Ruapehu Alpine Style - August 2003

Story by David Eaton, Photos by Tom Zink and David Eaton

A few months back I was reading this great publication and noted that Mike Peat was running a trip to traverse around parts of Ruapehu and camp out in a reasonably remote part of the mountain. Not having been to the top and always keen for an adventure to parts unknown I promptly contacted Mike.

The weekend of the 29th -31st of August arrived with four of us heading towards Taihape for a mouth watering banquette. It was the first time I had meet Mike, Tom Zink and Nigel Roberts, so we had a chatty journey. It transpired that most of Taihape knew Mike. People would come out of shop doorways to say, hi. Once Mike explained that he had lived there for a number of years we realised we weren't travelling with royalty.

The plan was to camp the night beside the vehicle at Mike's special campsite deep in Karioi Forest. We were to pair up to rationalise gear, and as I was talking to Nigel about tent sites I teamed up with him. There had been a bit of rain about but the evening cleared up with just a little morning mist to hurry us along at daybreak. Weather wise the week had not been great but the forecast was for clearing skies from the south with winds dying away.

After a short drive Mike parked his 4X4 Jeep in a very private car park and we shouldered our packs for the estimated five hour walk to a campsite somewhere on or near the Wahianoa Glacier. It had been snowing over night higher up but initially we plodded up through scree and tussock with fingers of cloud obscuring most of the view.

It was quite neat, for as we moved along we where always in our own little clear patch surrounded by cloud. Under foot conditions were excellent as we continued on to an early lunch stop at around 1850 metres. The break was very relaxing in the sun with Girdlestone showing through a veil of mist ahead of us.

Onwards and upwards we went with a couple of bodies feeling a little weary as we crested a ridge and traversed across towards the Wahiona Glacier. At this point visibilty deserted us. A short conference had us agreeing that we'd camp on the next suitable bench, which as it turned out was pretty much where we wanted to be anyway at 2200 metres. I think the time was around 1pm. So it was out with the shovel, a bit of contouring for the tents and a welcome hot drink. By this time the sun was out again with Tahurangi still hidden from view.

With tents up and after kicking back for a while it was decided that we should get a move on and head off towards the top. Travelling now with minimal gear the legs and shoulders were a lot happier. All along I had been marking waypoints on my GPS as navigating in some of these areas in a whiteout can be a little challenging at times. It is a great back up, if only to confirm your current position.

As we neared the summit ridge the soft snow increased to knee depth. Pushing on we hit the top at 5.30 pm and were rewarded with a clearance. With the sun setting it was a fantastic view and for Nigel, Tom and myself one to remember as our first time up there.

With light fading fast we made a rapid decent back to camp with torches struggling to show the path through falling snow. No sitting around outside to enjoy the evening as planned. With snow melted and pasta cooked it was into bed. Nigel was snug and cosy in his pit when I made my final visit outside, only to report that it was a clear sky with Mars beaming down on us. Nigel was keen to see it and bravely reappeared outside. The temperature was around minus 5.

Sunday was a perfect day with us all a little slow after the previous days walking. With breakfast out of the way Nigel decided to relax and enjoy the surroundings near camp. Meanwhile Mike, Tom and I would go around the south face of Girdlestone, pop up to the top and descend to the north via a saddle east of the Mangaehuehu Glacier and back to camp for lunch.

After about an hour it was on with the crampons and a steady procession up. Mike did most of the leading (I think he could do it blindfolded backwards if he had too). Tom was at times on the edge of his comfort zone and did really well. I think his confidence got a real boost. Until we got near the top we had been in the shade most of the time, with conditions really pleasant.

Time for a few photos and before you knew it we were dropping down to the N.E. By now things had warmed up a lot with some care required. As I came out of a gut Mike had watched an avalanche come off to our right. A quick discussion on the best route to follow and Mike was off, once in the safe zone Tom followed as a piece of sastrugi crashed onto my helmet.

A quick run had me with the others and in no time we were back at camp. As we meandered our way back down the mountain we had time to reflect on a great weekend well planned by Mike. We were able to meet others in the club and share experiences while achieving some personal milestones. Mike hopes to run a trip up Ringatoto (Mitre) next year. I for one am keen.

See also report in November 2003 Vertigo Newsletter, by Mike Peat - click here