decided against the hairy O'Leary Pass route out after viewing the bluffs above the Joe, so exited via Hidden Falls and the Rock Burn.

Also in January another multi-sectioned party (Wgtn, Taranaki, plus PNTMC) consisting of Terry, Nigel Scott and Peter Wiles, spent ten days in the Goodly having the place to ourselves. From an excellent camp well up the Goodly moraine, we climbed Malts and Dennison before retreating, ahead of the weather, via the high route to the comforts of Goodly Hut. We later spent the rest of the trip camped up the McKinnon. We climbing Forbes and had an attempt on Sibbald, but were turned back by deteriorating weather and the unexpected gut just before the summit.

Simon, Scott, Derek and the Spit-dude went to Arapiles for two weeks, and Fleur Ascent came along for one week. We dined like kings on yabby (Oz fresh water crayfish, which we trapped in a wild Ned Kelly style shoot out in a local dam) pizza. Scotty cooked up a perfect storm and performed some great leads. Derek had a top time. He managed to have us in stitches with a pungent description of exactly how dry he was after climbing "Muldoon" 42m grade 13, which was unwittingly overheard by a neighbouring female climber, much to his embarrassment, and his several demonstrations to Fleur of how to properly coil a rope. Fleur completed her scary first multi-pitches with panache and proved very successful in removing gear (as well as coiling rope). The Spit-dude came along nicely, finishing the trip with his first real lead on natural gear, the lovely line of Exodus, 35m grade 6.

We climbed like peasants on a whole bunch of rock from grade 3 to grade 22, not just at Arapiles but at Mt Difficult and Black Ian's Rock (top spot), both in the Grampians. Hot climbs included "Brolga", 100m, grade 16 done between showers, "Hot Flap" 170m grade 14, and being stretched on "the Rack", a classic grade 18 jam crack. We stayed resplendent in the rustic surrounds of Quamby Lodge in Natimuk, enjoying the genial company of proprietors Tim and Lee, Tiddles the Cat, and Dog the dog. The Rooster, Roger, who started up about 4 am every morning, was less well appreciated by the crew.

Hard working members of the Palmy sub section (JB and Bruce Van Brunt) climbed the north ridge of Sefton in early February. Work.

Climbing gear wanted!!!

Plastic boots wanted

Help me find a pair of plastic boots! My size would be 10 or 10 & 1/2. If you know of anyone wishing to off load a pair could you put them in contact with me. And if you don't, then could you please put the word out for me. I am able to be contacted on 06) 8447856 or 06) 8310106 ext. 883 or via email at Muppet@paradise.net.nz.

Yours hopefully

Garry Kane.

Wanted. Set of wires, preferably "Wild Country." Addresses: john.barnes@dia.govt.nz or phone 063570654 evenings.

Thanks.

John Barnes.

Koflach Vivas, Ultrasofts, or similar, that can be blown out to accommodate odd-shaped feet. Size 43-44. Contact Brian Smith, (04) 475 8849 or smithcbrian@hotmail.com.

Brian Smith.

e-Vertigo reminder

If you wish to receive Vertigo by email, please send an email to vertigo-subscribe@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz. It can be viewed on the web at nzalpine.wellington.net.nz

Trips: This club needs you!!!

If you truly do think you have the nous. To lead at trip to your favourite mountain for some less experienced but keen and eager people. Who want to get out and about into the snow and rock and ice. Especially if it is a weekend or long weekend sort of jaunt. You! You are enjoined to contact our trips person. Or the inter-acting all powerful chair personage.

Rock climb through winter!

Note this one from the Climber mag.

Winter often brings the best rock-climbing conditions. Oh yes! Cold temperatures increase the stickiness of rock-shoe rubber. And the cold makes skin harder and drier, improving friction too. The cold also kills the crowds.

Stealth C4 rubber is at its stickiest on rock at about 10 degrees centigrade. Brrrhhouldering at Baring Head or Castle Hill is the obvious pursuit for such chilly days.

Make sure that you take warm clothes, do a big warm up, and keep warm with hot drinks, frequent nips of Cognac or Armagnac and squares of bitter dark chocolate (goes nicely with Cognac).

Ending thought for a passing summer

"Glory is fleeting", said Napoleon Bonaparte, "but obscurity is forever".