Finding Mount Doom - A New Zealand Alpine Club trip to complete
the Tongariro crossing and climb Ngauruhoe in September 2005.
Just as sleep was becoming a really good place to be we were woken
by the six o’clock alarm. A quick look outside and blue skies!
The feeling of anticipation of quality time with the hills and snow
helped to push sleep away. Up and faffing around with stuff sacks
and getting a seemingly impossible amount of gear into a very small
pack kept us occupied until breakfast. At Eivins café, a
solid feast of bacon, egg, toast, tea and general banter as everyone’s
metabolisms kick into action and thoughts become focused on the
day ahead.
Arriving at the Mangatepopo car park we get our first sight Ngauruhoe
– ancient Maori warrior god, and more recently the film set
for Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings. It sends a buzz of excitement
through the blood – the white sloping cone framed against a
pure blue sky, the snow cover complete and pristine, shining in
the morning sun. A light mist drifts in adding a sense of mystery,
obscuring the objective for the moment and focusing the attention
back to the immediate tasks of small adjustments to packs and clothing,
applying sun cream and donning sunglasses, putting away the gore-text
and woolly hats.
About 1km in and we arrive at the first real work of the day, to
rise from the valley floor up to the plateau below the volcano there
is a steepish, rocky path through about 300m of vertical height
to a saddle. Here the full weight of the packs becomes apparent
and the body begins to feel the exertions of gaining height. The
surroundings become increasingly barren and slowly more snow appears,
along with fantastic fingers of ice, a strange flora adorning the
rocks.
The top of the saddle is reached and we are on the plateau. Instantly
the lactic burn of the walk is forgotten. The crisp fresh air and
the incredible landscape before gulped down by both body and spirit
with equal abandon. The sky is clear and the sun is gleaming on
the snow that now surrounds us. Looking up to the right, the majestic,
geometric shape of the cone towers over us. Small wisps of hot vapours
seeping from the upper reaches give a sense that the mountain is
truly alive. The panorama continues around left across a broad expanse
of snow with a ridge on the skyline, the Tongariro track leading
off towards it in front of us. To the left a classic pointy peak
with rocks peeking through a coat of snow. Back down the valley
behind us the drop in height and transition from bare black rock
to the green of the lower slopes descending into the distance.
This is what we came here for, all effort of the journey immediately
rewarded and replaced by the sense of joy and play! It is impossible
not to grin stupidly.
Setting down our heavier possessions we prepare for the days main
objective, the crater-top of Ngauruhoe (2287m) and 600m of vertical
height from our current position. There is no route as such, just
“up” the continuous white slope. To begin with the relief
of carrying half as much gear produces a faster and relaxing pace
but as the slope becomes steeper after about 100m the slog begins.
Slowly moving ever upwards in zigzags, the breathing becomes harder
and the top of the thighs burn for more oxygen supply.
It is relentless but technically easy going, maintaining the focus
on each step and pausing once in a while to allow life back to the
muscles. Slowly the plateau recedes below us, and the summit approaches.
Stopping to catch breath the vista below is allowed to envelope
the senses and then its back to the repetitive work of muscle pushing
against gravity.
About 60m of scree and then rime ice and lots of it – crunching
and cracking in small slabs underfoot. Nearing the top there is
a small valley that leads into the crater – a spectacular sight
with a column of rock completely encrusted in ice on the opposite
side. There is a fine resting point up and to the left where the
rocks are exposed and a plume of steam floats into the sky. This
affords not only a splendid view back down the route but the unexpected
joy of a warm seat where the rocks are geo-thermally heated! Members
of another party with whom we are sharing the climb are already
ensconced. It is a fine place to relax in the sun, eat chocolate,
shelter from the wind and make new friends. We are at the top, the
first of the great 100 peaks for some of us, and a good mornings
work.
Initially it seemed like the descent would be a similar trudge
endlessly downhill until we arrived just below the scree and realised
that the rest of the long slope was covered in thick snow with the
perfect consistency for bum sliding! Starting tentatively at first
we were soon swooshing and whooping downhill recalling the youthful
excitement of sledging and generally having utter delight in the
snow. We were as children playing on the lap of the great old warrior
who (for the moment at least) was patiently allowing our antics.
In this manner we made a descent of a fantastic 400m in about 10
minutes – it is definitely travelling first class on the mountain!
To obtain the central crater and our campsite for the evening we
first had to pass over a ridge approximately 200m in height to the
high point of the crossing. After the climb of the volcano and now
with a full load this was hard work and as we climbed the wind buffeted
at us – a subtle reminder that although currently a fine day,
safety in this environment is never to be taken for granted.
About halfway up the ridge we encountered a strangely clad party
of around 15 German youths. They had been walking for 4 hours and
still had at least that much to go and it was already around 15h00.
What made them strangely clad (relative to ourselves) was the apparent
lack of any kind of clothing or equipment suited for this terrain.
Their gear consisted of trainers, jeans, the odd hooded top and
jacket and the occasional school day pack. It seemed as if they
had taken a wrong turn off Courtney Place to find themselves halfway
up a mountain! Slipping and sliding down past us toward the increasingly
steep descent, they seemed in reasonable spirits but there was also
a touch of false bravado in their demeanour that suggested that
they might be eying our heavy packs, alpine boots, walking axes
and crampons with a certain amount of envy.
Once at the top of the ridge we could gaze down across the crater
lakes almost frozen and beyond them the plains below on the other
side of the crossing. To our left we could now look down into the
central crater – an impressive circle of ridgeline and minor
peaks with a small rocky outcrop slightly to the left of centre.
This was to be our campsite for the night.
Setting up the tent for the first time (for some of us) in the
snow was an experience, thankfully gained in perfect evening conditions
sheltered from the wind on the tops and with good snow. Digging
a trench, fixing snow stakes and ice axes to the corners and finally
burying pegs in a kind of mini t-slot for the guys. Pretty soon
we were eating hot food and watching the skyline for 360 degrees
becoming a variety of subtle pinks yellows and reds as the sun left
us to fend for ourselves.
Because of the surrounding ridge, the night was totally dark, no
light pollution and masses of stars – so peaceful with no sounds
except the wind – no birds or trees or bushes. Pristine.
The next day saw us cleaning camp and setting off down into the
bush, stopping at the Ketetahi hut for a delicious breakfast of
baked beans in the sun en route. We made the end of the track in
good time, arriving with tired feet but happy.
What else might I have done this weekend? Stayed at home? Relaxed?
Watched some DVDs? Instead we worked hard to get to an incredible
place and have one more “DVD” of our own to add to the
collection stored in our hearts and minds.
Thanks to Garth for suggesting this trip and being enthusiastic
about the merits of this great route – as he says there cannot
be many places of such wildness and beauty in the world that are
so easily accessible!
Jim Barritt
On the trip were Garth London (Organiser), Angie London, Hayden
Cox, Derek Mihotich and Jim Barritt.
Wellington, October 13, 2005
Camp Near Central Crater
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